Jim Byrnes started making laser precision tools for ship building. I’m not sure what Donna will decide to do with the business, but if you can find one of these tools, consider grabbing one.
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If you’re working with shorter (~12") strips, this method might help to at least do the scoring, if not the actual cutting.
I guess my first question is what size sheets are you planning to cut your stock from and how much do you want to waste? Remember to include the thickness of the blade you are cutting with. Most blades will require 1/16" to 1/8" thickness in waste.
I echo the Rooster on those questions. The sawdust amount is also a factor.
I’ve tried to shear styrene sheet with a paper cutter, but it walks all over the place. So though I haven’t tried it myself, the idea of pressing a cutter wheel down onto the sheet seems more likely to give a reliable result for either scoring or cutting.
FWIW, from Styrene cutting Device? | ModelRailroadForums.com
What I use most is a paper cutter that I got from the office supplies section of Walmart. I mounted it on a piece of MDF, added sheet hardboard to make the base more level with the cutter surface and added hardboard strips as guides to keep the stock sheet of plastic square. I push one of the cutters (the green parts) from bottom to top to keep the sheet against the guides. I have not needed to tape or clamp the sheet using this cutter. I like this enough to use it to square up my mistakes cutting other ways. Here it is.
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i’ve pretty much resigned myself to getting one of these saws if they ever become available but also to the fact they may not.
i would consider another brand if i could find a few consistent recommendations. for every pro, i find a con. and eventually give up in frustration after a few days (in a daze!).
in an attempt to clarify - i would be happy to use the Evergreen 12" x 6" or 24" x 12" sheets.
the paper cutter might have a time getting through .080". a 1:12 scale inch is .083" so for sheathing boards, i might work, but if i can get something i don’t have to wrestle with to work it would be a good thing.
might have to bite the bullet and go to a plastics distributor. given the cost of specialized tools, a once a year order may even make better economical sense.
I have bought several standard 4’x8’ sheets of 1/8th inch thick styrene sheets from a local industrial plastic supplier.
They cut the sheets into smaller sheets for me, so that the smaller sheets were easier to handle.
I then used a band saw with a fence to cut the small sheets into 1/2" strips.
I use the strips to cut up as needed into shims for mounting Kadee couplers.
Yes there is a slight ridge on the edges of the cut strips, but they are easily shaved off with a smalll hand file, or a passage of a saber knife blade.
I have been doing this for years.
FJPM
Here’s my thoughts as someone that cuts styrene on a regular basis and is a styrene hoarder.
Yes, the Brynes saw is worth the money if you can find one second hand now that Jim passed. I wouldn’t sell mine so it’s gonna be hard! Even with a cheap MicroMark table saw I was able to cut strips just fine. Use something to hold down thin sheets and you’ll be fine. I cut down to .030 by .010 just fine.
.060 to .125 cut just fine with a fine tooth blade on slow speed. I’ve also cut those on a full sized saw but lots more waste with a bigger kerf.
.040 below it’s easier to use a knife or other cutting tool.
You can still score and snap up to .125 but as you said it leaves a rough edge.
A plastic supply house will be a lot cheaper. By 4x8 sheets and either have them cut them or do it yourself. I tend to buy .030, .060 and .125 4x8 sheets.
A paper cutter won’t work. I’ve tried. It works okay on .010 or .015 but that’s about it.
Another solution I haven’t tried yet for .030 and below is using a CriCut type machine.
PS, buy yourself one of these. I use it all the time to scrap the “V” edges off score and snapped sheets or to remove the melted plastic when using a mini table saw.
https://www.tapplastics.com/product/supplies_tools/plastic_tools_supplies/edge_scraper/588?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAgoq7BhBxEiwAVcW0LJt9FIgQrgleiPQrp0lQDgmbXU2DTQ1Z3Bdd5hmr05ttPAkyOpMBxRoCqVcQAvD_BwE
this is encouraging. i may begin the miniature saw indecision-dance again!
thanks
sometimes i think, you all are too modern.
think traditionally!
since times unknown, every executioner, including Dr. Guillotine, knew that clean vertical cuts have to be delivered from above.
every kind of knife is a kind of wedge. a wedge must produce V-shaped cuts.
so, we need to shear off the material, instead of cutting it.
for doing that, the best tool i found is an oldfashioned paper cutter.
(not the new ones, where one runs a knife along the material, but the old finger-chopper type)
(remember: a model build without blood is like a chicago building without a corpse in the foundations)
btw, contrary to the mentioned above, i have made good cuts with a steel ruler and a pizza cutter.
just clamp plastic and ruler down, roll the sharp/new cutter along the steel-edge.
I agree Korm, all the .125 sheets of PVC I used for my bigger builds(longer strips) were cut on a mat with a utility knife and a large T square.
I’m not saying that .125 styrene can’t be scored and snapped. It can, and I do it quite often. The problem is the edge of the thicker pieces when you score and snap them isn’t a nice vertical line.
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I’m not saying that .125 styrene can’t be scored and snapped. It can, and I do it quite often. The problem is the edge of the thicker pieces when you score and snap them isn’t a nice vertical line."
which is exactly why i started the thread.
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The easiest and cheapest solution is that edger tool I linked too. This last winter during the MIK build I cut endless strips and used that tool to clean the edges.
Let us know what you end up doing.
Since the Brynes saw is probably not available, I’d suggest this one
Don’t get this. I used this one for many years. Yes it worked but it has a crappy fence and is under powered. But for under $100 it’s not a bad “let’s see if I actually use a mini table saw in my modeling process”. The table is a bit small but most saws are so be prepared to make a flush table that extends the saw.
my grumble with microMark goes back to their copying tools & contribution to the demise of NorthWest Shortline. i also think in quite a few comparisons the prices are higher than identical items sourced elsewhere. i understand the “i’mma NMRA member - can i get a discount?” and all under one umbrella convenience - but i guess ‘i have issues.’
Q: do we know if the Proxxon FET table saw can be controlled by an external rheostat to slow the blade?
if so, regardless if i continue down the styrene highway or jump ship and use wood, it wood (sic) be a good shop tool in the arsenal.
thanks
Short answer “As to a light dimmer for a speed control… NO… it will damage the motor. If you are dead set on solving your problem by slowing the motor down, then purchase a speed controller made for AC motors”
Above taken from:
Post #20
Here’s an interesting and helpful guide to understanding different types of saw blades. Choosing the right blade with the proper tooth configuration is key. If you are ripping, use a blade designed for ripping. There are many manufacturers that make 85mm diameter blades… just make sure the arbor diameter fits. Also, as mentioned above, watch your feed rate. As to a light dimmer for a speed control… NO… it will damage the motor. If you are dead set on solving your problem by slowing the motor down, then purchase a speed controller made for AC motors… not light bulbs. Hope this helps.
…henry
Your Guide to Understanding Different Saw Blade Types - Rockler
It is important to choose the right saw blade for your table saw. This useful guide from Rockler will help you explore various saw blade types. Learn more!
Maybe this will help you.
I realized that I forgot to ask what it was that you are building with styrene that requires such precision?
structures = stick x stick/ board x board.
and NO nail holes!
even @ 1:12 scale, they are a blight to the industry. i may entertain fabricating a hollow punch to make a ring, representing a nail driven flush with a wood surface here & there, but to pepper a perfectly good model with pin-holes and tell myself it looks “nailed” is beyond my ability.
i fail to understand how people who model in small scales do this and believe they have created something convincingly real.
David_ M = thank you for the additional information. i’ll dig into those references.
i’ve done business, and been satisfied w/ Rockler over the years.
Q: if anyone could tell me where the “like” button is, i’m not hesitant to give it a push on occasion.
Like always the like buttonlooks like a heart and is next to the icon that looks like a chain right next to it. Located in the bottom right of each reply box.