Ok EBT fans step up! I find myself in need of pictures, drawings and or plans for the Shade Gap Depot. Also advice on how to build the bay window would be appreciated…
You mean this one?
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/depot/ShadeGapStation11.jpg)
Here’s an index to some photos I have on line of my model of the Shade Gap depot, which also shows how I did the bay window. http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/depot/ Alas, the builder’s log got lost when MLS’s archives went offline, but the photos show how I did things. Grant Line makes the windows, which scale out darned near perfect for the depot. I’ve got drawings around here somewhere. Send me an e-mail and I’ll get them to you. Later, K
OK…thinking on resurrecting this project…anyone got clues as to rough dimensions for a model?
see the FEBT company store:
http://www.febt.org/Costore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_80&products_id=283
It had begun!!! This weekwnd made up 8 windows using the Chandler Jig method and this evening laid out and cut the ends and front and back walls from coroplast…this is my first time working with coroplast, but I forsee doing lots with it in the future! (specially since I have a garage full of campaign signs…)
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/bart_salmons/_forumfiles/shadegapcon01.jpg)
Yea, I like that stuff. Got quite a few buildings made from it…
I never had much luck with the campaign sign stuff. After a while, one building would start leaning to the right, the next one to the left…
Seriously, out here, the sun just warps the stuff beyond belief. You’ve got to frame the bejeezus out of it to keep flat, which defeats the purpose of using the stuff in the first place–free or not. You’re off to a good start, though. Can’t wait to see it finished.
Later,
K
I have actually had good success with the coro…it’s the acrylic that fights me in full sun…
Shade Gap had 4/4 windows
My only complaint with the coroplast is it doesn’t work well for long roofs. I found it wanted to sag too much. I could add internal bracing, which I did for one building. But for my Grist Mill I used polycarbonate coroplast. Its the same stuff they use on greenhouses. Its much more rigid.
Have you tried the 10MM Coro for roofs. It’s much more rigid than the 3mm used for cheap signs. I have a bunch of scraps, but haven’t tried any yet.
Nope I haven’t. All I got is the 3mm stuff “acquired” from campaign signs.
Its really a great rule around here. If the signs are not removed within 48 hrs of the end of the election then they are fair game. It works really well for a modeler like me!!
Since it finally decided to stop raining…I haven’t really worked much on this …at the last ECLTS I went to (musta been the last one Yogi atteneded) he showed Bob and I how to make clapboard siding outta coroplast…so I gave it a shot…
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/bart_salmons/_forumfiles/shadegapcon02.jpg)
Basically ya just cut through one side of the corrugation and roll it causeing the top to tuck under the one above…this does weakend the strength of the wall, so a subwall was necessary…Another trick Yogi taught me was to use the corner trim for bathroom paneling for corner trim…imagine that …I found it at Lowes in the bathroom Dept…it actually is tight enough that the walls are held together without being glued…(yes they will get glued anyways…)
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/bart_salmons/_forumfiles/shadegapcon03.jpg)
Its a shame Yogis site is gone…there was so much good info there…Guess I’ll try to redo and share some of what I’ve learned…
Yes, it is a shame it’s gone. Had we known it was going it could have been archived here or on my web space. Is Yogi still with us? - last I knew he was not doing well.
Kevin and Bart, what is the scale of your buildings (1:24, 1:22.5, 1:20.3)?
For that matter. what is the scale of your locos and rolling stock. I ask this because I am caught between two scales (1:22.5 and 1:20.3) and can’t seem to settle on one. The bigger one (Fn3) is prototypically correct if you are running the latest Bachmann stuff or have upscaled your Bug Maulers. But 1:20.3 sure takes up a lot of room, which is why I can’t quite shake 1:22.5 (I have two 10-wheelers, an unfinished Connie conversion from a third 10-wheeler, and lots of “small” rolling stock). My two 1:20.3 Connies have yet to turn a wheel, along with two boxcars and a flat.
Dang you, LGB, for getting us into this mess!
My stuff is all built to 1:20.3. Since I specifically model a 3’ gauge railroad, and my eyes are used to seeing where the rails sit relative to the prototype, the accurate scale/gauge relationship is important to me from a visual standpoint.
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/TRR/Winter01.jpg)
Of course, I model the EBT c. 1913, which means there’s a blend of “modern” equipment, but still a lot of the old c. 1870s equipment.
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/EBT1/EdRob02.jpg)
So, I ended up using a lot of the 1:22 and 1:24 models as starting points for much of my rolling stock. The loco on the front of this started life as an LGB mogul (and is now smaller than the mogul.) Here’s the same box car behind my C-19, which is a c. 1881 locomotive. (Amazing how things grew in just 9 years of locomotive development.)
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/TRR5/TRR509.jpg)
However, consider this scene:
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/WoodlandRY/wry11.jpg)
The 2-8-0 in this scene (a B’mann 4-6-0 on BBT chassis) is very similar in size to the B’mann C-19; just touch shorter at the stack and about 1/2" narrower at the cab, but overall length is almost the same and the boiler where it meets the cab is a larger diameter than that of the C-19. It could arguably pass for 1:20 in its own right, but is a “big” 1:22.5 locomotive. If your eyeballs aren’t calibrated to be predisposed to the notion that the rails have to be 3’ apart, you can do a lot of railroading in 1:22.5 and 1:24. My dad’s railroad is definitely based on narrow gauge prototypes, but it’s not specifically 3’ gauge. His railroad is built to 1:24, and is every bit as credible an operation as mine, if not more so. There’s nothing “inaccurate” about it. I built a lot of models of EBT prototype equipment in 1:24 which now runs on his line. When lettered for the EBT, it was accurately scaled, but improperly gauged. Slap “Woodland Railway” on the side of it instead, and it’s accurately scaled and gauged. Nothing changed but the paint. It’s interesting; every now and then folks will bring over 1:20 stuff to run on my dad’s railroad, and it looks out of place. I’m so used to seeing the smaller-sized stuff in that environment that the 1:20 equipment is just too big.
I will definitely agree that the 1:20 equipment takes up more shelf space–particularly the “modern” rolling stock. I don’t run either my EBT 2-8-2 or my K-27 on my outdoor railroad because visually they’re too big for the space. My railroad is built with smaller locos in mind. The outside frame 2-8-0 is probably the largest loco that looks reasonable on my railroad. I had a 2-6-6-2 articulated for a short time. I sold it. It was just too “big” for the railroad.
I do have a collection of the larger “modern” stuff that I take with me to shows to run behind my larger locos–my EBT mike when running live steam, or my K-27 bash at the electric shows. Those locos look great in front of a string of 10 “big” cars and a proper caboose, and at train shows with a lot of space, the size of the models makes a visual impact. But a train that long looks out of place on my small railroad, so those cars live in travel cases.
But… seriously… if you’ve got a collection of 1:22.5 stuff and limited space, then there’s nothing wrong with going with what you got already and being perfectly happy doing so.
Later,
K
I’m nominally 1:20.3 but I’m not really worried about it. Since I’m all by myself down here in the Wilds of West Virginia, there’s really no one to notice. Most of my rolling stock is built from scratch anyways, so that’s the ruler I use when building…
Worked on the bay windows some this evening…still a long ways to go, but its shaping up…
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/bart_salmons/_forumfiles/shadegapcon05.jpg)
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/bart_salmons/_forumfiles/shadegapcon04.jpg)
Nice stuff to work with and I see you got a coro cutter …
However Shade Gap had 4/4 windows
Its not THAT Shade Gap Depot…