Large Scale Central

ET&WNC Hopper

Modeling
#81

Thanks. I’ve started gluing the slope sheets in place.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/Hopper/ETWNC/IMG_9951.JPG)

I will be putting in some 1/8" angle pieces along the edges. The doors are put in from the bottom. I left a bit of a ledge to allow them to be glued in place.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/Hopper/ETWNC/IMG_9957.JPG)

Of course the typical view will be from above. Here are the doors in place. I still need to put in the rods and chains.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/Hopper/ETWNC/IMG_9959.JPG)

#82

Really sharp Bruce.

#83

I love the color of the wood. Is that just India Ink & Alcohol stain? In some shots it looks like there is a little green in it, but that could just be the camera or the light.

#84

Yep, just India Ink and Alcohol. I probably need to shoot it outside - there’s no green that I can see.

#85

True craftsmanship! Those are beautiful cars.

Technical question–well, quasi-technical, anyway: What do you do with all your jigs and fixtures when you’re done with a project? Do you toss 'em out or are you stuck with the ghosts of projects past cluttering up your shop forever, on the off chance you “might build some more someday?” (I never have the heart to toss mine…)

Steve

#86

Thanks. I don’t think I’ve ever thrown away a jig, but then this is the first time I’ve ever used them to make cars. I have ones for grab irons, stirrup steps, and other parts, but I re-use them quite often. I will probably keep the jigs for the hopper…you just never know! :wink:

#87

I keep all the jigs, plans, photos, CAD drawings and interesting notes I made along the way…just like a real railroad shop…errrrr waitaminnit, aint we all really real railroad shops?

#88

Sounds familiar - I have a 2 drawer filing cabinet in my workshop that holds plans, drawings, photos and any relevant back issues of some magazines. I also use it to store my decals and manuals. I started putting in the angle today. It’s 1/8" styrene. I pre-drill the holes in the styrene, then I drill again after they are glued in place to allow for placement of the pins. The pins are all cut to less than 1/8" length before I glue them in place.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/Hopper/ETWNC/IMG_9967.JPG)

I needed to drill through the sides, but my little Micro-Lux drill is too big and I couldn’t fit my pin vise in. So, I cut my pin vise in half and used that to drill through the sides. On the inside, I put my pins and I’ll put the nut castings from Grandt line on the outside - as soon as I get more.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/Hopper/ETWNC/IMG_9966.JPG)

#89

You really do pay attention to detail, Bruce…impressive!

Q: Are the pins somehow structural? Do you need to drill all the way through, our could you add the pin heads before gluing the angle in place? Then locate the nut castings on the bottom by using a “story stick,” e.g. another strip of drilled angle, as a position reference?

Or is it just easier to drill all those holes? Just wondering.

Steve

#90

You need to buy these, Bruce:

http://www.micromark.com/SearchResult.aspx?deptIdFilter=0&searchPhrase=finger+drills

Every set.

#91

I guess they are semi structural. They do help to hold the angle in place; at least I think they do. :wink:

Hadn’t thought about the story stick idea. I do need to drill holes on the outside for the nut/bolt castings, so I just thought I might as well drill all the way through. Though it would sure be easier to drill from the outside.

For the slope sheet pins I think it’s probably easier to drill the holes in the angle, glue it in place and drill again. Otherwise I’d have to drill the angle, put in the pin, clip it and then file it down so it didn’t stick out at all.

#92
Bob McCown said:
You need to buy these, Bruce:

http://www.micromark.com/SearchResult.aspx?deptIdFilter=0&searchPhrase=finger+drills

Every set.


Or, I can use my own homemade tool for free! :smiley: :smiley: :smiley:

Dang, those are expensive!

#93

Yea, no kidding. I have some knock-off ones I got at a show ages ago, but I didnt spend $12 for 4 of them, thats for sure!

#94

and you’d probably need the missing #s in the sets.:slight_smile: Great detail Bruce

#95

I am simply amazed at your attention to the smallest detail, even the ones that won’t be seen. remarkable!!!

#96

Don,

Those very small details that you think will not be seen are the very ones the the ‘Know nothing busy body’ will immediately point out the the crowd. :slight_smile:

Bob C.

#97

I’ve been known to leave details off, just so the “know nothing busy bodies” will have something to chuckle about. Carried to extreme, this policy sure makes it easy to build models… :slight_smile:

(kidding, kidding)

Steve

#98

I carry a bag of pop rivets so the “rivet counters” will have something to count.

#99
Bob McCown said:
You need to buy these, Bruce:

http://www.micromark.com/SearchResult.aspx?deptIdFilter=0&searchPhrase=finger+drills

Every set.


They’d be OK if you could replace the bits.
Drop one on the floor and snap goes the bit.

I use pin vises, but sometimes they’re too long for cramped spaces.

#100

Slowly being driven crazy. At least it’s a short trip. :o Maybe too many details. :wink: I REALLY wish I had attached the chains to the doors BEFORE I glued them all in place.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/Hopper/ETWNC/IMG_9973.JPG)

Done for one car. I’m using very fine wire to tie the chain to the hook in the door. It would have been a lot easier if I had done it earlier. Only 3 more cars to do. :frowning: I planked over the center section with some 2" x 9" boards that I used the India Ink/alcohol stain on. Then I sprayed some large angle with some texture paint and glued that in place over the rods. It’s starting to look done.

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/Hopper/ETWNC/IMG_9975.JPG)

How about a comparison shot with the original?

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/Hopper/ETWNC/IMG_9975bw.JPG)

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/Hopper/ETWNC/HopperInterior.jpg)

Hey, it’s almost close. :wink: