Craig and Devon are good friends , so Devoning must be contagious!!!
2 Likes
Cliff,
I’m trying not to think about how I’m going to do the roof… I did 400 grit sandpaper shingles on the MOw shack a while back and that was painful. And sandpaper won’t last outside so trying to come up with options. It may involve casting a thin roof shingle section? Not sure.
If I send my kids out to play, I go glue a few battens. I’m almost done now with one wall. 
Um, should we ask what the temperature is outdoors there?
Yeah, roofs… always a fun match between model making and reality. How about thin black glueable sheet that you can make look like tarpaper? Like styrene, which you can scrape and bond easily:
or even thin closed-cell neoprene sheet, for texture?
45-50 and rain… and they like it better than anything else!
1 Like
I thought/think I might have some textured sheets from my uncle’s stash of plastic I took a few years back after he closed his plastic forming business for good. I’ll have to look around and see but I really can’t remember.
1 Like
I had this problem on the Ice House. I need to re-roof it. What I am thinking now is traction tape. You know the stuff that looks like sand paper that is used on steps, skate boards, tile floors, showers, etc. It is designed for the weather and has that same gritty asphalt look.
1 Like
Oh that’s a good idea. I’ll have to go look for some of that.
I used that stuff and it holds up well. I also ended up using BLACK E6000 adhesive to represent tar on the roof. It’s UV stable and looks good.
perfect! so you basically “tarred” the seams with the E6000?
YEP. That way you don’t have to overlap the “tape” at all (which is GOOD!, since it does’t stick anyway!). You can get a pretty fine seam line, but after you do a few it doesn’t seem to matter as much. 
So, I just replied here and quoted Devon. WHY does it automatically edit AND delete that quote? (This seems to happen a LOT!)
Is there something in my preferences that I need to change? THANKS!
Sorry to sorta hijack the thread Craig but at least I am staying on topic.
So Bruce you are just butt jointing the tape and then “caulking” the seem with the E6000. That’s great much easier than trying to overlap it. I really like this plan as the overlapped sand paper, even though it was wet dry sand paper, was not a good plan.
Yep. First, I cut the tape to size - I think I used a scale 2’ x 10’ - or something like that. Maybe 4’ x 10’? Anyway, the knife dulls quickly!
Then just lay one strip to the next (butt join) and “ink” the seam with the glue. As I recall, you can get special glue tips for the E6000 so you can get a really tiny line.
This glue DOES respond to gravity, so you can get drips if you put too much down or the surface is slanted. But I ended up using the black glue for all kinds of roof top things (vents, hatches, seams, chimneys, whatever)
Yep, the wet/dry sandpaper doesn’t work nearly as well as you might think. Been there; done that.
thanks for the suggestions Bruce, I have 2 buildings I used the non skid tape on and getting it to stay down is frustrating, I will do the no seam treatment when I get a chance.
Devon and Craig, last time I was at Lowes they had packages of the non skid tape already cut in 1/2" stripsway less frustrating than cutting and killing a box of razor blades
Humm I’ll have to go take a look for 1/2" strips. Might blow my $30 budget. I can’t really tell what the prototype used but Im guessing it was probably cedar shakes based on the time frame. But other buildings around that time has asphalt shingles…
I do need this anyway for my flat roofed feed mill. I’m guessing it was tar as well.
I better slow down… I just finished the 31’ wall tonight. That didn’t take nearly as long as I expected.
But in mocking up the end and the side walls together and test fitting a roof section, I noticed I need to chamfer the edge of the wall to match the roof angle. It’s not going to take much but it needs a little something. Unless I want to be lazy and run a trim board or something along the underside.
Studying the photos again, I’ve got a pile of roof brackets to design and build as well. Such a repeating design would be a great resin print. Except I’m not sure I want to use the MIK project to learn my new resin printer. Or maybe that’s a nice easy first print? And keeping in the MIK spirit of learning new things. Humm… I’ve got resin.
Working my way around the building slowly. The two ends are done.
Started on and finished the next wall.
One more long (48’) wall to make on this end plus a short stubby wall. Then I can move back to the trackside walls. I’m sure I’ll have to include a lot of interior supports for the roof but that’s easy to make.
I’m tempted to try gluing in small magnets into the base of the building, and then once I get the area finished on the layout use screws or nail heads to “attach” the building. Don’t know if this idea would work but it’s going to need something to hold it down ( and I’m guessing at some point need to be removed for maintenance).
Your board and battens are making me rethink the mine. That really looks good.
1 Like
I don’t know if I would do this again. It’s slow. And if you had to buy the strips super expensive.
Maybe I’m missing something, but can’t you use any black paper for the challenge, and upgrade to something more permanent afterwards?