Anyone have any suggestions for a decoder to put into an LGB 2063? It’s an older model, motor block is stamped 1998, so I’m assuming I’ll need to do the usual disassemble-and-separate between the motor block and pickups, that seems to be common in the older LGB locos.
I’m looking for a decent decoder with sound, and the ability to control a couple of servos for uncouplers. I know next to nothing about DCC decoders (except some plug-n-play ones in N-scale I’ve played with)
Help?
I have experience with only three, the QSI, the SoundTraxx TSU4400 and the TCS wow. They all sound very good IMHO. TCS and the Soundtraxx are easy to get, the QSI not so much. TCS is 5 amps, TSU says 4. TCS does two speakers, TSU just one. Not sure what prime mover for the LGB 2063 is in real life? but you should be able to find something at least close in either one. I really like the TCS wow brake function/sound with the momentum turned up. Very cool. TCS has ‘voice assist’ programming, a bit weird but easy to do. TSU does standard CV programming stuff. Neither does servos directly, (I have an app for that ya know, ha) but they both have function outputs- I’m driving a tiny 12v fan with the TCS. Anyhow, I don’t know what you are going to drive it with, I have only used with them with my Bluetooth board setup and battery power. Folks familiar with more decoders and a more traditional method- track power, Airwire, etc might have a different perspective, but I’m very happy with mine.
Massoth or Zimo… The units Martin mention do not have servo outputs. Also, depending on the vintage, you may find a decoder that plugs in.
LGB motors draw very little current so everything, even many HO decoders have enough current.
Look for a “D” in the plastic underneath on the motor block, that means it is at least a 4 wire motor block, not the 3 wire that must be disassembled.
More clues here: https://elmassian.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=584&Itemid=713
Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
Massoth or Zimo… The units Martin mention do not have servo outputs. Also, depending on the vintage, you may find a decoder that plugs in.
LGB motors draw very little current so everything, even many HO decoders have enough current.
Look for a “D” in the plastic underneath on the motor block, that means it is at least a 4 wire motor block, not the 3 wire that must be disassembled.
More clues here: https://elmassian.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=584&Itemid=713
Greg
I looked at the motor block, its just stamped with what I assume is the date of manufacture, 1998. So I’m guessing its the 3-wire one. Ill double check later on.
Dan Gilchrist said:
You can always add servo control to ANY system with this Sparkfun Servo trigger
Yea, those are neat. I have a couple to play with other Arduino projects. I was hoping a board with on-board servo control. I’ll look at Greg’s recommendations and see.
If I remember right, the Zimo also has the “dance” function, where you give it the command and it goes back and forth, like the movement you use over a Kadee uncoupler.
I think the Zimo’s have up to 4 servo outputs, and killer sound files now, and they also are very tolerant of higher voltages even in the HO scale decoders (meaning you can run G scale voltages to them)…
Getting an HO unit saves a lot of space and I think they have 1.5 or 1.7 amp units which should be fine.
Dan Pierce on the forum has servos in his locos and knows the Zimo well… There’s Keith/Kevin that knows the Massoth… I also think ESU has what you want, but harder for support and help and not as good US sound library.
Greg
There is a new dealer in the US now for ESU.
https://www.ironplanethobbies.com/
Has ESU with sound called LocSound.
I have installed Zimo sound decoders in over 10 of the different LGB davenports (2063, 2062, 21630).
I do modify the front grill (drill out screen but leave posts) and install a 2 inch speaker behind it and use a matching Xmas ribbon between the grill and speaker…
The zimo decoders I use will control a smoke unit (I drill out the stack and install an 18 volt unit).
I add standard Kadee couplers and control them with staqndard servos and program in a waltz (Engine will back up, uncouple and then pull forward on its own from pressing one uncoupling key.)
Sound project from Zimo will go through a motor start up and have a rough start up idle that smooths out. Changing direction will give a mechanical clunk for the reversing mechanism.
The 2063 does have a 3 wire motor block. it is the 20635 that has a 4 wire block. I find it very east to convert the 3 wire blocks to 4 wire as I have done this more times than I can count.
P.S. Bob, I have all the parts on hand to do this right here in Massachusetts and can show you several of my units I have working.
Bob
I can be the go between , as I work near you and live near Dan… let me know…(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Dan Pierce said:
I have installed Zimo sound decoders in over 10 of the different LGB davenports (2063, 2062, 21630).
I do modify the front grill (drill out screen but leave posts) and install a 2 inch speaker behind it and use a matching Xmas ribbon between the grill and speaker…
The zimo decoders I use will control a smoke unit (I drill out the stack and install an 18 volt unit).
I add standard Kadee couplers and control them with staqndard servos and program in a waltz (Engine will back up, uncouple and then pull forward on its own from pressing one uncoupling key.)
Sound project from Zimo will go through a motor start up and have a rough start up idle that smooths out. Changing direction will give a mechanical clunk for the reversing mechanism.
The 2063 does have a 3 wire motor block. it is the 20635 that has a 4 wire block. I find it very east to convert the 3 wire blocks to 4 wire as I have done this more times than I can count.
P.S. Bob, I have all the parts on hand to do this right here in Massachusetts and can show you several of my units I have working.
Ah, thats awesome, Dan. Sounds like what I want to do, less the smoke unit. Are you using the MX645? Have a picture of the installation?
Sorry I did not take pictures. I have used both the full size largescale decoders and the MX645 in LGB single motor engines.
For motor and 3 lights, the MX645P22 ($100) is what I would use in your Davenport and the sound project is an additional cost ($35 max, could be $25).
If you do this install yourself I can load the program and customize the CV’s to your liking.
I have used Massoth in several LGB engines and hand cars as well as some none LGB engines. They have been easy to install and configure.
Yes the older LGB motor require seperating the motor leads from the pickups but that is easy too.
I think the comparable Massoth (in price) decoders only have one servo output, the Zimo MX645 series have 2 to 4 servo outputs.
I’d want separate servos for each coupler…
Greg
If Im reading the manual correctly, I can connect servos directly to the 645 with no additional hardware? Is that correct?
Yes, the MX645 will control 2 separate servos directly. Also could control the Kadee $50 unit directly. I have done this both ways. Using the engine decoder to drive a regular servo to a standard Kaddee is very cost effective.
Bob
His unit is a great switcher … (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
Getting back to this tonight. I got the hood off, and I have the three wires, white/green/brown. So I guess I get the fun of a full disassembly.
I went inside a “3 wire” block, and put a piece of heat shrink on the longitudinal rod that connects one track pickup to one motor lead… you should see where that is…
Then you just need one more wire to the motor, if I remember right, bring that out.
Perhaps Dan has a favorite place to bring out that wire.
Did you reference the very end of this page?
Regards, Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
I went inside a “3 wire” block, and put a piece of heat shrink on the longitudinal rod that connects one track pickup to one motor lead… you should see where that is…
Then you just need one more wire to the motor, if I remember right, bring that out.
Perhaps Dan has a favorite place to bring out that wire.
Did you reference the very end of this page?
Regards, Greg
Yup. That’s basically what my block looks like. I’ll probably use a 4-pin Molex to connect everything once I sort it out
