Large Scale Central

Cleaning Brass Track

Track and Trestles
#1

Todd Brody said:

It’s just too damn expensive to operate for what it does and goes though disks too quickly whereas you inferred that its perfect for every situation and if it is not, it must be that the person using it has it adjusted incorrectly.

Todd

We seem to have morphed the rail to wheel contact being the weakest link thread to Brass Track cleaning. For this reason I spun this separate topic off to a new thread.

On the SJR&P we are slowly replacing all our brass track with SS track. Yes the cleaning problems are much less but the other reason is deer which mess up brass track but have no effect on SS track.

We still have a couple hundred feet of brass track left (less after the track work we are now doing) and yes we still clean it before every operating session.

As I said before we outlawed the LGB track cleaning locomotive, it cleans the track but leaves residue which is picked up by the locomotive wheels. And as you point out is expensive to operate and it is important that you run it at between 22 and 24 volts for proper operation.

Instead of using the LGB locomotive we purchased a pole sander and use #600 wet dry paper to clean the brass track. We wet the rail with a hose use the pole sander to clean and then wash it off. Sounds complicated but is actually rather fast and the rails are really clean after that. One sheet produces two sheets for the pole sander and one pole sander sheet is sufficient to clean all the brass track we have left. If you purchase 25 or 50 sheets in a bulk pack it is not expensive to use.

One other off topic comment. Looking at the photo of your track shows ties which the UV has almost destroyed. Suggest you put some UV protective paint on it shortly to extend their life.

Stan

#2

I also have a drywall pole (220 mesh) and I’ll usually go though three drywall pads, both sides, getting ready for open house. Additionally, I have an engine and various rail cars that drag drywall sanders (articulated to follow the rail) and scotchbrite pads and, a hand drywall sander, all of which get used over the course of a 2-day open house.

But all those pads are still a lot less than the LGB disks, and the track would still need “touch-up.”

#3

We use pole sanders with drywall mesh (250 grit) almost exclusively at the Colorado RR Museum. We’ve got two LGB track cleaning locos, but neither of them have cleaning pads on the wheels anymore, and I doubt they’ve been used in next to forever.

The most “problematic” track we have to clean is the 80’ or so that runs near the live steam track. It’s parallel to the steam track, but the steam track is elevated about 2 - 3’ and there’s a 4’ wide path between the two tracks. Still, there’s enough oil and gunk put out by the steamers that it noticeably coats the rails on that stretch of the “sparkie” track. That stretch of track requires some fairly heavy “scrubbing” with the pole sanders, while the rest of it generally gets a light once-over every now and again. I couldn’t tell you how often, since no one keeps a log of cleaning. I clean it if I’m testing a locomotive, as I want good contact for the tests.

Ordinarily, I much prefer the green Scotchbrite pads, as they polish the rail moreso than sand and clean it, but the club’s been using the drywall sanders with the drywall mesh for quite a while, and you can’t argue with success.

Later,

K

#4

Kevin, wouldn’t something like a damp rag be better for cleaning oil off the rails. An abrasive pad works well on dry gunk, but it tends to just push oil around.

#5

when i read all the efforts, you guys have to make, i’m content to be indoors.
any fine sanding papr, tackered to a wooden block and a little elbow movement - plus one set of LGB cleaning skates is all i need.

#6

I like scotchbright the best.

Dr. Thompson’s railroad had been unrun for 7 years. The brass track was solid black. I scrubbed the tops of the rails with scotchbright pads, connected a wire, and once you guys told me how to work the switch on his loco, the layout runs great.

I’m really impressed with split jaw clamps. He put them on all his rail joints. I was figuring we’d have to undo every section, clean the joint and so on, but EVERY ONE OF THEM had solid electrical connection.

The black rails look pretty cool.

#7

Stan Ames said:

We wet the rail with a hose use the pole sander to clean and then wash it off. Sounds complicated but is actually rather fast and the rails are really clean after that.

Exactly how I clean my brass track.
We have about 220’ total, start to finish cleaning takes about 15 minutes.

#8

Tom, yes, I am a recent convert to split jaws. They just work. I was using Hillman’s and they are failing on my railroad, one by one.

I also don’t like the look of shiny rails. In my mind only the rail heads should be shiny. Since I have stainless track, I paint my track, so only the tops of the rails are shiny.

I use a scotch-brite pad for spot cleaning, but I find that it will snag on the switch points and frogs if I am not careful.

#9

The only thing that gets on my rails is the black greasy buildup that comes from track power.

I used a scotchbrite pad, but it just loaded up with gunk and smeared it. Using something like fantastik or 409 degreased the track well. Then I found the Swiffer, which has prewetted pads and looks just like a pole sander.

That would probably be good on the track at the museum, but if we are talking the layout at golden, that’s pretty small, so the differences in time between the methods is probably not much. (I was surprised how small the track was last visit and no one running).

Greg

#10

I use a BrightBoy pad - when available here in UK from our local PX via friendly 'mercan - or the LGB track-cleaning block that leaves a faultless finish.

However, due to our location, that track needs to be clean EVERY day - it literally goes black overnight.

Mind you, with only about 150 feet of track to clean, it doesn’t take long. Our portable track - with around 350 feet, takes a bit longer. Same method though, uless we are running live-steam on one track and 'lectric on the other, in which case ti all gets done as and when we get a break from running, else everything gunks up while you watch.

tac
OVGRS

#11

David, a degreaser on a pad would probably work for the gunk on that particular stretch of track by the steam-up line, and if this were an individual’s railroad, that’d probably be the usual method. The club layout is more “maintenance by committee” and cleaning is done as needed/desired by anyone who cares to do so.

Greg, when was your last visit to the museum? If it’s been 10 years or so since your visit, then we’re definitely much larger now than what you saw. We’ve got 7 track-powered loops, with around 1500’ of track, give or take. Yeah–compared to something like Fairplex, we’re pretty small potatoes. But we’re definitely larger than many “large” backyard railroads.

Later,

K

#12

Less than 10 years.

It’s amazing what new ideas can do though, if presented as a suggestion.

Remember I said “small”, not the amount of track.

In my experience a goodly part of the effort is just getting to the track easily. (I also designed my layout to be able to walk next to the train at all points, and did not realize the payoff on track cleaning. It only takes me 5 minutes to do the entire circuit)

Regards, Greg

#13

I run SS only. A pole sander with ScotchBright pads and 10 min tops for two times around and all is great. Mostly needed to just knock the dirt and sand off the rail tops, and shove the errant ballest out of the way.

Edit: Run track power and/or DCC. It took me two days to clean up the mess when a friend ran live steam, and left steam oil over all my track.

#14

Dave, that’s what friends are for. :wink:

#15

I thought drywall sanding paper would scratch the brass track over time and cause it to get dirtier faster?
I like to use green scotchbrite pads on a pole sander. If the track is really dirty I spray a bit of goo gone onto the pad. When the pad gets old and the t rack is really dirty I will take a bucket of soapy water and dunk the pad into it then run it over the rails.

I think cleaning track is not a big chore like some think it is. Track can actually be pretty dirty and the train will still run but what needs ot be clean are the wheels on your engine and this is how I do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SURZxvppF8U

#16

If you dig deeper with the people who use this sandpaper, you will see that on metal, it “wears out” pretty quickly and it’s more of the fiberglas mesh backing doing the work.

I thought (and still do) that this is too abrasive, but since it wears quickly, the wear is less than you would think, unless you keep putting fresh on.

But, I don’t like the high abrasion initially on brass. On SS - at least H&R and Aristo, it has less abrasive effect.

Greg

#17

Hard to say at the museum. The mesh tends to catch on loose ballast, rail joints, and pretty much anything else that can reach out and grab it. How long they last before they get replaced, I haven’t a clue. If I need to clean the track for some reason, I usually just grab the first sanding pole I see and give it a once-over glance to make sure there are no tears.

I took a photo for a recent article on cleaning track that showed one rail cleaned with the mesh, the other with the Scotchbrite. There’s a decidedly noticeable visual difference between the two. I think from an aesthetic standpoint, the polished look of the Scotchbrite-cleaned rail is certainly more appealing (looks cleaner). From a practical standpoint, there are no operational issues with the “sanded” track at the museum, so I’m not sure what I’d be looking for in terms of trying to make some kind of comparison.

In defense of the mesh, I used a Bright Boy abrasive sander for my HO track when I used to do HO. It was largely regarded as “the way” to clean your track. My electrical problems on that railroad were centered around locomotive pick-ups, not clean track.

Later,

K

#18

Just wondering if a homemade tank car filled with a reasonably cheap cleaning type fluid fed thro’ to pads held by pressure, down onto the rail would do the job.
No need for large diameter feed pipes (and maybe another car behind with dry pads following up.)
If it works be less wear and scratching of the rail.

#19

I think I recall this tank method as having been tried Ross, but it was not a great success as far as I remember. I would be concerned about any possible effects on the ties.

I guess many variations of this theme have been tried so it might be interesting to hear from other Forum Members about this.

#20

I use the scotch bright pad on a pole sander also, but only use it when the track is really dirty.
I usually run a trackman 2000 in a small train.

This to has the scotch bright pads.
I some times will run a Aristo track cleaning caboose with it.
Of course the leaf blower is in front!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-3ol72uL14[/youtube]