Large Scale Central

CVSRy Over-Engineering Dept. proposes to cover Deep Cut

Track and Trestles
#1

You all remember Deep Cut - right ? [url=photo.cvsry.com/deep1-1280.jpg]

[/url][color=blue]Deep Cut - Circa 2004 - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] [url=photo.cvsry.com/deep2-1280.jpg]

[/url][color=blue]Deep Cut - Circa 2004 - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] When Deep Cut was opened nearly 6 years ago, many said it would collapse within a year. The best advice I recall from the original 2004 post on MLS What to do about Deep Cut was from Ric Golding who suggested that I do nothing and just let nature take it’s course. Since that was very easy advice to follow, I chose to take it. [url=photo.cvsry.com/Deep1024.jpg]

[/url][color=blue]Deep Cut - Circa 2005 - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] [url=photo.cvsry.com/Pine2-1024.jpg]

[/url][color=blue]Deep Cut - Circa 2005 - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] [url=photo.cvsry.com/Pine4-1024.jpg]

[/url][color=blue]Deep Cut - Circa 2005 - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] Over the years the sides have eroded some. Each spring I need to uncover the tracks moving several shovels full of earth. As of last fall, the bottom of the cut was easily 6 inches wider than the top due to eroding earth. At this point, anyone going too close to the edge risks collapsing the cut. [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Loop-Plan-1024-1.JPG]

[/url][color=blue]Deep Cut - Circa 2006 - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Loop-Plan-1024-3.JPG]

[/url][color=blue]Deep Cut - Circa 2006 - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] There have been plans in the past to create a dead-end tunnel to replace the cut. These plans were either too work intensive (block walls/top) or too expensive (corrugated PVC drain pipe) so the cut was left to weather. Today, the railroad received a donation of a 4 foot piece of 24 inch PVC drain pipe. This, in combination with a concrete block terminus / hatch should work perfect to finally close in Deep Cut. [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Border-2-1024.JPG]

[/url][color=blue]Deep Cut - Circa 2008 - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Border-4-1024.JPG]

[/url][color=blue]Deep Cut - Circa 2008 - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Expand08-1024.jpg]

[/url][color=blue]Deep Cut - Circa 2008 - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] The photo below is the latest I have of the entrance area to the cut… [url=lsc.cvsry.com/SummerRun2-001-1200.jpg]

[/url][color=blue]Deep Cut - Circa 2009 - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] I’ll continue to work in large rocks to replace the dirt wall at the left until I reach what Dave M. has named Natural Bridge. The PVC Pipe and some kind of a tunnel portal will begin on the far side of the root. Everything in the view below will remain as a cut, and everything out of view at the left will become a tunnel. [url=lsc.cvsry.com/SummerRun-04-1200.jpg]

[/url][color=blue]Deep Cut - Circa 2009 - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] One worry I had early on when thinking about a dead-end tunnel was hitting the bumper and derailing. When we visited Brent, Ontario with Fred and the American Invasion crew, I noticed signs along the right-of-way giving car counts. I’m thinking that I just need a sign placed before the portal, as far away as the tunnel is deep. The operational rule will be to stop short of the tunnel, note where on the train the sign lines up, then slowly proceed into the tunnel, stopping when that point reaches the portal. Now I just need to wait for the ground to thaw :smiley: [Edited to fix broken picture links] [Edited to fix broken URL link]

#2

Good luck on the up coming project, Jon. May I ask the story/history behind deep cut?

#3

It’s pretty simple really. When I first started building the railroad, I came to a point where the slope of the yard raised too fast to follow, so I began to dig the cut to hold the grade to a minimum. It was always intended to be a dead end. At one point, see the 2004 photos, it was the only track in the front yard.

If you dare venture over to MLS, the link above leads to my original 2004 post on the cut.

#4

Thankey Jon, Dead end surprised me

#5

quote: “Now I just need to wait for the ground to thaw big_smile”.

Wait for the thaw? Just blast… :wink:

#6

I was worried about that tree. I see the tree is happy and healthy.

#7

No pictures from this year?

I thought about a tunnel on my layout, but was quickly cured of that idea when running on Jim Strong’s layout. My stuff always got stuck and lost pieces… :wink:

#8

Jon,

If you make it a tunnel, it seems you will have to have something as long as the tunnel so you can pull stuff out of it, like a hoe. I guess the other option is an inspection port at the far end to allow you to clean out the grass, bunny nests and such.

What happens if you cave down the sides with sod on top to create a wider gentler slope tha tyou could cut with the mower? Maybe on the tree side you could keep the rock wall.

For a tunnel, you could build the sides out of concrete pavers on end and use the same with the top being pavers layed on top of the side walls. You could pour the side walls out of concrete, using hog wire or something like that for strength. I used a flu pipe for an old tunnel up by KV Cabins. Trains used to run through it, but now it seems to be Kassy’s hiding place.

Sched 40 pipe could be used, but unless you can obtain scrap, it is going to be expensive. The corragated plastic culvert pipe might work, or regular culvert pipe. However, with those options I think you need that inspection port at the dead end. Will it slope towrd the root from the end or away from it? In other words, will it want to hold water?

I always liked the uniquness of it, as “the big cut”.

#9

Dave - I’ve always been point-to-point. Added a Wye around 2006 then started construction for on a loop last year (unless you count all the preliminary work).

Tom - We hoped that tree would die. That’s why it lives :slight_smile:

Bruce - Haven’t had time or I would have had the Shay out in the snow !

Richard - Or get a bigger shovel. My company just started digging foundations on Tuesday - the big diggers have no problem :o

Ric - With all the pictures, you must have missed the part where I got a piece of 24" diameter PVC Culvert for free. It’s only 4 foot long and I’m only going to cover the deepest end of the cut. There will still be an area with sides higher than a train. I do plan on an access port at the far end. Even though, there may come a time that garden tools will be needed to extract wayward equipment.

#10

4 foot by 24 inch? Holy crap, that is huge. What are you going to do with all the dirt, after you bury that sucker?

#11

There are always paces for dirt in my yard. Swamp Maple roots need coverin’ etc. etc. etc. :smiley:

I really don’t think I’m going to have to dig the much. The trench has really opened up in the last few years. The pictures don’t really show it.

The pipe is probably 18" diameter. I measured it as 1 cubit. Haven’t taken the time to measure my cubit, but I’m not tall so 24" is probably pushing it!

#12

“The pipe is probably 18” diameter. I measured it as 1 cubit. Haven’t taken the time to measure my cubit, but I’m not tall so 24" is probably pushing it!"

Man don’t go Noah on me, Jon. Is it 18 inch diameter or 24 inch diameter? 24 inch would be 6 inch taller. We talkin round pipe? Maybe light green in color?

#13

Hmm. I was just looking at the pictures.

#14
Ric Golding said:
"The pipe is probably 18" diameter. I measured it as 1 cubit. Haven't taken the time to measure my cubit, but I'm not tall so 24" is probably pushing it!"

Man don’t go Noah on me, Jon. Is it 18 inch diameter or 24 inch diameter? 24 inch would be 6 inch taller. We talkin round pipe? Maybe light green in color?


To dark and cold to go check now. I’ll measure and photo in the morning.

It is round black corrugated PVC pipe. Unlike the smaller stuff, it has a smooth (not corrugated) interior wall.

#15

It seems to me, you are going to expose a whole lot more roots. It will make a nice addition, and maybe you’ll eliminate some of the liability of someone falling into the deep cut. :wink: Change and progress needs to be embraced. The tunnel portal will be a great photo spot.

#16

When I originally laid the track in the cut, it was on a bed of what they call 3/4" process here - crushed stone from 3/4" down to dust. I think there is a couple of inches of that compacted under a piece of 3/4" PT 1x6 that the track is attached to. I’m hoping that I won’t need to excavate more than a couple of inches more to fit the tube in. I do plan to keep the PT lumber roadbed inside the tunnel to keep the track up out of any water that may run through.

I’ve never been to worried about liability, but when little ones are over I always have to remind them not to go too close to the edge so it doesn’t cave in. It’s also a bit scary when I go close with the riding mower.

From a railroad story point of view, the tunnel, and the main line originally continued East, but due to a collapse deep in the tunnel, the tourist trains and the short-line freights can only venture in a short distance, but far enough to clear the wye switch.

#17

“From a railroad story point of view, the tunnel, and the main line originally continued East, but due to a collapse deep in the tunnel, the tourist trains and the short-line freights can only venture in a short distance, but far enough to clear the wye switch.”

Whew, I like that. I also like the idea of marking the distance. I remember talking about that in Canada.

#18
Jon Radder said:
From a railroad story point of view, the tunnel, and the main line originally continued East, but due to a collapse deep in the tunnel, the tourist trains and the short-line freights can only venture in a short distance, but far enough to clear the wye switch.
From a story point of view.............the tunnel can continue East. Put a signal up for imaginary traffic. Your trains wait for a green light before negotiating the wye. Ralph
#19

As promised, here are some pictures of the newly acquired tunnel material… [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Post/Pipe-01-1024.JPG]

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Post/Pipe-01-640.JPG)

[/url][color=blue]Piiiiiipe !!! - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] I just happened to have a couple of sections of track stored outside. The piece of wood is some 1/2 log siding taken off my house last year. It just might be perfect to support the track. [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Post/Pipe-02-1024.JPG]

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Post/Pipe-02-640.JPG)

[/url][color=blue]Test fit track - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] With a piece of 1:20 rolling stock posed inside. This material would be plenty big enough for a double track main. [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Post/Pipe-03-1024.JPG]

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Post/Pipe-03-640.JPG)

[/url][color=blue]Test fit boxcar - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] There should be no clearance issues :smiley: If I make the entire portal removable, a small person could fit inside to retrieve wayward rolling stock.

#20

What will be used as the “small stuck person” retrieval tool?