Large Scale Central

Extra Weight for my Locomotive

Problem Solving
#21

I have used both the tire weights and bird shot, I prefer the tire weights, the self adhesive tape is permanent, the only issues can be they have to be applied somewhere the tape can adhere to and where you can place the weights, easier said than done in tight quarters, this is best when only a few oz of weight are needed as the strips come in breakable segments of twelve 1/2-oz pieces or eight 1-oz segments. This is the easiest and fastest way go get extra traction out of a light engine.

The bird shot method is a great way to pack alot of weight or get it into small nooks and crannies where the tire weights dont fit, but it can be very messy. I used bird shot mixed w/ epoxy to weight the boilers of some bashes. Best method was to permanently seal the back of the area to be filled, add the shot then pour the epoxy is over the top, the epoxy usually seeps down in between the shot so when it cures you get a good solid block of weight. I tried using regular glue like Elmers or Titebond but found that it could take DAYS for it to dry completely. I prefer the instant results with epoxy.

PS dont ever try to use CA (super glue like Zap-Gap or sim.) in lieu of epoxy, I did but was so fumed out I was sure my eyelids were going to be sealed shut…and over time eventually the adhesive failed and little birdshot balls could be heard tickling out of the boiler and onto the layout like a miniature gumball machine.

#22

Doesn’t Epoxy get quite warm while curing? Could be an issue with plastic.

I picked up some huge 5# lead fishing weights at a flea market, Figured I could cut them down to fit when I need weight. Haven’t used them yet.

#23

Jon Radder said:

Doesn’t Epoxy get quite warm while curing? Could be an issue with plastic.

I picked up some huge 5# lead fishing weights at a flea market, Figured I could cut them down to fit when I need weight. Haven’t used them yet.

Epoxy cures by Exothermic Reaction .

That means it gets hot .

Plastic and heat do not make good companions .

Remember , you cannot see the effect until it happens . Too late then , innit? .

Like I mentioned before , shape some aluminium foil into the space you want filled , leaving a large overhang all round . Bung your lead in . Fold excess aluminium over lead to encase it .

Seal aluminium bag so formed with tape like wot Steve said .

Years down the line , praise your foresight when you need to take it out for access . Doddle .

My experience so far has not led to the production of an electric cell from dissimilar metals .

Mad Mike Brit

PS No animals were harmed in making this common sense advert .

PPS LGB stuff is supplied with weights fitted . Cast or moulded and then screwed . Or not , if it’s

a good fit .

#24

Actually epoxy cures by a catalytic reaction, and it so happens this process is mildly exothermic. (of course different versions will give off more or less heat).

Clearly in something thick, it’s harder to get rid of the heat.

Good idea on the aluminum bag, although it’s hard to get aluminum foil to match the sharp corners without tearing… I tried it…

But I think I can get somewhat heavier gauge, or make the ends of aluminum duct tape.

Thanks for the idea.

Greg

#25

I’ve always used JB Qwik Weld, heats never been an issue with it.

#26

Greg , over here they sell three (at least) grades of foil , not unnaturally , thin , medium and

thick (like me). They also get graded as heavy , etc… You need the stuff that wraps turkey .

The thin definitely is not man enough , the thick is OK , and I have found that if you have an awkward shape to fill , for example a round shape , try forming it over a round object ----rather like doing the foil over a wine bottle . If you’re really posh , a champagne bottle . Then gently fiddle it into place making sure there’s enough over to wrap it . The thing is to try getting the rough shape before you bung it in the hole .

Aluminium shim sheet works ok , but you need to work somewhere where you can steal it . Oh , sorry , Borrow for research purposes .

Vic , I have no experience of JB Quick Weld , so cannot comment . But I am sure others reading this will be glad of being pointed in the right direction .

Mike Brit

PS I had another senior moment over Exothermic . I was so pleased at being able to spell it

that I got carried away .(ideal place for someone to say I should be . Carried away.)

#27

Yup they get a bit stinky when heated, but i do it out side the garage. Made a bunch of center beams for crude log cars that worked ok. Just need to get time finish them. Not AMS quality or appearance, but will pass the ten foot rule and make a nice long log train for cheap.

#28

Mike, JB Weld is an epoxy based patching compound. Used to be just one type, but I think there are more versions now. The original stuff had bits of metal in it and could be machined, and was even used to patch cracks in engine blocks or heads.

Greg

#29

I used JB weld to make frogs on my HO/HOn30 gauge separation tracks. Before it sets fully hard it is easy to carve. Once it sets fully hard, not so much.

#30

When I used the flat sticky weights, I placed them in my vise first to make a stamped pattern on the lead. When placed on an engines running board it looks like a non slip surface.

#31

Greg , thanks for that , I shall have to look for it over here .

David , interesting use and the tip about carving worth following up .

Good place for learning , LSC .

Mike Brit

#32

Well I just used the aluminum foil and lined my RS3 fuel tank and poured in my shot then added Gorilla glue and I was done. No hassle. Later RJD

#33

Watch that over time, it does not absorb moisture are swell the sides of the fuel tank, it happened to me on my 3 e8’s and I KNOW you have more humidity than I do ha ha!

Greg

#34

I use pieces of lead from old water main joints. I pound it into the shape I want , and then run a srew up thru the bottem of the fuel tank into the lead!

#35

Large amounts of epoxy cures with a great deal of heat. It can get metal so hot you couldn’t hold it. It also puts off a great amount of fumes, that will run you out. Enjoy, but be careful.

#36

Ric, no one mentioned epoxy yet, but it’s a good warning. The reason I used titebond III was that it would take a while to cure, so clearly (at least to me) it was not putting off a lot of heat.

Took quite a while to cure, but I’m disappointed in the “growth” of it, and all I can attribute it to is the uptake of moisture.

Regards, Greg

#37

I’ve mixed lead shot with Bondo. Because it’s a puttty, you can stuff it into places and not worry about it running out.

Later,

K

#38

Kevin Strong said:

I’ve mixed lead shot with Bondo. Because it’s a puttty, you can stuff it into places and not worry about it running out.

Later,

K

Brilliant! Why didn’t I think of that?

#39

Does bondo heat when used in a large quantity? Does it expand?

If you don’t know, check this out: http://www.roadsters.com/filler/

I’d say since it cures as an exothermic process, it is unacceptable if you have something that heat can damage, like a plastic fuel tank.

That is why I used something that cures without heat.

Greg

p.s. As I have often said, what I might do for myself and what I put up as a public recommendation is often different, when I recommend something in a public forum, I try to make the recommendation as bulletproof as possible, so Kevin, please don’t come back with a long-winded diatribe about how you have never had a problem, etc.

#40

I won’t be long-winded. It works for me, and I’ll continue to use it and suggest others do the same. They’re welcome to read your warnings in conjunction with my suggestions, then make the decision for themselves whether it’s appropriate to their particular situation.

Later,

K