Hi Jon,
Very nice work on the flat car. I would not bother sanding the deck, looks good the way it is. How do you plan on enlarging the tank?
Chuck
Chuck Cole said:
Hi Jon,Very nice work on the flat car. I would not bother sanding the deck, looks good the way it is. How do you plan on enlarging the tank?
Chuck
Thanks Chuck. You’ll have to ask Bart that tank question. CVSRy has outsourced the tank lengthening to the WV&K Shops. Early reports indicate that 3.5"OD PVC Pipe is a direct fit. The tank and specs were shipped a few weeks ago, but now that Bart is working and driving an hour each way he’s kind of short on time
Well now that y’all mention it…I’ll hop right in…first of all we have you basic Bachmann tank…
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/bart_salmons/tankcarlengthening/tanklength01.jpg)
First thing to do was liberate the tank from the underlaying flat car. Inspection revealed that the tank was composed of 4 pieces…an upper and lower barrel and two end caps, which were securely glued in place. Since I was gonna be slicing and dicing anyways, I started at the bottom and cut out the center section of the bottom part which allowed me to pop out the rest of the bottom, and then remove the end caps…note the bulk of the Bmann detail bit on the dome course including handrail stanchions and ladders can be reused! The stanchions are also on the end caps, so a little time with a wire coathanger and using the old handrails for a pattern will make it real easy to remake an otherwise terribly fiddly detail…
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/bart_salmons/tankcarlengthening/tanklength02.jpg)
So I want to add length to either side of the dome course (6.5" on each side to bring the tank up to Radderspec) so I used the good ol fashioned razorsaw to slice off the tank barrels…Even has a nice flange to use as an edge guide…
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/bart_salmons/tankcarlengthening/tanklength03.jpg)
So basically whatcha end up with is the center and endcaps…
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/bart_salmons/tankcarlengthening/tanklength04.jpg)
So…with a little minor work 3.5" PVC is a perfect standin for the tank barrel. Just a section of it on either side of the dome course then reapply the end caps. Since this tank is going on a flat car I think a simple butt joint will work just fine. More fotos on Tues or Wed when I get more time to work on it…
Looking good Bart! Thanks for the update. You are a master with the razor saw. My cuts would have been all over the place
Hehehe No…I’m a master of a belt sander…
Neat. I’m trying to figure out that bottom part - is it a full 180 degrees, or something smaller?
Bart,
What’s the Folgers Black Silk taste like? I personally like coffee real dark perhaps with a dish rag for a filter. Oh and a splash of cream or milk. No fancy crap for me.
YOU CUT UP A PERFECTLY GOOD TANK CAR!!!..lookin good;)
David Russell said:Nope, not perfectly good. Big glaring error in the reporting marks. Should be UTLX but some how in china that translated to UTIX. As far as I know that error in the pad printing layout was never corrected. BTW - that never bothered me, but it sounds like a good reason to cut it up.
[i][/i]YOU CUT UP A PERFECTLY GOOD TANK CAR!!!....lookin good;)
Lots of progress today. I spent most of the day in the shop drilling holes and mounting details. [url=lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_10_1200.JPG]
(http://lsc.cvsry.com//EBTTank/Wood_Flat_10_720.JPG)
[/url][color=blue]Side View w/ Bachman 1:20 Flat - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] [url=lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_11_1200.JPG]
(http://lsc.cvsry.com//EBTTank/Wood_Flat_11_720.JPG)
[/url][color=blue]Brake End - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] [url=lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_12_1200.JPG]
(http://lsc.cvsry.com//EBTTank/Wood_Flat_12_720.JPG)
[/url][color=blue]FF: Non-Brake End - Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] I ran into one major problem with the queens posts. After the posts were installed I noticed they were awfully long. I checked the parts list and I purchase thed called for 12" posts, but looking at the drawing, the correct size is more like 6-8". The 12" posts will put the truss rods way too close to the rail. I guess I have no choice other than to break them off and get the correct length posts. [url=lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_13_1200.JPG]
(http://lsc.cvsry.com//EBTTank/Wood_Flat_13_720.JPG)
[/url][color=blue]Queen Posts - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] I screwed up the lighting on this shot, but it illustrates the queen post problem pretty well. [url=lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_14_1200.JPG]
(http://lsc.cvsry.com//EBTTank/Wood_Flat_14_720.JPG)
[/url][color=blue]Roster Shot - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] So, other than couplers it looks like I’m done until I can get more parts. I hate to pay $9 shipping on a $3 set of posts, but I may have to.
Fantastic work, Jon. It sure took on detail when the parts were added.
Hi Jon,
Car looks good with all the parts on. Just a thought on the queen posts, take them off, file off the mounting pad, drill the needel beams half the length of the queen posts glue the posts into the holes and you wind up with 6 inch queen posts. Should work depending how fussy you want to be with the bottom of the car.
Chuck
Thanks Chuck. I’m not modeling any of the brake detail so I guess that would be OK. Maybe I can cut them above the bottom detail then drill. That would save damaging the cedar needle beam and maintain the base detail. Hmm.,… That kind of works for me
Today was coupler day. I dug through my in-stock couplers looking at Bachman 1:22 & 1:20.3, USA, Aristo/Delton & Kadeee. I probably would have tried the Kadees but what I have are for truck mounting with the oftest shanks. My next choice was Bachman 1:20 since that’s what all my 1:20 rolling stock uses. Unfortunately all the Bachman 1:20 couplers I have are the lift-shank to mate with their 1:22 stock. My next choice was Aristo/Delton as they look similar and mate with the Bachman 1:20 couplers. Looking at the coupler and thinking about mounting options, I decided that the best method was to liberate the draft gear from the Aristo Delton trucks I am using and attach it just behind the end sill under the end beam on a small piece of filler I palced between the center sills. [url=lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_15_1200.JPG]
(http://lsc.cvsry.com//EBTTank/Wood_Flat_15_720.JPG)
[/url][color=blue]Coupler end view - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] [url=lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_16_1200.JPG]
(http://lsc.cvsry.com//EBTTank/Wood_Flat_16_720.JPG)
[/url][color=blue]Coupler & Draft Gear - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] Note in the photo above I ground the draft gear down a bit to allow the wheels to swing a little further. [url=lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_17_1200.JPG]
(http://lsc.cvsry.com//EBTTank/Wood_Flat_17_720.JPG)
[/url][color=blue]Height match with modified Connie - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] The height match was just dumb luck. I didn’t measure since it was impossible to go higher and easy to adjust lower with shims. Once the couplers were proven to line up with both my Connie and Bachman 1:20 stock, it was time for an operational test. The outdoor line is ice snow/icebound until we get a good thaw, so I had to settle for running around the balloon track several times. The wheels will track through R1 switches but I’m sure they won’t do that coupled. [url=lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_18_1200.JPG]
(http://lsc.cvsry.com//EBTTank/Wood_Flat_18_720.JPG)
[/url][color=blue]Operational Test - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] A crowd of 1:32 dwarfs has gathered at Honey Grove to oogle the CVSR’ys latest car before it heads to the paint shop/ [url=lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_19_1200.JPG]
(http://lsc.cvsry.com//EBTTank/Wood_Flat_19_720.JPG)
[/url][color=blue]Operational Test Complete! - FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] On the queen post problem, I sent a quick email to Clem at Warrior Run. He has the 8" in stock and will send by 1st class mail saving me a big shipping charge. So the next challenge is removing the ones I epoxied on 
Hi Jon,
Your car is looking good. Glad to see you worked out the coupler and queen post problem. Clem has a good assortment of partson hand, at least he did when I was up there back in Oct.
Between you and Rick working on these tankers I took the plunge and cut one up. I will end up with a finished car 20 inches long and almost 5 inches wide. I’m using the b-man plastic deck cut in 3 peices to extend it, with wood sides and coffee stir sticks for the deck.
I cut the tank in 3 peices, I’m planning on using pvc pipe to connect the peices together, and wrap the outside with .005 plastic.
Chuck
Jon,
Heat breaks down epoxy and makes it easy to remove. However, heat also disolves white metal castings pretty fast. You might be able to dissolve them away, but that seems a little radical. Maybe try a hot air gun or air dryer and concentrate that on the attachment area. Hot air should not harm the wood over a short period of time (only drying it out) and might loosen the epoxy. Next to that, I would try cutting off almost flush and drill out with drill bit smaller than hole. What ever you do will be hidden by installation of new pieces and paint.
Ric - Thanks for the advice. I have a nice heat gun that concentrates a lot of heat in a very small area. I’ll give that a try. The razor saw approach was one I already thought of. I don’t want to try and break them off as I’m sure the soft cedar will just pull away with the part.
The good part is that they have no pins, just flat bottoms - that should make it easier.
Bruce Chandler said:The bottom section is prolly only a third of the total barrel.....
Neat. I'm trying to figure out that bottom part - is it a full 180 degrees, or something smaller?
Ric Golding said:
Jon,Heat breaks down epoxy and makes it easy to remove. However, heat also disolves white metal castings pretty fast. You might be able to dissolve them away, but that seems a little radical. Maybe try a hot air gun or air dryer and concentrate that on the attachment area. Hot air should not harm the wood over a short period of time (only drying it out) and might loosen the epoxy. Next to that, I would try cutting off almost flush and drill out with drill bit smaller than hole. What ever you do will be hidden by installation of new pieces and paint.
I took your advice today using a small heat gun Marilyn bought for craft work I heated the queesnspost until they were hot to the touch. At that point they just popped free of the epoxy with very slight horizontal pressure. They came off cleanly without damaging the wood. A little more heat and scraping with an exacto blade cleaned up the beams making them ready for the new posts.
I have the shorter quennsposts installed now and have bent some brass wire and installed it as truss rods. The next step is to cut them and install the turnbuckles. As soon as that’s done I’ll take some progress pictures.
Thanks Ric !
Thanks to Clem at Warrior Run I was able to pick up a single pack of queensposts without paying a huge shipping charge. Today was Truss Rod day. I started by removing the 12" queensposts previously installed and epoxying on the new 5" qeenspost castings. I then cut and bent 3/16 brass rod for truss rods and epoxied them to the qeensposts and the car. Then using Wayne Spence’s method, I cut out a section of the truss rods between the queensposts to install the turnbuckles. The last step was to trim a piece of lumber to fit between the turnbuckles to lock them in place. Here are some shots of the progress. [url=lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_20-1280.jpg]
(http://lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_20-720.jpg)
[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] [url=lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_21-1280.jpg]
(http://lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_21-720.jpg)
[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] [url=lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_22-1280.jpg]
(http://lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_22-720.jpg)
[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] [url=lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_23-1280.jpg]
(http://lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_23-720.jpg)
[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] [url=lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_24-1280.jpg]
(http://lsc.cvsry.com/EBTTank/Wood_Flat_24-720.jpg)
[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] I also added some NBW detail to the end sills and the needle beams. I think that’s enough detail. Well, maybe some cut levers Next step: Tank install.
That looks very nice, Jon.