Large Scale Central

EBT Boxcar Build-along thread

Modeling
#1

Hi Folks
I put up the first installment of the EBT boxcar project in the Articles area. I’d like this thread to be for questions and answers from the people involved in the project, to give us all a place to share ideas.

Also, if there are other people that would like to build one of these, but didnt get in on the inital order, I can get a few more kits of the acrylic. EMail me if you are interested.

So, the first installment consists of a parts list, and deals with building the basic box of the car out of most of the acrylic parts I sent you all. Construction time should be about half an hour, if that.

Gentlemen, start your engines.

ARTICLE: A Master Index for the J&B RR
#2

Bob, what are the dimensions of these cars? I’ve been assuming that they’re a good deal bigger than my old Bachmann F&CC boxcar. But if they’re not too much bigger, maybe I could use one as long as I convert it to truck-mounted couplers.

#3

Ray, these are going to be rather large cars. I measured the floor of mine and it’s 19 1/4" long.

#4

Got my glue today, so I guess I’m ready to roll. Kind of in the middle of a big shelving project on the railroad, but will work it in in the next couple of days. Thanks for the instructions and support to both Bob and Bruce.

What is a good surface to work on with this glue. Should I do it on wax paper or is just my workbench top, okay?

#5

Go for it Ric!

I’ve built the box…looks like a small aquarium.

#6

To protect your benchwork, Id work with something down on the bench. Wax paper is a good bet.

Coming next, the underframe. Dig up your 1/2 and 3/16 I Beam, and 5/16 channel.

#7

Do I need my MIG welder, too? :lol:

#8

The next insallment of the construction process, underframe and crossmembers, is ready.

#9

Bob does hobby link have the glue or what kind do i need so i can buy it at Lowes hurt my arm I’m a little behind on this project

#10

I’m a little off topic here, and this is mostly directed to Bruce. Could you make up a materials list for the other “composite” box car. I’m building some of them also and would like to order all the materials at one time. I also need to know more about the lag bolts you used to attach the ends and the Accucraft couplers. Also, for both cars, where do you get the 24" wheels that you use? Do these come in various flange sizes like Gary Raymond’s wheels do? My preference is for a simiscale flange vs scale like NW Shortline or the monster flange like most other manufacturers. Gary Raymond is the only one I currently know that makes them. These are more forgiving of uneven rail without looking hideous. And back to the composite cars, I need to know the size of the scribed siding used on the sides too.

#11

Hmm…a list of materials. Might be tough, as I usually order a bunch of stuff of various sizes. Let me see what I can come up with.

For wheels, I’ve been buying Sierra Valley 24" wheels from TOC.

OK…here’s a start on a list of some Evergreen that I used. Probably not complete…

#401 - .188” x .375” x 24” - I use this for the bracing under the floor, cross bracing, and brace under the roof. I used #411 before this (1/4x3/8), but it only comes 3 to a package.
#359 - .060 x .250 x 24” - used for roof pieces (dang, what are those called now?..oh yeah, carlines) and trim under the roof
#14602 Car Siding 12"x24" With .160" Spacing
.100 x .125 for ladders and roof walk supports
.060 x .125 for roof walk supports
Styrene sheet 12”x 24” x .060 used for roof
Miscellaneous trim for the door, most of it .010" thick

Other parts
Strip wood for roof walk: 1/16 x 5/16 x 24”
.040 Brass wire for grab irons
Miniature brass eye pins (#60405 from Micro-Mark) .033 inch diameter brass, 1/2 inch long, 3/64 (three sixty fourths) inch inside eye diameter ($4.65 for 144)

Also some sort of base piece. I had some 1/4" and 1/8" stuff I bought in a package deal from Don Winter.

#12

Thanks, Bruce. That should be sufficient enough to get me by. Hopefully anything else I can either use the fudge factor or find locally. I hate trusting locally because it’s so unreliable.

#13

The next insallment is up, building the end beams. This is a simple yet neat bit of scratchbuilding that will get your feet wet if you’ve never done any before.

Next we’ll finish the car ends with some zee and angle, and some balsawood, and then get to the car sides.

#14

Bob, you have been giving measurements in 1:1 sizes. Where does one get a 1:20.3 ruler?? Or do I just convert everything and use a regular rule??

#15

The one I use most is from http://www.thescalecard.com/

I bought a 6" and 24". I like them because they go down to 1" scale markings. The 24" is nice for working with buildings and some of the rolling stock parts; while the 6" one is nice because it’s short. They’re clear plastic and flexible, so you won’t be using it as a cutting edge.

I also have one from Ctt. You can get it at HobbyLinc. http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/ctt/ctt9020.htm Problem is, it only goes down to 3 scale inches. It’s semi-clear plastic.

I have a brass one from Ozark. It doesn’t agree with the other two.

#16

Bruce ihave a ruler from ozark to and i don;t think it’s right to

#17

John,
The first one I got from them was a Christmas gift from my daughter. I didn’t use it for awhile, but when I did, something didn’t seem right.
A closer examination of the ruler revealed that it counted feet …9…10…12…13 - wait! There’s no 11? They’ve since replaced it, but as I said, it doesn’t agree with my other two. Never quite trusted them after missing that foot…

#18
Bruce Chandler said:
John, The first one I got from them was a Christmas gift from my daughter. I didn't use it for awhile, but when I did, something didn't seem right. A closer examination of the ruler revealed that it counted feet ...9...10...12...13 - wait! There's no 11? They've since replaced it, but as I said, it doesn't agree with my other two. Never quite trusted them after missing that foot...
I found a similar problem in a 12 inch ruler bought from Staples. 4 of the 12 inches had only 7 Eighths :O They made an error in laying it out, then duplicated the error with cut-and-paste.

It really sucks when you have to check measuring tools for accuracy.

JR

#19

Should you wish to detail the INSIDE of these cars, these interior looks of a steel boxcar that is being worked on by the FEBT were just posted to the EBT List by Lance Meyers (his photos)…

I’m surprised to see the wood sheathing inside and wood roof supports. I shudda known, but still surprised :slight_smile: JR

#20

The wooden roof supports are a little surprising for an all steel car, but the wooden sheeting inside isn’t. Even modern box cars can be sheeted with wood or at least have wood rub rails. This prevents a shifting load from banging up the outside of the car. It’s a lot easier to replace a few wooden boards than the side of the car.