Large Scale Central

Castle Build

Modeling
#1

I’m almost done with adding buildings to my layout. I’ve a mix of hand-constructed, CMS, and Piko buildings. The last thing I’m going to build from scratch is a castle. I’m working on the plan right now.

I have made some progress on smaller features I want to incorporate as well as the overall castle layout. I wanted to get a feeling for the size of what I drew, since a lot of things are too massive to model when scaled to 1:22.5 (The Hindenburg, for example, would be about 35 feet long).

The last bit I need to do to figure it out is the towers… which as you can see I’m planning to construct out of PVC pipe. I’ve built roofs using Hirst Arts castings that just fit a 6" piece of PVC.

That one’s pretty ugly, but it should be able to be cleaned up. The white spots are from where it’s been damaged sitting on the garage floor over the last year.

Anyway, in order for the PVC pipe towers to work, I need a way to cut windows into the sides of the pipe. Probably I’ll use some commercial windows, with the back scored so they can be bent to follow the curve of the “wall.” Another possibility is to laser cut some out of thin styrene, which is more flexible. But either way, I need a method for cutting out the windows in the pipe.

My first thought was to drill a hole near the correct size and then use files or a small saw to square the hole. Another option is to drill a small hole and then use a Dremel with a cutting bit to carve out the windows. But before I get into all that, I was wondering if anyone here has done something similar and/or if someone has a better idea…

#2

Think you have your options figured out Dan. However one more option would be a vinyl printed overlay depicting the entire tower. I do like the roof!

#3

Thanks Rooster. I hadn’t thought of that, but it’s a good possibility. I was planning to put actual texture on the turrets, but a vinyl wrap might be a lot easier. I’d just have to be sure however it’s printed it could hold up to the sunlight.

#4

I don’t think you said but are your towers going to be covered or scored or something to represent stone?

I think that normally on a curved stone surface things like doors and windows are inset in the wall so that they maintain a flat surface. Even openings with no framing or glazing usually have the stone squared back to match the outside opening.

Just a thought

Rick

#5

Good points, Rick.

I agree that the glazing and panes should be flat, but as far as the openings, I was hoping to have a raised section where the vertical edges are flush with the wall while tops and bottoms follow the curve of the tower. I thought about the possibility of somehow etching or scoring this into the PVC, but I’m partly counting on it to cover any imperfections in my hole cutting technique.

I have a couple of ideas for texturing the walls. My plan (at the moment) is to apply textured paint to simulate the plaster and whitewash finish that a lot of medieval castles had, rather than trying to represent bare stones. I’m not sure how that will turn out, so I have several plan "b"s (plans “c” “d” and “e”?)

One option is to apply pin-striping tape to the pipe, masking off the inter-block “grout” areas, and then coat it with textured paint. Two thick coats of that should raise the surface about 1/8" and once I peel off the tape it should have a pattern like large stones. Alternatively, I could spray on the two heavy coats of texture and then scrape it off “between stones” using the flat of a miniature screwdriver.

I thought about scoring the PVC, but I’m not sure how easy it would be to make uniform scores for both the courses and the individual bricks. I also thought etching in random pattern stone with the dremel, but that seems like an awful lot of work, and on a rounded surface I’m not sure how easy it would be to get a uniform depth.

Thanks for the ideas.

#6

What about round windows? Just a thought

#7

I have seen curved windows on more modern structures, but I do have to wonder if the castle builders of old had the technology to curve glass.

#8

Apparently not: found this, http://www.wychavon.gov.uk/documents/10586/157693/wdc-planning-her-windowsleaflet12.pdf

Pre 16th century windows were constructed from stone mullions or timber frames with unglazed
openings. They could be closed by use of sliding or folding wooden shutters, oiled cloth, paper or even
thin sheets of horn. Glazed windows were used only for the highest status buildings and were
constructed of small panes of glass quarrels, (also known as quarries), held together in a lattice of
lead strips (cames). The lead was quite soft, so it was usually reinforced with iron bars either
vertically (stanchions) or horizontally (saddle bars).

#9

As long as you are not going to do any interior details or interior lighting, you could simply paint the window openings on.

Years ago I made a barn and I used Precision Products windows. Since I didn’t really need to do any interior details, I just painted the panes of the windows black. From 5 feet away it just looks like the building is dark inside.

I’m guessing that there wouldn’t be much to see inside a castle turret anyway.

Just a thought. Carry on.

-Kevin.

#10

dieseldude . said:
As long as you are not going to do any interior details or interior lighting, you could simply paint the window openings on. Years ago I made a barn and I used Precision Products windows. Since I didn’t really need to do any interior details, I just painted the panes of the windows black. From 5 feet away it just looks like the building is dark inside. I’m guessing that there wouldn’t be much to see inside a castle turret anyway. Just a thought. Carry on. -Kevin.

That’s an idea, but I think I’ll probably light at least some of the windows. Most of my layout is lighted, and I like looking at it out the dining room window at night…

#11

Wow! Great looking lights (and layout), Dan.

Shouldn’t a castle have flaming torches hung around it for lighting? I’m thinking LED tea lights, maybe (the flickering type)?

Your layout pictures are awesome.

-Kevin.

#12

they make all sorts of flickering LED’s

#13

Castle tower:

Note: tall, thin, for protection of archers. Glass, if any, was recessed.

Interior of Castle Tower.

Note recessed, flat windows. Whether these are original to the 14th Century, I dunno.

Interesting tower with turret on top.

#14

Steve old enough to know these things(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)

Looking at Steve’s offerings drill a round hole for the top and use a file or key hole say to cut the bottom.

#15

I would find the windows I like, leave them flat and file the opening to fit them snug. You paint them stone color, or a contrasting color, what ever you like. If you recess them they don’t need to be bent. If I remember correctly that is how light houses are built .

#16

the guy who planned/built this tower was a left handed idiot.

imagine two guys with swords fighting on this spiral stairs…

the attacker pushing up has much more freedom to swing his sword, than the defender fighting downstairs.

nearly every tower was built with spiral stairs that went up turning right, giving the defenders the advantage.

#17

maybe the king was left handed.

#18

Made some more progress… but have another cutting question.

Here’s where things stand on the main building

You can see a false start on the arcade arches :slight_smile: I drew a rough outline of where the roof of the living quarters will meet the turret, but I need one of you ingenious modelers to suggest how to mark the angled roof so that the cut out section fits the turret. My rough outline was made by holding the PVC above the roof and tracing, but obviously it’s not exact as the pipe wasn’t touching the roof.

Please chime in with brilliant ideas :slight_smile:

#19

Use a piece of cardboard for the roof and make your cuts on that. Then when you have the right cut tranfer it to the roof material.

If you have a compass,(not the direction kind), use it to scribe a line on the cardboard, with the conduit next to the building. Use a smaller piece that doesn’t go above the side of the building.

#20

This is the kind of thing where it is either calculus and trigonometry, or multiple attempts at eyeballing templates.

Thirty years ago I would have known the old school way to do it on a drafting board with a 3 view.