Large Scale Central

Challenger Bash from two Pacifics

General Discussion
#1

Been working on bashing a Challenger from two Pacifics.

I used a Graupner u-joint to hook the motor for the front drive(which is mounted on the front of the rear drive). That made it all work pretty well. Both drives came from used plastic rod Pacifics. Not sure the new drive with the motor hanging straight out the back would work very well or not. Here’s a video of the chassis test run, did okay, so now working on all the details. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYNuyWQeBCo

#2

Now that’s cool. Is it articulated or are the two drives fixed in place?
Dave

#3

Looking good so far Jerry.

Looking at the rod action made me wonder. In the real world, are the front and rear cylinders timed or do they run independent. If timed, how the heck did they keep them in time ?

#4

Looking good Jerry! Are you ready to take on some of my unfinished work?

#5

Awesome project!

#6

Thanks guys,
The front drive does articulate, it’s motor is fastened to the front of the rear drive. It connects to the front drive mech via the Graupner u-joint that I got from Hobby Lobby. I use the same u-joint on my Zephyr(the brass one was wearing bad). http://www.hobby-lobby.com/ujoint.htm

#7

I finished up the tender for the Challenger. I was going to use the USA side frames from their Big Boy tender, but they were $90. I thought mine looked fine, after I painted them.

(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/jerrybarnes/Challenger%20Kitbash%20Build/ChallTnderComparsn.JPG)

(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/jerrybarnes/Challenger%20Kitbash%20Build/ChallTnderDoneSide.JPG)

(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/jerrybarnes/Challenger%20Kitbash%20Build/ChallTndrDoneFront.JPG)

(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/jerrybarnes/Challenger%20Kitbash%20Build/ChallTndrDoneRear.JPG)

#8

Looking good. The side frames are really nice.

#9

Awesome!! What’s the total length gonna be?

I picked up 2 MTH Challengers for a friend in OZ and had them shipped via the USPS…them things were massive. I had to chop the box in half to mail each engine in 2 pieces…

#10

Tender is 18.5" long, stands almost 7" above the tracks. I think the loco works out to about 32", so total is over 4’. May have to make a carrier to haul it from my shed to the track! I have one for my live steam Mikado, may be able to carry the loco in it anyway. The centipede tender is a pain to get on the tracks, with all those wheels!

#11

Jerry , you’re going to need to wear a truss to carry the thing. It is awesome though.
Dave

#12
Jon Radder said:
Looking good so far Jerry.

Looking at the rod action made me wonder. In the real world, are the front and rear cylinders timed or do they run independent. If timed, how the heck did they keep them in time ?


Jon - they are independent of each other, and run in and out of sync as the locomotive runs. Have a listen to any big artic on YouTube [or a small one for that matter - we have a few of them here in UK running on two-foot gauge], and you will hear them start off together and then run in and out of sync as the slip or lose adhesion and pick up again.

Some sound-systems, like the one in the MTH locos, actuall replicates this out-of-sync sound effect - REALLY COOL!!!

Even the sound systems on my H0 Allegheny and Challengers do it…

tac

#13
Jerry Barnes said:
Tender is 18.5" long, stands almost 7" above the tracks. I think the loco works out to about 32", so total is over 4'. May have to make a carrier to haul it from my shed to the track! I have one for my live steam Mikado, may be able to carry the loco in it anyway. The centipede tender is a pain to get on the tracks, with all those wheels!
Jerry, invest a few of those hard-earned $$$ in the longest Split-Jaw railer - it's SOOOOOOOOO useful when you have a loco or tender with lots of wiggly bits hanging down to load on the track.

tac

#14
Jerry Barnes said:
Thanks guys, The front drive does articulate, it's motor is fastened to the front of the rear drive. It connects to the front drive mech via the Graupner u-joint that I got from Hobby Lobby. I use the same u-joint on my Zephyr(the brass one was wearing bad). http://www.hobby-lobby.com/ujoint.htm
Hmmmm, just like the real thing - only on our models [H0, MTH, USA, Accucraft et al] do BOTH engine units articulate. You are going to need some wide-open curves there, J.

tac

#15
Terry A de C Foley said:
Jon Radder said:
Looking good so far Jerry.

Looking at the rod action made me wonder. In the real world, are the front and rear cylinders timed or do they run independent. If timed, how the heck did they keep them in time ?


Jon - they are independent of each other, and run in and out of sync as the locomotive runs. Have a listen to any big artic on YouTube [or a small one for that matter - we have a few of them here in UK running on two-foot gauge], and you will hear them start off together and then run in and out of sync as the slip or lose adhesion and pick up again.

Some sound-systems, like the one in the MTH locos, actuall replicates this out-of-sync sound effect - REALLY COOL!!!

Even the sound systems on my H0 Allegheny and Challengers do it…

tac
www.ovgrs.org


Thanks TAC. I thought that was probably how it worked. Keeping them in sync would be a mechanical nightmare.

#16

Looking good Jerry. Yep might want to invest in one of those railers to put the loco and tender on the track. I bought one and sure made it a lot easier to put locos on the track. Later RJD

#17

What do those railers look like guys? I’ve heard of them, but never seen one. The carrier I made sits on top of the rails and you can roll it right off and be on the track and run it back on when done. Have to be sure to cut off the power first!

TAC I have 20’ diameter curves, it tracks around fine.

#18

I am using two Pacific boilers for the Challenger. I cut them right at the safeties and then have a 8.25" gap to fill in. I made up some wood bulkheads to attach them to and it gives me a good surface to curve the plastic over to fill in the gap.

(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/jerrybarnes/Challenger%20Kitbash%20Build/ChallBoilerBlkHds.JPG)

I also spent hours heating up the screws and taking off the Pacific wheels. I moved the center wheel, with the crank to the rear, so I can have the long rod running up to the pistons that the Challengers have. I also put on the Boxpox ‘hubcaps’ to disguise the Pacifics wheels some.

(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/jerrybarnes/Challenger%20Kitbash%20Build/ChallBxPxCaps.JPG)

#19

Here’s a shot of my Challenger with the boiler/cab fitted on. I used some hardware store plastic sign material to fill in, some thicker plastic is underneath. Having fun, but a LONG ways to go!

(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/jerrybarnes/Challenger%20Kitbash%20Build/ChallBoilerFit.JPG)

Castings are by Roberts Lines.

#20

Looks super Jerry, good idea using the plastic signs to make the the cab and boiler extension. Keep at it.

Chuck