Large Scale Central

Building the CR&N Deadline:July 2017

So as usual I have been agonizing and overthinking the switch that will lead into the yard. I am going to make basically a copy of Ken’s 5 way switch which is a homemade version of the one Greg showed me that I believe is a Tran Li switch.

Ken’s is 4 way but the one Greg showed me is 5. This is a pretty simply design but I have to obsess over it or it wouldn’t feel right. My only concern in making it was what to make it out of. You need a flat smooth surface that is weatherproof and can be screwed or spiked into and be able to use a router on. Since I am not there yet I have just sort of tossed ideas around but then I stumbled on a great product made in Spokane Valley that is a marine grade plywood that is surfaced in fiberglass. It is 3/4 thick stuff and has a layer of fiberglass over each side that has some sort of “paint” that makes the product waterproof. Best part is I got my piece free from a friend. But they do sell remnants. I will have to seal the cut edges and where I router the slot but that will be easy to do. It is smooth as silk also so the rails should slide on it with ease. I might start tinkering with that as a bit of a side project because I will need it done in order to lay the track in the yard.

Page 26 and the only track we have seen so far is Ken’s.

Devon Sinsley said:

David Maynard said:

forced compromises.

That what I want him to avoid.

A little of my building philosophy is in order. #1 deadlines are negotiable, compromises are not

Well, depends on who set the deadline

#2 I am not in a hurry to get it done, I want it done “right” not “fast” (both of those being relative terms)

But of course, that’s what we all want for you. But any slower and you would be moving backward

#3 This is not a high life priority, I have bigger fish to fry, this is leisure

True

#4 Money dictates more of what I can achieve than free time does, and I don’t have much of either.

Aren’t most of us in that “club”? I know I am.

If you haven’t figured it out yet, I have not bought into the “throw something down and get trains running” school of thought. If running trains were the goal then I could see the argument. But thats not what my chief concern is. I am building a railroad by a prescribed dream for what I want it to look like and be. The BUILDING the railroad is not the means to an end it is the end goal. It seems to have escaped many that the enjoyment is coming from the build, from tackling the problems, from planning, from dreaming, and eventually it will come from running.

Nope, I think we got it.

I could have a completed running railroad probably in three weekends. One weekend of shovel work to level and build mountains. One weekend to lay track free floating on the ground, and one weekend to landscape. And trains would be going around. But would I step back and be happy with what I built knowing I have trains running, not hardly. Or I can take a year and a half to build a railroad that is what I want it to be.

Yea, we want you to be happy with the end product. But, we have seen so many folks “die on the vine”, because they never stepped beyond the “design” phase. You have been hanging on the vine longer then most of those we have seen give up and pursue other interests.

Keep up the encouragement and the teasing, its motivating and gives me great ideas.

Oh yes Devon. We will keep riding you like a rented mule. You don’t have to worry bout that.

Oh yea, that looks so prototypical. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif)I think a 4 way stub switch would be easier to pass off.

Devon Sinsley said:

So as usual I have been agonizing and overthinking the switch that will lead into the yard. I am going to make basically a copy of Ken’s 5 way switch which is a homemade version of the one Greg showed me that I believe is a Tran Li switch.

Ken’s is 4 way but the one Greg showed me is 5. This is a pretty simply design but I have to obsess over it or it wouldn’t feel right. My only concern in making it was what to make it out of. You need a flat smooth surface that is weatherproof and can be screwed or spiked into and be able to use a router on.

If I was to make a version of that to be used outside, I would go the PVC board route, since it could be glued together with Pipe Joint Cement used on PVC pipe, to make it wide enough. I used small screws ro attach the rails and slotted the rail where it goes into the joiners. It uses a small threaded rod to keep it in gauge.

Don’t say that about the switch, I have resigned myself to the fact that this will be the simplest and most compact way to get done what I need to get done in the space available. I already am getting enough crap about getting this done I don’t need to take up more time designing and building a 5 way stub switch. I think it will be ugly as sin and stick out like a sore thumb. But it will get the job done easily. Maybe after it si up and running I can put it on the list of upgrades. But this is one compromise I am willing to except to get it done. Seeing as how I arelady have one switch project I am playing with i don’t need to get bogged down here.

Ken, I was just about to pull the trigger on using PVC as you suggested. It seemed to be the only real solution. But this sheet of fiberglass covered plywood is the ticket I think. This stuff is used to do all sorts of things like boat decks, and showers, etc. I plan on trimming the outside edges with 1X2 PVC which I will “glue” on with epoxy so it will fully seal the edges. I will use epoxy to seal the edge where I groove it as well. The thing I like about this is is silky smooth and flat. No glue joints nothing to hinder the sliding. Best part is it was free. A piece of trim and some epoxy will be my only cost.

Here is a link to the stuff. http://fiber-tech.net/images/stories/productdescriptions/Product_Data_-_2012_CLADTUFF.pdf

The problem with building a 5 way stub switch is there are no throws to switch it, unless you build one yourself. 3 way harp stands can be bought from Phils Narrow gauge.

http://www.philsnarrowgauge.com/Parts.html

This switch will have to be a very manual affair. The reality of it will be that it will have to be manually thrown and locked into place. I am toying with ideas on using the choke cable idea but haven’t figured out how to lock it into place.

How do you keep your rails in alignment with the diverging track? What locks it in place?

One issue I have not totally figured out is that this switch ideally should be operated from both sides of the yard. There is a staging area for visitors and they would need to operate the switch from one side to build their consist. I would also want to operate it from that same side as I am moving things in and out of the engine house. Then it would need to operate from the opposite side for working the yard. Now I am not opposed to just pulling it over and locking it into place by hand. Not ideal but again this has to be more about function than form. But on the staging side it isn’t going to be accessible. I will either have to make it accessible by removing a section of flower bed or putting stepping stones in it, or come up with some sort of remote operation like a choke cable with stops or something

your planned switch, and your mentioning space made me think…

with three switches you get the same result, using less space.

these are R1 switches. the yardstick is two foot long.

if you would use R4 switches, you would reach two and a half foot.

Korm Kormsen said:

your planned switch, and your mentioning space made me think…

with three switches you get the same result, using less space.

How so? I am all ears. If we can come up with a new plan I am all for it. Here is what I am looking to do.

Greg offered the idea of the five way and Ken supplemented it with his homemade build. Greg’s 5 way is 30 inches long (Ken how long is yours?) and covers all five diverging tracks. In very short order I can select any of five tracks.

This switch on the incoming side goes almost immediately into the wye section. It really needs to be the most compact solution.

well, as i edited above, coming from the fourway switch in the pic.

there the flexible section alone seems to be two foot.

David Maynard said:

Page 26 and the only track we have seen so far is Ken’s.

Nope, I think we got it.

Yea, we want you to be happy with the end product. But, we have seen so many folks “die on the vine”, because they never stepped beyond the “design” phase. You have been hanging on the vine longer then most of those we have seen give up and pursue other interests.

Keep up the encouragement and the teasing, its motivating and gives me great ideas.

Oh yes Devon. We will keep riding you like a rented mule. You don’t have to worry bout that.

Hey David,

Who’s this “We” you keep mentioning…a mouse in your pocket maybe? Also YOU commented a way back on this thread, that you ran some trains. But I believe without photos, “it didn’t happen” :slight_smile: I believe this is a statement I’ve seen on here before…:slight_smile: Just some passing comments on my observance of this thread. No teasing, just a comment (from ME, not WE :).

BTW, I actually"helped" Devon and sent him the 25 meg pdf file that Richard Smith put together many years ago, showing the evolution of his beautiful outdoor elevated railroad…Port Orford Coast RR. Hope he uses the information in that file. Richard is a true craftsman with wood and his RR shows it! :slight_smile:

Devon Sinsley said:

This switch will have to be a very manual affair. The reality of it will be that it will have to be manually thrown and locked into place. I am toying with ideas on using the choke cable idea but haven’t figured out how to lock it into place.

How do you keep your rails in alignment with the diverging track? What locks it in place?

That white square is what locks it into place. It slides between the rails, like you see sometimes on Turntables.

Ken Brunt said:

Devon Sinsley said:

This switch will have to be a very manual affair. The reality of it will be that it will have to be manually thrown and locked into place. I am toying with ideas on using the choke cable idea but haven’t figured out how to lock it into place.

How do you keep your rails in alignment with the diverging track? What locks it in place?

That white square is what locks it into place. It slides between the rails, like you see sometimes on Turntables.

The length is 36".

Gary Armitstead said:

David Maynard said:

Page 26 and the only track we have seen so far is Ken’s.

Nope, I think we got it.

Yea, we want you to be happy with the end product. But, we have seen so many folks “die on the vine”, because they never stepped beyond the “design” phase. You have been hanging on the vine longer then most of those we have seen give up and pursue other interests.

Keep up the encouragement and the teasing, its motivating and gives me great ideas.

Oh yes Devon. We will keep riding you like a rented mule. You don’t have to worry bout that.

Hey David,

Who’s this “We” you keep mentioning…a mouse in your pocket maybe? Also YOU commented a way back on this thread, that you ran some trains. But I believe without photos, “it didn’t happen” :slight_smile: I believe this is a statement I’ve seen on here before…:slight_smile: Just some passing comments on my observance of this thread. No teasing, just a comment (from ME, not WE :).

BTW, I actually"helped" Devon and sent him the 25 meg pdf file that Richard Smith put together many years ago, showing the evolution of his beautiful outdoor elevated railroad…Port Orford Coast RR. Hope he uses the information in that file. Richard is a true craftsman with wood and his RR shows it! :slight_smile:

I thought that those of us who were adding fluff to Devon’s thread, were motivated the same way I am. OK, Maybe I am wrong. But I do want to see him succeed, without any disappointing compromises. If I am alone in that, so be it.

Well, I did post some train running pictures in my rebuttal, Butt Modeling, thread. But I don’t take pictures every time a wheel contacts a rail in my backyard. So, I guess, in your world, it didn’t happen. But, so far, neither has Devon’s backyard empire. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)

OK OK OK.

First off Gary,

Two things. #1 Thanks for the file; I have yet to crack it open but I assure you I will. #2 I have appreciated all of your input and even coming to my defense. You have been a great help and it is appreciated.

Second David,

I know exactly what your motivation is and rest assured, at least from me it is welcome. I have never felt like your “attacks” were anything other than positive, friendly, and meant with good intention. I think in person you and I would get along well. We seem to have a similar demeanor. My friends like to use phrases like “with friends like you who needs enemies” and “if you stopped harassing me I would think you didn’t care.” I also can take what I dish out and have no problem giving as good as I am getting.

Third,

To the rest of my fans ((http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-innocent.gif), lol) I believe this thread is 26 pages long because you all are taking interest in my project. I think this is very similar to the real world, you know, when your friends and neighbors all come over and crack a beer and crack jokes while they “help” you by heckling you while you work. They offer you all sorts of advice that distracts you, then complain when your not working fast enough, and then tell you you did it wrong when its done. You know, friends.

Fourth,

It might matter if I cared. . . just kidding I do care.

Hey Devon,

I’m not at all coming in here “to defend you” from the likes of David ( You’re a big boy now).

In fact I am in total agreement with him on this one statement, “Yea, we want you to be happy with the end product. But, we have seen so many folks “die on the vine”, because they never stepped beyond the “design” phase. You have been hanging on the vine longer then most of those we have seen give up and pursue other interests”. Man, how true :)!

I designed the crap put of my “dream” Fn3 layout! Purchased thousands of dollars in SVRR code 250 aluminum rail, AMS NG ties (enough for at least 600 feet of NG mainline, over a dozen SVRR stainless #6 turnouts and wyes and I was in my late sixties then!). But EVERY TIME I stepped into my garage/shop, I kept looking at my beautiful 1/8th scale rolling stock and locomotives and I thought why in the heck do I want my layout on the ground, when I can be on the ground with 7-1/2 inch gauge AND ride the damn things :). I had an epiphany and have been riding ever since. I still have the track and turnouts, Accucraft and Berlyn engines. Just pursued another train interest :slight_smile: Maybe “someday” when I can’t ride the big stuff and I “start to drool”. my son and grandkids can build their “dream” layout in Fn3 :).

Gary,

Good I just didn’t want anyone to get their feathers ruffled on my account.

Devon Sinsley said:

Gary,

Good I just didn’t want anyone to get their feathers ruffled on my account.

Hey Devon,

Despite the fact that you have 26 pages and adding of bloviating going on here…your layout is “really” not that high on my priority ;ist. I have “bigger” fish to fry finishing seven 1/8th scale Baldwin electrics in less time than you have in your “deadline” :slight_smile:

As far as David is concerned, I was just "dishing out some of his own like comments. But, as usual with these forums, the written word just doesn’t go justice to those spoken face to face. Sorry David if you took it seriously. No feathers or lack thereof, were ruffled during this conversation.

AND remember this Devon…most of us are quite a few years older and have had our proverbial feathers ruffled by “experts”. :slight_smile: It’s all good…it all comes down to grown men crawling around the backyard playing with toy trains. How cool is that? :slight_smile: