Large Scale Central

EMD SW1200 vs NW-2 switchers

Looking at pictures of real prototype locos I am trying to figure out the differences between the two from a modeling perspective. US Trains makes the NW-2 and the St Maries River RR uses a SW1200. I would love to model the STMA switcher

SW1200

NW-2

So what are the obvious differences between these two locos. Seems like they are dang near the same locos. I can see behind the back stack the slopes are different.

different rear light housing 8 rows of vents on the 1200 piping next to tank, handrail down the side of the NW2 (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

and vents under cab window on battery box?

Devon

Your RR deserves an SSB 1200.

I will trade you one of them for a CF-7 or an SDP40

Devon there are differences, but I am not a diesel modeler, so I only see the obvious ones. But, if they look the same to you, then grab a USA NW2 and some paint and have at it.

Besides, how many people would notice that its not quite the right locomotive, when they see it trundling around a garden railroad?

" Rooster " said:

Devon

Your RR deserves an SSB 1200.

I will trade you one of them for a CF-7 or an SDP40

If only I had either to trade(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif). looking at the SSB I am seeing that all of these EMD switchers are very similar. Things like hand rails and lights would be easy to deal with. I could and off the excess louvers, not sure how to add them but I wouldn’t need to be that picky. I think I could fake it.

I might have to pick me up a USA switcher. I just looked at this site http://www.thedieselshop.us/DataEMDIndexYD.HTML which has data on all the EMD switchers. And the NW2 and the SW 1200 have the same dimensions or very nearly so. The only glaring issue is the back of the hood but that would be a cinch to fix.

Anyone have tips for making louvers?

So I found some line drawings showing both locos.

The bottom is the USA nw-2 It doesn’t have the louvers at all so no issue there. Really the only thing I can see that would be a big difference it the larger windows and the smaller radiator grill. The radiator grill would be easy enough cut a larger hole and get some mesh for a grill screen. The windows would be a bit tricky to make smaller. But I think it would be a real doable modification. Oh and the hood transition. but some styrene and its easy

My favorite switcher is the SW1500 (in SP colors). SP ran 204 of them boogers. Also like the SW1200 and the NW-2. Athearn and Broadway Unlimited make a real nice detailed SW1500 in HO - guess there’s no demand for them in Large Scale.

Michael, there is probably an unmet demand for several locomotives types in our chosen scale/gauge.

David Maynard said:

Devon there are differences, but I am not a diesel modeler, so I only see the obvious ones. But, if they look the same to you, then grab a USA NW2 and some paint and have at it.

Besides, how many people would notice that its not quite the right locomotive, when they see it trundling around a garden railroad?

This is likely what I would do. For the modern stuff I don’t think I would care to much. The GP9s I want to make won’t be perfect either close representations would be good enough. I think on of these NW2 will work just fine. Paint it up and not worry about it.

I think I would take care of the rear hood transition because that would be easy.

David Maynard said:

Michael, there is probably an unmet demand for several locomotives types in our chosen scale/gauge.

I think that is the large scale world. Just not enough of us to make it worth it to provide all the different lines they do in the smaller scales.

Devon,

It’s not just the louvers that are different on the long hood. All the door arrangements are different. Look closely and you can see the location of different pairs of doors and the door hinges.

If I was to do a conversion, I would completely strip the detail of the long hood. Then using the shapeway products that Burl has designed completely redo the doors. He has designed both the door latches and door hinges. The next step would be to replace all of the missing louvers. Making louvers is quite easy with 1/4 round styrene stock… Or I believe that Archer decals makes a set of raised louvers like the rivet and weld decals (I’m about to order a sample set of each for the Snow Dozer build).

At that point finish the rest of the modifications as you have mentioned.

Door Hinges

http://www.shapeways.com/product/H987RY2RD/hinges?optionId=55991926

Door Latches

http://www.shapeways.com/product/TBESWULSF/paddle-latch-in-1-12-scale?optionId=58925586

Don’t you have a GP9 that still needs to get finished? I can’t say much as I have a Gp30 that stalled out in the middle of detailing…

Craig Townsend said:

Devon,

It’s not just the louvers that are different on the long hood. All the door arrangements are different. Look closely and you can see the location of different pairs of doors and the door hinges.

EMD = Every Model Different

Craig Townsend said:

Devon,

It’s not just the louvers that are different on the long hood. All the door arrangements are different. Look closely and you can see the location of different pairs of doors and the door hinges.

If I was to do a conversion, I would completely strip the detail of the long hood. Then using the shapeway products that Burl has designed completely redo the doors. He has designed both the door latches and door hinges. The next step would be to replace all of the missing louvers. Making louvers is quite easy with 1/4 round styrene stock… Or I believe that Archer decals makes a set of raised louvers like the rivet and weld decals (I’m about to order a sample set of each for the Snow Dozer build).

At that point finish the rest of the modifications as you have mentioned.

Door Hinges

http://www.shapeways.com/product/H987RY2RD/hinges?optionId=55991926

Door Latches

http://www.shapeways.com/product/TBESWULSF/paddle-latch-in-1-12-scale?optionId=58925586

Don’t you have a GP9 that still needs to get finished? I can’t say much as I have a Gp30 that stalled out in the middle of detailing…

That is the kind of thinking that gets me into trouble and ends up in a lot of unfinished projects. I don’t think I want to get this detailed with either the 9’s or a switcher. And yes I have the 9 (hopefully two) first. I just want to start keeping my eyes out for one on Ebay or anywhere else I can pick one up cheap. The low nose GP-9 will likely begin being built this weekend. I am toying between it and the little micro logger I started.

Thanks for the links I might have to give that some consideration though. The rivet counter in me always seems to creep up.

Just looked those latches are 1:12

Sorry wrong link… 1/29 latch

http://www.shapeways.com/product/J2S7PH2KK/paddlelatch?optionId=55973235

Lots of projects, only time. My modeling philosophy has changed over the years. Before it was complete lots of projects and be ‘okay’ with the results. Now, it’s changed. I want my modeling to be the best I can do at the time. If that takes 3 or 10 attempts or more that’s fine. So for me if I’m going to go to the effort of trying to replicate a prototype, then I’m going to spend the time redoing small details like louvers, and latches… :wink:

I’d say if you can find a NW2 cheap, go for it. It might take you a few years to find one at ‘your’ price… Then it might sit on a shelf for a couple of more years until you get time to build it. :wink:

Craig Townsend said:

It might take you a few years to find one at ‘your’ price… Then it might sit on a shelf for a couple of more years until you get time to build it. :wink:

AH… You know Devon! (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

Yes that is exactly how this project will go. I will start my search and then when I get one it will likely sit around until I decide to do it. Or like the GP9 project I will run it as is until I am ready to chop into it. Then it might take several years to complete. Bottom line. . . as Sean has figured out. . .I model on my time schedule, no one else’s.

This switcher idea is a new one. I had no intention of building it. I didn’t think I had a decent starting platform and didn’t really want to do a serious bash. It’s not a priority. First it is diesel and I am a steam guy. It doesn’t fit my layout theme. And it is just a switcher.

The only motivation for this is I happen to fancy this particular short-line prototype. When I actually looked at the NW-2 and realized how close it was to the SW1200 I got intrigued. I won’t be a rivet counter on this one. Close will work. Of course as I say that I am looking at how to detail the GP9 to a more exacting model (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)Who knows. I don’t and I am in no hurry to find out.

I did a NW2 to SW1 bash…

didnt bother with changing louvers! :wink: because 99.999% of people, including myself, will never be able to notice they are wrong.

the “big” differences were all that were important to me:

Before:

After:

webpage for the project:

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/Scottychaos/SW1/

Scot

There is a railroad to build, and the deadline is approaching, like a fast freight train.

He’s got an extra month, he’s cool.

He does? Now, how does get an extra month, when I keep loosing time?