Large Scale Central

Early diesels of the 30's and 40's

Modeling Motive Power
#41

After a few month in the shop some news on early diesel projects:

current status of the paint job on RI TA

And with aRI baggage and a (soon to be re-lettered) streamliner

Meanwhile continued with an older project - Peoria and Pekin Union RY #200, a Davenport streamlined switcher of 1938

Started as an ugly ‘Frankenstein’-unit made of GE 44t -parts

And with a lot of putty, glassfiber layers and hours of sanding

Currently I’m dealing with painting the unit - I’d like to get the shell in a slightly lighter black than the frame…haven’t found the appropriate paint up to now

My RI #9006 with its prototypical short passenger train consisting on a baggage mail express and a coach

And started with GM&O’s #1900 - Ingalls’ sole venture in the diesel-electric market (1946)

Used an Aristo-Craft FA, a Bachmann coach’s monitor roof, parts from my scrap box, a good amount of putty and a lot of phantasy to receive an ungainly start

A few days later one can notice more resemblance with the prototype

And after several sanding-sessions (once again…)

Hope you’ll like it

Regards

Norman

#42

Your work is quite impressive, Norman. You have a wonderful assortment of unique locomotives. People like you always amaze klutzes like me. What you have done is fabulous, just fabulous.

#43

Wow. You have some great modeling skills. Its good to see someone take what is available to them and turn it into something they desire. You mentioned putty and glass fiber layers, can you give a little more information on exactly what materials you are using. Thanks for sharing with us.

#44

PPU 200 rates high on the coolness scale of quirky locos. How did you do the grilles?

(and is it grill or grille?, am finding it both ways. but I like grille better)

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#45

Beautiful work. Lots of skill needed to do that kind of work. 1:29, 1:32?

#46

This should help Dan. Putty could be Squadron brand

Great work Norman. Forgot to compliment for the builds(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

#47

Love it Norman!

Hope to get back into the modeling saddle myself real soon!

#48

great work!

#49

#50

Excellent work, you have great vision to see those models in your mocked up starts…

John

#51

Those are neat! Well done. I am not really a diesel guy but am inspired by your work! Fun to see different stuff on the rails.

#52

Awesome! Show us some more. Tells us more about all the fibreglassing, sanding, puttying (that’s not a word, is it). Keep up the great work.

-Kevin.

#53

Many thanks for all your encouraging replies.

@Dan & Kevin - I used kneadable 2-component epoxy putty which mixes&hardens after manual dispersing (e.g. from Loctite). It is easy to build up complex (compound) curves; drilling, milling & sanding works well after hardening. Since I’m over the big pond you’d not find the brands I’ve used over in the US. I assume Squadron putty is a more ‘fluid’ type of putty which would not be the best solution for such a build-up of curves.

David already linke to a video on using fiberglass & resin - I either use a ‘disposable’ sub-structure of styrofoam (mostly for my 7.5"-models) or styrene, cardboard, mesh or similar materials to which epoxy resin binds well after hardening.

@John - I’ve to damit that I almost lost my confidence in finishing the PPU #200 in the early stages - it seemed to ugly, warped and strange to be ever made into something looking like the prototype

@Paul - 1/29…due to the availability of reasonable priced locomotives & cars; I’ve collected a good stock of used Aristo & USA-Trains locmotives & passenger cars for parts. In this smaller scale I prefer using some basic structure (shell, frame, roof etc.) as a starting point…and avoid designing a new driveline at any costs. For my projects complete scratchbuilding is limited to 1" and 1.5" scale.

Additionally some new pictures of my Ingalls 4S - progress made during the last two weeks

Regards

Norman

#54

Norman, might this be the putty you are referring to?

640×512 59.4 KB

#55

Hi Dan,

yes, that’s what I was referring to. Since I live over the big pond, we have other brands of similar characteristics (my latest putty is from a German company brand called UHU - bought in a bulk it was app. $3.00 for 2oz).

http://www.uhu.com/en/products/epoxy-adhesives-2-component/detail/uhu-repair-all-powerkitt-1.html?cHash=e0f929a3ec974e591e89c5e1987a30ab

There are different types, some have copper, aluminium, steel etc. added - from my recent experience I prefer a putty w/o that special additions, binding better to plastics, apparently better hardening and of finer consistence. I had some troubles with a brand from another supplier with steel particles added - on the interface between the two components the putty started to harden - it was almost impossible to make up a homogeneous putty w/o some grains included. You should test a few brands and decide for yourself. another advantage for the impatients like me is the fast curing time - basically hardened after a quarter of an hour. However, you should wait a night before sanding, milling or drilling.

@Forrest

Making the grille I used two 0.040" x 0.080" shapes as upper and lower girders. After clamping together (for perfect alignment) I used a cutting blade on my Dremel to make a 0.040" deep cut every 0.080" or so. Spreading the two girders into the grille’s height I put 0.040" rod into the cut…a fiddly work keeping the whole thing perpendicular. Some weight on the rods in the middle of the grille and I was able to carfully soldering the rods’ ends to the girders. Took some additional persuading the structure to bow the ends around the hood’s outer curves but it worked.

Regards

Norman

#56

Norman, your modeling skills are fantastic. I’m enjoying watching your progress on these locomotives. Keep up the great work.

#57

Norman-

Thanks for the info. I’ve used “Milliput” on some projects in the past. I wonder if it might work for this type of work?

-Kevin.

#58

@Chuck - many thanks for your comment

@Kevin - I’ve used Milliput (the fine & the grainy ony), too. I do not remember how well they bond to the plastics of Aristo & USA-Trains. As far as I remember I wasn’t too happy with the grainy/green one.

Made some further progress on my 4S:

horns, marker lights on the rear, the two big grilles/radiators, cab ladders…

Will take better pix outside with daylight after another priming

Regards

Norman

#59

Norman Schaake said:

Made some further progress on my 4S - horns, marker lights on …

allergies or somethng are messinig with my eyes today, and coordination is off as it sometimes gets, and my brain initally registered that as “my progress on 45 horns”. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)

#60

Norman Schaake said:

current status of the paint job on RI TA

And with aRI baggage and a (soon to be re-lettered) streamliner

OK I am in love with this. Not usually attracted to this era diesels but that is a beautiful model