Pete,
Need them for the MIk build? Or a different project?
I’m currently testing out a few different prints orientations but it looks like I can easily get a half dozen in one print run. You want that many? The ones I’m doing now should be enough for me for this project. I’ll probably keep a few extras on hand for just because.
Test print was a success.
Not a lot of details on this parts that I want to add anyway. Printed the clear cover as well to make sure it fit. It does.
Here’s 2 0603 SMD LED connected with the cover off.
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And here’s with a gray non transparent cover… once I get done with all the gray prints I’ll clean everything and do some clear parts.
The eventual plan is to run some 12 v landscape lights around the layout so I’ll use that as well for a power tap for buildings.
Craig,
In a well planned (supported) print is there any equivalent to filament spaghetti with resin when doing multiple pieces?
Hopefully not. With resin printing if you get a support that breaks off that’s bad for you resin vat. I learned the hard way to strain failed prints before reprinting. Had to replace the vat bottom and the LCD screen.
I’m lazy and just use the auto supports. So far I haven’t had a print fail because of support issues. I also add supports where it seems like it might be an issue as well. I’m probably overkill but I figure a few more supports are a lot better than a lot of wasted resin.
So if one of multiple prints fall off then the whole print is stuffed?
Pretty much. I have yet to have a print not stay on the build plate but that’s possible too.
Craig, not for the Mik , although they may get added at a later date if I feel it needs some extra detail.
Looking great Craig. And yes big parts are not fun when you print them and realize they were not hollow.
Well Bill,
I have a prime example of your question… I apparently don’t learn from my own mistakes.
Failed partial print, multiple parts didn’t print, popped a pinprick hole in the FEP while printing, leaked resin out. So drain and strain the resin, replace the FEP, clean the screen, try again…
As I told myself before anytime I order resin I also order new FEP sheets. Better to replace those when pinprick holes develop vs an expensive screen.
The Tenacious clear resin worked out way better than I expected. Currently waiting on some black paint to dry on the rest of the housing for all the light leaks but this is going to be a neat look. I ended up doing another run of 4 lenses just in case and for other parts of the mill.
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Those are coming out great. Will look good all done.
Today has been mostly a busy time wise. But still making progress.
Here’s a photo dump.
Last wall started.
I hope this looks like a roll up door… just some half round and T shapes.
And finally the 3D print part of the project.
2 more weekends right?
All of it is looking good great. Door looks good vents look good. But seriously dude those lights are over the top. Loving those.
Have you seen the lights for the interior of the feed mill store?
Well this is the interior and exterior ones…
That’s really turning into a succes. I want to print some lanterns and Street lights and seeing your results motivates me
Bulk packs of 100 SMD 0603 are your friends… Small enough to fit in a lot of places, still big enough to actually see. But there’s even smaller SMD.
Craig, how much voltage do they take and how will you power them?
Same voltage requirements as regular LED 1.5-3v is what I try to keep it under. Can go as high a 5v but anything beyond that and you get magic black smoke.
I use a resister most of the times but I have some CL2N3 I’ve been playing with. The CL2N3 are a LED driver that works in a similar manner to a resister but different.
I plan to run 12v landscaping lights around the layout for walkways, general lighting etc so I’ll just tap into that. Or run a special line for layout lights.
I’m looking forward to following you on that!
I second the use of 603s. they are small but like you mention bright enough to bee seen. Plan to see if I can incorporate them into the step lights for the GP9s.