Large Scale Central

Coupler heights for the different scales

Modeling Rolling stock
#1

Jon Radder brought up a good point for his new Porter.

http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=13737

"Now if I can only figure out the couplers. I’m convinced that I am going to have to scratch build new pilot beams on both ends to accommodate couplers at F Scale height. "

We have the Kadee height gauge for the “G” (larger) and the “Number 1” couplers. But what should be the heights above the rail for the different scales?

1:32
1:29 - Kadee “Number 1” height gauge or Kadee “G” height gauge.
1:24
1:22.5 - Kadee “G” height gauge
1:21.4 - Kadee “G” height gauge :slight_smile:
1:20.3
1:16

What does everyone use?

#2

I use Kadee “G” scale couplers on 1/29th… don’t model the other scales… :slight_smile:

#3

I use hook and loop. speaking of that I think you and andy have so hook and loop you would like to get rid of?

#4
Geoff George said:
I use hook and loop. speaking of that I think you and andy have so hook and loop you would like to get rid of?
I have a box marked for you. I'm guessing you aren't picking them up Saturday? ;-)
#5

For my 1:29 / 1:24 equipment I’ve standardized on Delton couplers (Aristo/Delton). All of my 1:29 & 1:24 stock was purchased RTR and coupler height has never been an issue between Aristo and USA Trains. For 1:20.3 equipment, I am using Acccucraft couplers. The height was determined by a few pieces of RTR stock that was purchased from both Bachmann and Accucraft which, surprisingly enough, lines up well together. All of my Bachmann cars have been changed over to Accucraft couplers. When I started building in 1:20, I just used an existing car to figure out the coupler height. To make life easier I built this quck-and-dirty height gauge…

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Post2/Porter_RC-011-800.JPG)

When I visited Bob’s place this fall for Trainops 2010 I brought along my Dizzie which had been modified to Accucraft couplers at my “standard height”. Even though it needed to remain tethered to it’s battery car (an Accucraft Gondola) It played nice with all of Bob’s rolling stock. Bob and Bruce both use Accucraft couplers.

(http://jbrr.com/Pics/Events/TrainOps/2010/IMG_8663.JPG)

#6

I use both the Kadee #1 and Accucraft 1:32 couplers set to 1 3/16" centerline. That’s a scale 2’ in 1:20.3

Dad’s railroad uses the Kadee #1 scale couplers set to their “standard” height for 1:32 of 1 1/16". His railroad is 1:22.5

In both cases, the #1 scale coupler represents the 3/4-sized coupler used by a number of narrow gauge railroads.

Later,

K

#7
Ric Golding said:
Geoff George said:
I use hook and loop. speaking of that I think you and andy have so hook and loop you would like to get rid of?
I have a box marked for you. I'm guessing you aren't picking them up Saturday? ;-)
I have more if you need them Geoff. Shoot me an e-mail with an address and they are yours.
#8
Kevin Strong said:
I use both the Kadee #1 and Accucraft 1:32 couplers set to 1 3/16" centerline. That's a scale 2' in 1:20.3

Dad’s railroad uses the Kadee #1 scale couplers set to their “standard” height for 1:32 of 1 1/16". His railroad is 1:22.5

In both cases, the #1 scale coupler represents the 3/4-sized coupler used by a number of narrow gauge railroads.

Later,

K


Kevin, so is 2 ft a “standard height” for narrow gauge car height of couplers above the tops of the rails? Is that the bottom of the coupler or the center of the coupler? Thanks for replying.

#9

I just body mout Bachmann couplers to match all my stock. I like to use the eye ball it height. LOL

#10

Ric, 2’ is “standard” for the East Broad Top, measured from the railhead to the centerline of the coupler. Narrow gauge lines pretty much did their own thing when it came to couplers; easy to do since they didn’t really interchange. Centerlines varied from as low as 20" to 28" depending on the railroad. (D&RGW is 26", ET&WNC is 28"), and coupler sizes varied as well. Many railroads–particularly those in the northeast–used a 3/4-sized coupler, while others used full-sized ones. (I believe some of the 2’ railroads used a half-sized coupler.)

Later,

K

#11
Kevin Strong said:
Ric, 2' is "standard" for the East Broad Top, measured from the railhead to the centerline of the coupler. Narrow gauge lines pretty much did their own thing when it came to couplers; easy to do since they didn't really interchange. Centerlines varied from as low as 20" to 28" depending on the railroad. (D&RGW is 26", ET&WNC is 28"), and coupler sizes varied as well. Many railroads--particularly those in the northeast--used a 3/4-sized coupler, while others used full-sized ones. (I believe some of the 2' railroads used a half-sized coupler.)

Later,

K


So then does this make sense?

1:32 - center of coupler 1 3/16" above the rail
1:29 - Kadee “Number 1” height gauge or Kadee “G” height gauge.
1:24 -
1:22.5 - Kadee “G” height gauge or “Number 1” scale couplers set to a “standard” height of 1 1/16" center line to rail head
1:21.4 - Kadee “G” height gauge :slight_smile:
1:20.3 - Kadee “G” or “Number 1” - 1 3/16" center line to rail head or a scale 2’ to center line from rail head.
1:17 -
1:16 -

Does that make sense or is there a better way to say it?

Anybody have input on 1:24? Gary Buchanan? How about 1:16?

#12

Rick, I use Kadee number 1’s and use a Kadee “G” height gauge that I modified to work with the number 1’s. If I remember correctly it sets the couplers at the height that give the proper clearance of the “hose” above the rails. I don’t know that I ever measured the height from the rail to any part of the coupler and I no longer leave the “hoses” on the couplers. One of those things I did a decade ago and never gave anymore thought to it. I have never operated any of my equipment off road so have no idea whether they would match anyone Else’s or not.

#13

Ric;

Since you and a few other people have been known to bring equipment to run in our operations here on the IPP&W; our standard couplers for both NG (1:22.5), and SG (1:29) is the Kadee #1 coupler. We use the Kadee coupler height gauge as our standard.
Anyone that uses the Kadee “G” couplers, can readily operate with our #1 equipped equipment, so there are no problems. Body mounting is also our standard.
I don’t care what method anyone uses to maintain a standard, but please make it a standard on all your equipment. In coupling, close is not close enough for good operation. The Kadee gauges are great. They also are a great aid in body mounting couplers, as the back of the gauge shows how much cutting or shimming you need to do to get your correct height. They are well worth the cost over the life of your railroad. They do not wear out !!

I won’t belabour my many rants on how poorly some people body mount their couplers. but I will repeat…do it properly once, and you will not have any coupler problems. Use the screws provided and they will self thred into styrene shims, if the holes are drilled to the proper size…you DON’T need oversized wood screws. Use the hole in the centre and the one at the end…they are best in most situations (820 b/m couplers). Always use two screws when mounting, if at all possible.

Good luck and happy railroading.

#14

1:32 - center of coupler 1 3/16" above the rail
1:29 - Kadee “Number 1” height gauge or Kadee “G” height gauge.
1:24 - Kadee “G” modified for “Number 1’s”
1:22.5 - Kadee “G” height gauge or “Number 1” scale couplers set to a “standard” height of 1 1/16" center line to rail head
1:21.4 - Kadee “G” height gauge :slight_smile:
1:20.3 - Kadee “G” or “Number 1” - 1 3/16" center line to rail head or a scale 2’ to center line from rail head.
1:17 - 1 3/8" from the Standards Committee
1:16 -

Good words of advice paraphrased from Father Fred Mills - “Since people have been known to bring equipment to run in our operations here on the IPP&W; our standard couplers for both NG (1:22.5), and SG (1:29) is the Kadee #1 coupler. We use the Kadee coupler height gauge as our standard. Anyone that uses the Kadee “G” couplers, can readily operate with our #1 equipped equipment, so there are no problems. Body mounting is also our standard. It doesn’t matter what method anyone uses to maintain a standard, but please make it a standard on all your equipment. In coupling, close is not close enough for good operation. The Kadee gauges are great. They also are a great aid in body mounting couplers, as the back of the gauge shows how much cutting or shimming you need to do to get your correct height. They are well worth the cost over the life of your railroad. They do not wear out !! Do it properly once, and you will not have any coupler problems. Use the screws provided and they will self thread into styrene shims, if the holes are drilled to the proper size. Use the hole in the centre and the one at the end…they are best in most situations (820 body mount couplers). Always use two screws when mounting, if at all possible.”

#15

Ric, was this a “Inquiring minds want to know” post or are you going some where with this. Just curious !

#16
Gary Buchanan said:
Ric, was this a "Inquiring minds want to know" post or are you going some where with this. Just curious !
Well, if I can keep the brain cells together, I thought I might post it in "Tools and Tips" once there was a consensus, but you know how that is in this group - today it is the gospel and tomorrow it comes with a disclaimer.
#17

I use the body mnt KD “G” on everything, with KD height gauge as guide.
If it stays together, that’s all I need.
All the 1:20.3 have that “air hose” thingy cut off. The cars come with air hoses, and my scratch cars have them installed.

#18

John, you said - "All the 1:20.3 have that “air hose” thingy cut off. "

Those things give me lots of problems. Nice detail, I hate to just cut them off, but I know the frustration. I’ve thought of just moving them out further.

Is all your stuff 1:20.3?

#19

I Use KD Body Mounted 830’s on Everything set to KD’s Height Gauge. but I do keep one car as a conversion car with the Truck mounted coupler on one end.

#20
Ric Golding said:
John, you said - "All the 1:20.3 have that "air hose" thingy cut off. "

Those things give me lots of problems. Nice detail, I hate to just cur them off, but I know the frustration. I’ve thought of just moving them out further.

Is all your stuff 1:20.3?


Ric,
It took me a long while to decide to cut those “air hoses” off as well. Now I think it is a good idea. I still have a few to cut off.
The Accucraft air hoses needed a little tweaking, either too long or too short.
And the fact that they aren’t connected to the next car.
At least the KD’s looked liked they were connected.

All my favorite stuff is 1:20.3.

There’s still a lot of 1:22.5 and 1:24 laying around, but it hasn’t been touched in years.
I’m trying to decide if I want to part with it once and for all.