I typed in show, not the other. How the heck did that happen!
Over the last few days I finished cutting up the cedar I needed to complete the curved part of the trestle and assembled it all. The five main beams were made up from 2- 3/16 x 1” cedar strips, bent to the curve of the trestle, then clamped and nailed to the bents. They are full length. I made a tongue joint where the curved section meets with the 6’ straight section. While it looks like it’s all one piece, the curve and straight sections simply pull apart to make them easier to handle. I’ll have to run the rail bender on the ends of the track to straighten them some but that was the intention al along. It’s done now until spring. I have more to make or might make a bridge to span the remaining gap so I can lift it out as it will be in the area where I dump mulch over the wall into the flower beds around my train area. I can remove the bridge, drop buckets of mulch with my tractor onto the ground from above, spread it out, then replace the bridge.
Beautiful trestle Ted. I’m looking forward to seeing it installed.
Cliff Jennings said:
Beautiful trestle Ted. I’m looking forward to seeing it installed.
Cliff,
Would you be interested in creating a sign up sheet for a fall leaf removal under “Ted’s beautiful trestle”?
It’s badass Ted and thank you for sharing !
Rooster said:
Cliff Jennings said:
Beautiful trestle Ted. I’m looking forward to seeing it installed.
Cliff,
Would you be interested in creating a sign up sheet for a fall leaf removal under “Ted’s beautiful trestle”?
Actually rooster, in the area that it’s going in thankfully doesn’t get many leaves at all.
WOW that looks killer …can you sit on it?
How are you going to prep the area were this monster will sit?
I would suggest 6" to 8" of 3/4 " stone covered with some filter fabric and place 1/4’ stone on top " Drainage" and give the agwa some place to go so the feet are dry most of the time…
Great looking structure there Ted…
I stood on top of it, very gingerly of course but it’s solid as a rock. I weigh 235 so it is plenty strong enough! LOL The area it’s going in is currently mulched but my plan is to remove the mulch where the trestle sits. I thought about some pieces of 6" trex decking set on edge so the actual contact would be very small from the plastic to the wood. Might put in four pieces evenly spaced to cover the foot print of the trestles. Then I’ll add heavy weed paper and pea stone. I know I can bend the trex somewhat so it might work. I’m on a ton of coarse sand here so drainage is excellent. I mainly just have to keep the mulch away from it and I believe I should be good. The main area for my railroad also drains extremely well. My plan is to build up the edges, PT 6x6’s and sheets of aluminum scrap metal. I’ll lay the metal down first to cover the irregularities in the rocks/boulders that make up my raised bed then fasten the 6x6’s to the metal. My plan is to then fill the area with reclaimed asphalt milling after my electric conduits and water features are in the way I want. The area will be made flat first to start then I’ll start adding the raised areas. Which software do you guys recommend for planning a railroad. I know I asked this before but can’t seem to find that thread. With winter coming I should have a fair amount of time to start laying it out. Is it common practice to graph out the area so it can be easily transferred to a program? I know I can use graph paper also but assume there’s a more modern way.
Thanks in advance.
The chemicals in the pressure treated will eat the aluminum away when the two are in contact in not too short of order. JMHO YMMV(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
David Marconi,CHHN said:
JMHO YMMV(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Never heard of the guy myself
Sean McGillicuddy said:
WOW that looks killer …can you sit on it?
Probably but he …never mind …as he answered you .
David Marconi,CHHN said:
The chemicals in the pressure treated will eat the aluminum away when the two are in contact in not too short of order. JMHO YMMV(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
A layer of heavy roofing felt solves that problem. These Timbers are old, in excellent shape, and actually creosote treated but I didn’t say that!
Beautiful job Ted. You really need to hand spike the rail across that trestle as it will be an awesome spot for pictures.
Jon, I have actually thought of that and agree with you. Where can I get the proper spikes? I do have and aristo track gauge and I have a bunch of brass rail and other brass rail that I had nickeled. I would think the the trestle would be as good of place as any to try the nickeled brass rail. Of course, spiking the rails down directly will save over 40’ of plastic ties. I can also spike down the rails on the bridge that will complete the last 5’ of the span.
Ted, if you need a single rail bender I have one for sale. It is the old Aristo unit and you can have it for $10.00.
Does rainwater actually run under that trestle or is it just for looks?
Does rainwater actually run under that trestle or is it just for looks?
Dan Pierce said:
Ted, if you need a single rail bender I have one for sale. It is the old Aristo unit and you can have it for $10.00.
I have a single rail bender that came in a colli bought when I first started in g back 15-18 years ago. It’s a pretty nice one where you can put on a battery drill to power bend the rails But thanks for the offer.
Dan,
If the rail bender is for sale, I would be interested.
Bob Wenger
1 Like
I have finished the initial part of the trestle and put it in place where it will go. Will add a 8’ box truss bridge that is removable so I can dump my mulch for the beds from my upper yard above. All the rail is hand spiked and is made up of the LGB brass rail I had nickel plated. Here are some pictures of it in place. It still needs some lower support added at the bases of the bents but it’s remarkably solid as it sits.
2 Likes