What is something I can use to add weight to my locomotive?
I went to the local tire store and asked one of the guys for some used tire balancing weights. I used double sided tape rated for outdoor use (the gray stuff) to hold them in place. Not elegant, but it works.
You just have to be careful that you don’t overload your gears.
I am aware of the concern regarding too much weight. I have used some fishing weights in the boiler but I still would think I can use a little bit more weight without hurting the gears!
If you have a local hobby shop that deals in R/C planes they should have some adhesive back lead weights.
I bought some for one of my flat cars that had a problem staying on the track because it was too light weight, stuck a few on the bottom and problem solved.
I think the maker was great planes.
I bought a bag of buck shot at the local gun/sporting goods store. I fill whatever space I need to fill with the buckshot, and then pour in some Tightbond.Once the Tightbond dries, I have a weight that fills and conforms to whatever space I need it to.
If its a steamer, then you want the weight pretty close to centered over the drivers.
David said
“I bought a bag of buck shot at the local gun/sporting goods store. I fill whatever space I need to fill with the buckshot, and then pour in some Tightbond.Once the Tightbond dries, I have a weight that fills and conforms to whatever space I need it to.”
May I inject a note of caution ?
Care must be taken with this method , I have seen drastic damage over time to beautifully modelled aircraft when the apparently innocuous glue/filler has attacked the plastic .The problem is , it’s insidious , so , difficult to spot . When you do spot it , it’s too late .
Steve’s caution about the weight on gears also applies to model aircraft ; weights sufficient to hole the nose down on tricycle undercarriages lends itself to bent U/C legs .
Ain’t modelling fun?
I have successfully used “BluTak” or even “White Tack” in small quantities to hold weights , but frankly , I prefer screws to retain the ballast weight .
The problem with any glues/fillers in large quantities in enclosed spaces in particular is that they carry on “gassing off” (rather like my posts here) for quite some time .
Be careful out there .
Mike Brit
Mike that is why I use Titebond. Its a wood glue. One could also use while glue (Elmer’s). That way the glue will not attack the plastic.
David ,
Titebond is a Trading name here , and “Titebond” can be found written on anything from Balsa Cement to Instant Glues .
Hence the note of caution .
Mike Brit
Joe Zullo said:
I use white PVA glue for modelling .
Its main use for me is holding windows in because a minor over-application is pretty well invisible when dry .
Stuff marketed as canopy glue is actually white PVA in many cases .
But given the time it takes for your pride and joy to get droopy , I would not even use PVA .
I am still referring to model application .
We have modelling clay in the UK called Plastiscene , that was the first stuff I used for holding weights and it wrinkled the fuselage over time .
I have on my desk right now a Plastic bottle with “De Luxe Materials"written on , followed by"LIQUID GRAVITY” . The bottle contains fine round shot ,
Instructions say—
“Pour into cavities on railway rolling stock , boats and planes . Fix with Deluxe Materials RocketCyano , Rocket Card Glue or Speed Epoxy …”
Note that they do not specify depth maximum .
I add weight by forming aluminium foil into the shape of the compartment to be filled , then fill it with ballast weight , Liquid Gravity or Lead Shot , seal it up and forget it . It can also then be easily removed if you need access later .
No need for risky glues then , eh ?
If you have rolling stock with square tubular spines and can access the end of the tube , pour your shot in that and seal the ends up .
If the tube has no open end , drill a hole at a convenient place and pour your shot in , then bung up the hole you have vandalised your model with .
Mike Brit
PS Plastic bags can also attack plastic , even the plastic foam packing so loved by packers of
models in boxes can attack the surfaces . So my models are not stored in boxes .
I put lead shot in a fuel tank and added some titebond to hold it in place.
Over time, it absorbed moisture and “grew”, i.e. expanded. Not terrible but enough to spread the sides of the fuel tank a bit.
I think I’ll put the shot in a plastic sack or mechanically restrain it next time.
Greg
Haven’t had any problems with the double sided tape, yet. Its been four years.
I’ve used old tire weights as a source of lead weight for years. But I make a crude mold for whatever
Shape i want then melt the wheel weights and cast the weight that fits in place nicely. Attachment is
easy as the weight can be drilled and tapped and mechanically secured.
Tried the double sided tape Steve, it was a real bitch to stick to each piece of lead shot! Oh, was I doing it wrong?
Harder and harder to find lead, and at a good price nowadays.
Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
Tried the double sided tape Steve, it was a real bitch to stick to each piece of lead shot! Oh, was I doing it wrong?
Harder and harder to find lead, and at a good price nowadays.
Well, I expect that your tongue was firmly planted in your cheek, as I think you have a sense of humor. You use the outdoor rated double sided tape to hold the shot filled fuel tank that you spoke of in place. That might not be an elegant solution, but it is efficient. Put tape under the tanks, stick it in place, then run another piece up and over the top of the tank , firmly attaching it to the locomotive. Mine has been in place for four years, still holding strong, except I used tire balancing weights.
If you really are mad keen on your precious stock not falling about , you could take the cheap option and try the Brawa Mine Sets .
Trains are held down by magnets and it is possible to stand your baseboard on its side or even on the ceiling upside down .
You lose slightly by the scale being H0 on Z Gauge track . Damn good fun though .
We’re in the process of adding a mine to our BEMO layout . It will have to stay flat of course because BEMO uses gravity . Unless I can get a lot of magnets as loads . Hmmm .
Mad Mike Brit
Yes, tongue was applied to cheek with lots of duct tape!!!
After my experiences with lead shot, I think I will look for more sources of chunks of lead.
I also noticed that lead shot takes quite a bit more volume than solid lead for the same weight, which, I guess, should not be surprising when I think about it.
I did not have trouble holding the tank, just wanted to control the lead shot. Thinking more, I guess I could have put it in a baggie, but my goal was 6 pounds, so it nearly filled the Aristo E8 tank.
I’m going to remove it and put in lead bars.
(a note of caution: be REAL careful not to strip your fuel tank screws, they were never designed to hold 6 pounds of lead… don’t ask me how I know!)
Greg
Looks like you’re cooking frog spawn there Greg .
Let us know what it tasted like .
Mike Brit
John Ramsden said:
I’ve used old tire weights as a source of lead weight for years. But I make a crude mold for whatever Shape i want then melt the wheel weights and cast the weight that fits in place nicely. Attachment is easy as the weight can be drilled and tapped and mechanically secured.
I like John’s idea of melting the old tire weights, which can be had for nothing, but have been warned by my son-in-law, who works in the tire industry, that they are a lead alloy, even more hazardous than just lead, so do the melting and pouring outside, and wear an appropriate mask. He didn’t say what that might be.