Large Scale Central

Calling all bridge inspectors

Track and Trestles
#1

Rodney, Fred and all are doing their best to convince me to put proper ties on the bridge I am rehabilitating. This is a extremely low budget project, so if it can’t be made with materials on-hand it’s not getting done. What I have on hand is small pieces of PVC board. I did my due diligence and researched several prototype bridges. Most of the bridges I examined appeared to have the following specs: Bridge Ties: 8" x 8" - Length varies by gauge and inclusion of walkways Tie spacing: 3" to 6" Guard Timbers: 4" x 8" So how do standard PVC sizes compare? Falling back once again to 1:20.32 being the same as 15mm per foot (45mm track = 3 foot gauge), I come up with the following… 3mm PVC Board is about 2.5 scale inches thick (Actual 2.4") 6mm PVC Board is about 5 scale inches thick (Actual 4.8") 12mm PVC Board is about 9.5 scale inches thick (Actual 9.6") I think this are close enough to be usable… 9.5" x 9.5" x 8’ Bridge Ties - 5" x 9.5" Bridge Timbers in 8’ and 16’ lengths

I cut up a a whole bunch of the above shapes so I could lay out a test section and experiment with assembly methods. PVC sure does make a mess when you rip cut it :smiley: Could use the sawdust for scale snow if I kept it clean. Somewhat like a Jenga puzzle, I laid out a 24 scale foot section. I used both 3mm (2.5") and 6mm (5") spacing to compare the look…

I think I like the 6mm spacing at left best. The over-size ties look a little better spaced a bit further apart. This is going to look a little clunky with my 1:29 and 1:24 stuff, but should look OK with 7/8’s if I ever go there. SO… If I can figure out how to build this into a long section, color it and spike rail to it - will it pass muster? Do you prefer the close or wide spacing ? I’m not planning on guard rails. Several of the prototypes that I looked at don’t have them, and because this is a lift-out they would add more complexity to that function.

Rehab of the West Escap`e Bridge
#2

Jon, personally, I like a little space between the ties… not more than 1/3 of a tie width…

MTCW… :slight_smile:

#3

Looks all lagged out to me. And only 2 spikes, per tie, per rail so you get off easy with that pic. Borrow Bobs spiker Jon. :slight_smile:

#4

Good luck with all those nut, bolt and washer castings…:wink:

#5

Yeah, I’m thinkin’ that this bridge will have spiked guard timbers, not bolted ones :smiley: This is the picture I measured for spacing…

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Post2/Tie_SpacingSM.JPG)

This is a little more than 1/3 tie width spacing. My “wide” spacing is 2/3 a tie and my “narrow” is 1/3 of a tie. I have a bunch of reasons why I’m leaning to the “wide” spaced version.

#6

I’d lean more toward the wider spacing myself. Less work, and who’s gonna notice?..:wink:

#7

Not to mention your location in the winter. I am not sure whether this will be outdoors during foul weather, but the smaller spacing could allow water to wick and freeze.

My tuppence.

Bob C.

#8
Ken Brunt said:
I'd lean more toward the wider spacing myself. Less work, and who's gonna notice?...............;)
Rooster will notice.... He'll peck that bridge apart..... :)
#9
Andy Clarke said:
Rooster will notice.... He'll peck that bridge apart..... :)
Nope...Jon's nice too me unlike my old man!
Ken Brunt said:
Good luck with all those nut, bolt and washer castings.............;)
I don't know Jon but in looking at the prototype pic it almost looks like you might get away with small pop rivets if you feel like drilling the holes.
#10

There are almost as many different ways of building bridge decks as there are bridges. This one one is on the active portion of the EBT. It was re-built a month or so before this photo was taken 2004…

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Post2/EBT_RunkRd.JPG)

I decided on the “wide” spacing. I built a jig from PVC and glued up a 24 scale foot section. I decided to use a single 5/8" brad per tie on the guard timbers The indentation is visible through the paint which is drying now or there would be pictures :slight_smile: Edit to add that I also did a spiking test. I could use some better spiking pliers, but I had no trouble pushing 1/2" spikes into the PVC without drilling. 1 tap with a nail set seems to tighten them right up. Now if I can only find the package of them I bought years ago !

#11

I think since I am using Code 332, 250 is going to work just fine for the guard rails. Jon that’s an excellent reference photo.

#12

That is an excellent reference photo. notice the use of guage rods as well…never noticed that before on other photos.

#13

When Jon and I took the speeder ride at the EBT in 2009, the section of track we rode on had nothing but those rods holding the track in gauge.

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/EBT%202009%20Day%202/2009_EBT38.jpg)

They’re not noticeable in the picture, but what is noticeable is they’re are no ties left.

#14

6" spacing
Less ties
more space foe the Snow to melt
It’s your rail road and over all no one caries a ruler!
Sean

#15
Sean McGillicuddy said:
6" spacing Less ties more space foe the Snow to melt It's your rail road and over all no one caries a ruler! Sean
Whats a ruler. :)
#16

A ruler is the lady who lives in the house with you.

#17

for my trussbridge i made the spaces as wide as the sleepers. that does not look too heavy and is easy to build.

(http://kormsen.info/bridges/bruecke1-7.JPG)

#18

That’s what I do, too, Korm. Use ties as spacers, and keep moving down while I’m building.

#19

I’d end up putting the spike in the spacer. Been there, done that more than a couple of times :frowning:

#20

All of my bridges are “tie spaced” as well.
No rulers or RC’s allowed! :slight_smile: :slight_smile: