Large Scale Central

Craig's MIK build

The MIK - Annual Build Challenge
#10

The photo match tool is a handy tool but man I really like using Onshape to draw. So much easier!

Many many years ago when I was working on my feed mill I discovered this method. I remember reading an article in Model Railroader as a kid on using a photo and drawing disappearing lines to measure a model. Same method here but just with digital lines. It’s not perfect but it sure helps.

Funny how I guessed the size of certain parts and low and behold I was pretty close in my guess. I’d assume that a builder would cut a hole at say 12’ vs 11’ 10 3/4". Lol :rofl::roll_eyes:

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#11

One door done.
IMG_20220108_180425367 by Craig Townsend, on Flickr

Framing out the other two freight doors. I forgot to measure my plans and built the first 2’ smaller than they should have been. Oops. More scrap for the pile.
IMG_20220108_180450260 by Craig Townsend, on Flickr
IMG_20220108_180442999 by Craig Townsend, on Flickr

Some light putty work and sanding and they too are ready for framing.

And starting the man doors now.
IMG_20220108_180502297 by Craig Townsend, on Flickr

#12

Looks good Craig! This might be an on time on budget build!

#13

Wishful thinking… :joy: I still didn’t officially finish last year’s build.

But so far zero cost. See how long that lasts. I know I need paint for sure. But that might end up being the cheap craft paints anyway.

#14

In typical Craig fashion, I’m already making new parts again… I didn’t like the door design so I’m making new man doors. 10’ tall just seemed a bit too tall. I’m going back to a 3x7 door and I’ll add a covered transom above the doors.

Speaking of covering “glass”, I made the decision to model the depot in it’s boarded up state after a failed attempt to make windows. And it helps tell the “story” of the line as I have a building in BN white & green in the staging yard. So seeing a boarded up and abandoned building in NP colors places the layout in time.

Frame is .030x .100 and .030 x .188 stock. The opening is 24x52. Then covered with a 2’ 6" x 5’ .030 sheet for a plywood covering. Ive got one fully done and 6 more in progress. I think the bay windows are slightly taller than the rest of the building windows so I’m going to make those 24x72.

#15

I’d say its looking good but since you are already trashing parts . . .

#16

Last night I got started on laying the battens on one side. I cut these on the table saw. No perfect like the Evergreen strips, but close enough. And for a building that is just about to be torn down, I think it got weathered perfectly. Or at least that’s my story.

#17

Now I am starting to like your thinking. Imperfections in construction make excellent weathering.

#18

Nice!

I think I will be following your lead as to building condition being modeled. I love the look of in the photo of the telegraph shed I’m making, I’ll try and come close to that look complete with the bent corrugated roofing.

#19

Craigoning?

Looking great Craig! You’re really getting a lot done in a short time for a working stiff, I guess I need to get a move on…

:grin:

#20

Wow. I never thought I’d see those 3 words in a craig post!

:grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

Nice battens!

#21

Craig and Devon are good friends , so Devoning must be contagious!!!

2 Likes
#22

Cliff,
I’m trying not to think about how I’m going to do the roof… I did 400 grit sandpaper shingles on the MOw shack a while back and that was painful. And sandpaper won’t last outside so trying to come up with options. It may involve casting a thin roof shingle section? Not sure.

If I send my kids out to play, I go glue a few battens. I’m almost done now with one wall. :crossed_fingers:

#23

Um, should we ask what the temperature is outdoors there?

Yeah, roofs… always a fun match between model making and reality. How about thin black glueable sheet that you can make look like tarpaper? Like styrene, which you can scrape and bond easily:

or even thin closed-cell neoprene sheet, for texture?

#24

45-50 and rain… and they like it better than anything else!

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#25

I thought/think I might have some textured sheets from my uncle’s stash of plastic I took a few years back after he closed his plastic forming business for good. I’ll have to look around and see but I really can’t remember.

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#26

I had this problem on the Ice House. I need to re-roof it. What I am thinking now is traction tape. You know the stuff that looks like sand paper that is used on steps, skate boards, tile floors, showers, etc. It is designed for the weather and has that same gritty asphalt look.

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#27

Oh that’s a good idea. I’ll have to go look for some of that.

#28

I used that stuff and it holds up well. I also ended up using BLACK E6000 adhesive to represent tar on the roof. It’s UV stable and looks good.

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A094C938-99C2-440C-8C96-8D6F21915801_1_105_c1024×768 397 KB

#29

perfect! so you basically “tarred” the seams with the E6000?