Large Scale Central

Double track trestle jig

Using a set of Garden Texture trestle plans, I made up a jig on an old hollow core door. Knowing that I have to make at least 30 units up, I tried to figure out a way to make things go as fast as possible. Using two 4” wide x8’ cedar planks I had, I ripped one into 1/2x1/2 full length pieces and the other, I planed down to 1/2”. I made my jig per the GT suggestions but added two hinged flip down circular saw guides so the 1/2”sq uprights can be cut in place, laying full length pieces in the jig. This allows cutting all 5 uprights at one time and no mitering cuts needed beforehand. Once the first set of uprights are cut, the second set can just be slid up to the top of the jig as the angles are already cut correctly from the bottom cuts being made on the first set of uprights. The hinged saw guides also help align two of the cross braces in the correct position.

My process is to put 5 full length uprights in the jig with the tops just barely above the cut line at the trestle top. I then lower both cutting guides which hold down the uprights while I glue and pin nail the two cross braces that sit flush against the edges of the cut guides. I then cut the top and bottom of the uprights following the guide with my Ryobi battery circular saw. I then add all other bracing which I make first by cutting the planed plank to The specific lengths of each cross brace and X braces. I then rip each piece at the required 3/16” thickness. My future idea is to cut holes on the sides of the jig to fasten coffee cans in each hole at each and the fill those coffee cans with the correct length pieces of wood at that location. the jig should allow for trestles to be built pretty rapidly once the cans are filled up with supplies.

So I now have my jig made up for later in the year when I get to making them all up. I made two with the wood I had on hand and I’m pleased with how they came out. They are 32” tall and will carry the trains from my back outside basement wall to the outside area.

I’ve put my garden railroad on hold these past couple years while I finish up the last antique cars I’m restoring. I do work on project in between for a change of pace from time to time. I made this jig about 18 months ago and picked up red cedar in the meantime expecting to. Are my bents. Well yesterday I finished my jig buy installing 3” pvc tubes with bottoms to hold all the needed pieces And two glue bottles. I then went to work cutting up all the cedar needed and then filled up the tubes in the jig. Using the jig set up this way with one pin nail gun and a ryobi t Brad gun, I’m able to build one trestle about every 16 minutes. My future daughter in law and my son have been living here and will be till October. She has done a ton of house remodeling with my son and likes projects. She’ll be finishing up my bents for me. Here’s a couple pictures with 10 made up for perspective. Got at least another 10-14 to make!

Hmmm pics?

Funny as soon as I posted this …there were pics on your post …Never mind…

What spacing did you go with … I used 6" on center looked OK to me …

(https://www.largescalecentral.com/public/album_photo/13/a7/01/1a46d_3779.jpg?c=3278)

That’s what I have them at in the picture and that’s what I plan on going with for distance. Looking at the area from my basement wall to my raised bed it looks like 15’ or so. That means I need close to 20 more bents! Geez!

Here’s 6’ of it done before it needs to start making a turn to the right. What is the best thing to put on the cedar for weather protection?

The best clear Cedar finish stain for outdoors is Linseed oil, hands down. Linseed oil is the primary ingredient in any oil finishes, which dries clear. You can find other clear water-based stains, but will not last nearly as long as a Linseed oil based stain will.

IMHO YMMV (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

I also like Linseed Oil, but make sure that ALL of your wood doesn’t touch the ground at all - have SOMETHING under it. I’ve used the foamed PVC the most, but I suspect anything other than dirt is good.

Linseed oil is a great choice. I wanted to darken the Cedar on a bridge built a few years back - I mixed Minwax Ebony stain with boiled linseed oil. I can probably find the formula I settled on if interested.

Thompson waterproofing is what I used …

Thanks everyone. I thought it was probably linseed oil but wanted to make sure. I have a oil I used on my mahogany decking. Curious if it would be good for my trestle as I believe it also has some UV protection.

Made up 12’ of the curved section. I said the curve was to the right but it’s actually to the left out of my basement. I have already made up 18’ and I still have about 5’ more I’ll need to make. I have to take a trip out to my customer to get more cedar as I’m about out of my original load. I’m pretty happy with it so far. I still have to add all the top stringers and ties yet.

Beautiful and very ambitious project Ted. By the looks of your other projects in the background you are no stranger to complex projects! I have a long elevated section where I exit my basement built on flat PT lumber supported on post-ups and 4x4’s that cries out for a wood trestle, I’ve built small ones on the indoor, so I know how much labor is involved!

Yeah, what Jon said! Beautiful work, Ted!

Ted Brito said:

Made up 12’ of the curved section. I said the curve was to the right but it’s actually to the left out of my basement. I have already made up 18’ and I still have about 5’ more I’ll need to make. I have to take a trip out to my customer to get more cedar as I’m about out of my original load. I’m pretty happy with it so far. I still have to add all the top stringers and ties yet.

Looks good, Ted. How does this compare to restoring an OLD car?

Curves are curves…and right or left just depends on which direction you’re headed…doesn’t it?

Bruce Chandler said:

Looks good, Ted. How does this compare to restoring an OLD car?

Curves are curves…and right or left just depends on which direction you’re headed…doesn’t it?

Exactly !

Actually Bruce, I mainly restore early thirties GM cars which are Fisher bodied. They are all ash framing with the sheet metal nailed to it. I made a lot of intricate pieces like hinge and latch posts For example. I like to change up from one thing to the other from time to time to keep myself fresh so to speak. Changing pace keeps things interesting and makes you want to work on whatever project. I’m currently restoring the 30’ chevy you can see in the background. I just finished up replacing all the roof wood, some front header wood, and the two latch pillars so now it’s on the roti to go to paint work. Chassis is above it on my lift, just waiting on the motor to come back from the machine shop as everything else is done. Tonight I started making some car wood pieces for a 32’ Oldsmobile that’s out in Spokane Washington.

Ted Brito said:

Actually Bruce, I mainly restore early thirties GM cars which are Fisher bodied. They are all ash framing with the sheet metal nailed to it. I made a lot of intricate pieces like hinge and latch posts For example. I like to change up from one thing to the other from time to time to keep myself fresh so to speak. Changing pace keeps things interesting and makes you want to work on whatever project. I’m currently restoring the 30’ chevy you can see in the background. I just finished up replacing all the roof wood, some front header wood, and the two latch pillars so now it’s on the roti to go to paint work. Chassis is above it on my lift, just waiting on the motor to come back from the machine shop as everything else is done. Tonight I started making some car wood pieces for a 32’ Oldsmobile that’s out in Spokane Washington.

So aren’t these thirties cars OLD??? (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)

I read your blog on your restoration of that car in the picture (I suspect a thirties GM (I’m THINKING Oldsmobile, but my memory went a LONG time ago) with a body by Fisher) and really enjoyed it. Nice work.

Your memory is correct, it’s a 32’ Olds And thanks for the compliments. i show it with the antique auto club of America or AAC, the largest antique vehicle association in the world and it has done very well winning first places in both junior and senior classes then a junior grand national award. Next may I’ll shit for a senior grand National award. It also won the 2019 Ransom Olds award for the most outstanding restoration of an Olds in the country. My main goal was to make it exactly as it was new and it was a ton of work but it’s paid off adding value to the car also. Now once a few mortar projects are done I’ll concentrate all my efforts into getting my garden railroad going.

“Next may I’ll sh#t for a senior grand National award.”

Ted;

Don’t feel too bad. I personally think the guy who decided to put the “i” right next to the “o” on a keypad should have to endure some kind of really harsh punishment. (Such as having a C clamp applied to an extremely tender body part that is only found on males!) Most likely he is already dead, since the QWERTY keypad dates to the later part of the nineteenth century. Just thinking up the punishment is fun, although moot.

Best, David Meashey