if you want to go “belt and braces”, you could get some flat irons (band-iron), drill holes through the outer wall into the points of your “joisters” (new word for me) and fix the band-irons with setscrews. the flatirons would press the outer wall like hooks to the joisters,
that would be similar to the former “wall-anchors” the europeans used for brickwalls not to bulge outwards.
The metal rafter ties are not a bad idea and as for the snow load, the rafters are already tied at the ridge peak (as you stated and I can see) besides that shed looks to have about a 8-12 pitch. If you really want to concern yourself with snow loads then just get some 6x6 iron posts and run them right down the middle.
Twenty years ago while working for a property developer I had the occasion to research the look of these wall anchors, that we call Earthquake Bolts in New England. The architect for one of their new buildings included them as a non functional detail. It was my job to design and source them. This is just a few of the pictures I took around Danbury, CT in my research…
I’ve spent the last two hours scrolling through pictures from that era to try and find my final design. I finally settled on this shot being the best I could find. They are cast resin stars with a big square RR nut & bolt in the center…
I still have a number of them and do plan on using them as decoration when I find them!
So, I was complaining to Marilyn that after hours of searching, I couldn’t find a detail photo of the ones I have. She asked if I’m talking about the star sitting on a box in the spare bedroom!
This is the original, before I had them add the nut & bolt casting to close the hole…
first worlders! - every thing has to be fancy.
what i did demand for insuring against storm damage were simple band irons, about one inch wide and six long. (or iron angles 1 by 1 and six inches long) with a hole in each end.
just to bolt the brickwalls to the roof beams.
(that makes sure, that storms not only steal the roof, but destroy the uppermost layers of brickwalls too) 
rules are rules…
Kind of the way I feel about hurricane ties. I’m adding them, but I’m just ensuring that the entire building will move as it is not anchored to the ground.
The local lumber supply had some Simpson ties in stock at 40% off. The ones they had are old stock and not symmetrical. Somehow I managed to grab almost an even number of rights and lefts from a common bin! No one local had the correct screws and I want to keep moving so these will do. I am only using one per rafter attaching to the joist as the rafter is too high to get all 4 screws in. The joists each have 5 3" nails attaching them to the rafters…
I did manage to get one bale of insulation hung. I started at the front and you can see that I got better at it as I neared the rear…
Super cold arrives in a few days. I’m pushing to get the cieling closed in but I don’t know if I will make it. All this needs to move so I can hang the rest…
No matter what you do/did structurally it is way better than what you started with.
nice angles!
for wood on wood they look fine.
and looking factory made i’m sure, they are more economic, than our angles, prepared by the village smith.
A little more progress. A bunch of stuff was moved and the south end cieling joists are insulated…
When I went to install the hurricane ties on the other end I realized that the wall is already completed to the ceiling so they would be on the finished side. I opted to just use right angles for those 4 joists.
Tomorrow I’ll install the last two South end joists and insulate. I may hang a tarp at that point to keep some of the heat in the insulated area.
I would skip the blue and get two green ones with some nice rods and finials along with gold tasseled tie backs. That way you can call them portieres and not tarps which would be appropriate for the EBT theme.
I’ve only been putting in half days for a while as there has been other stuff to do. Since the last update I have installed all of the joists on the south end of the storage opening and hung what insulation I had left from an open bag…
I then moved on to attaching the last of the storage deck. This will be a nice cold storage space. 6 foot wide and this end is about 12 feet deep…
Today I got a late start. I ran some wire through 3 more bays and installed a shop height quad outlet. Once that was done, air gaps in the siding were caulked and the insulation re-installed. With this new outlet functional I have eliminated the last extension cable and am completely on permanent internal wiring…
Next up is moving the stored insulation and a row of boxes so I can continue with joists on the north end.
Atta boy Jon, soldier on! Looks great!
Jon are you putting up a moisture barrier with your insulation?
Yes, to the extent that the Kraft paper is rated for. No additional plastic.
Your laughing emoji make me think you don’t think the paper is a valid vapor barrier. This from the specification sheet:
Water Vapor Permeance (perms) of Kraft faced insulation:
Test Method: ASTM E96
Value: 1.0
Foil faced is listed with a value of 0.5. I have no idea what all that means!
I had stains show up in the ceiling of our house, asked at the local lumber yard (not the big box places) and he asked if we put a plastic vapor barrier up yes we did he said it’s trapping the moisture and staining the sheet rock. Now I don’t know but makes sense I guess.
It means you have done it correctly and you need to move on!
You’ve gotta love Home Depot dimensional lumber 
I spent the extra for their “Premium” lumber. I bought 20 of the 14 footers. I’m getting down to the last 6 now and nearly every one of them is twisted. Some so bad that screws will not pull them in. This has been my solution for a few of them…
After using the ratchet strap to pull out the twist I attached it with both screws and nails. I’d like to leave the strap in place for a day or two but I’m concerned that it has deflected the front wall some. Hopefully that will spring back when I release the tension SLOWLY.
Yeah Mark, that can be a nightmare.
We have a material called tyvek here. It’s a breathable water / air barrier, sort of like goretex, used for making rain jackets and wind cheaters.
They do a cool little demo below.
We have Tyvek here too, but the house was built before it was available and the thing to do at the time was to use plastic for a vapor barrier.
