Looks good so far …and welcome aboard!..
Here is an update to what I’ve been doing.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m489/jake3404/pic1.jpg)
This is a picture of the only “finished” area of the layout. I started planting some ground cover to get them going.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m489/jake3404/pic2.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m489/jake3404/pic3.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m489/jake3404/pic4.jpg)
These are pictures of my new bridge. It is a Garden Metal Models steel deck bridge. I still need to put in the supports but the 2x4 will work for now. I made the abutments by making a form out of hardboard and duct tape and then pour morter mix in. They came out pretty good, I got a couple air pockets but I’ll patch them up and you wont see a thing.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m489/jake3404/pic5.jpg)
As you can see with this photo, I’ve built a retaining wall and have started filling in with dirt. This will be a transistion from the deck bridge and the wood tressle on the right. I thought about putting a tunnel in this transistion area but I’m afraid the “mountain” will get too tall. I’m still kicking around that idea.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m489/jake3404/pic6.jpg)
I installed the ladder roadbed for the siding in the town. I decided to add a grist mill on this siding with a working water wheel in the stream to add some animation. Also you can see in the background that I installed the waterfall weir.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m489/jake3404/pic8.jpg)
This is a shot of the lower loop. I did this to show the progress comparing to previous pictures. I still have to finish the dirt moving and add a tressle (which will take a long time) along with finishing the rock work and installing the stream.
Hey Jake,
The progress is looking great. What manufacturer did you get that nice curved switch from, it fits right in.
Chuck
Jake, nice looking progress… 
Chuck Inlow said:
Hey Jake,The progress is looking great. What manufacturer did you get that nice curved switch from, it fits right in.
Chuck
The switch is from switchcrafters. I cant remember the radius exactly but I think it was the 10.5" and 7.5" diverging radius. It is buit real nice, but it is Stainless Steel instead of brass, which is the rest of my track. I’ll probably try to paint it sometime to match the color of the rest of the track.
We love progress pics!
You’ve made a ton of progress Jake - looking good 
What are the materials you are using for the ladder roadbed and support posts?
That will be one impressive trestle when it gets done. Good job!!
I agree with everyone else. Looks great.
David Hill said:I use a material called "trimboard". It is PVC. I use 1x2x12' for the runners and a 2x2 block for the spacer. I went with an all PVC ladder because I'm burying the ladder and didnt want to deal with rot or rusting later on. I get mine at Menards. They have it over by the garage door openers. However if you dont live in the Midwest you can look at Home Depot or Lowes for a similar product.
What are the materials you are using for the ladder roadbed and support posts?
For the posts I use 3/4" pvc pipe. I usually buy 10’ lengths and then cut them in half. Now I have been told that my post diameter is too narrow and I will get a lot of swaying. I agree whole-heartedly, if I were leaving the roadbed exposed and sticking out of the ground. But, as you can see in my pics, I am burying the roadbed. The posts are basically to serve as anchors into the ground. My method for setting them? I pounded them into the ground as far as I could (One of the reasons I went with a smaller dia post). I live on top of a mountain and so my terrain is very rocky, in certain areas I could only get the post into the ground about 18". However, since I’m filling up around the post, my average depth of the post including the fill is around 36".
I have wondered about something that perhaps all of you could answer. Where I live, I have to plant my vegtable garden in heg rows, otherwise the ground doesnt seem to get warm enough to have the seeds properly grow. I was wondering that since my railroad has a lot of fill around the roadbed and thus creating a kind of hedge row, would the ground stay warmer and I might have less of a problem with heave?
Jake Smith said:Trim board? ...Or do you mean Trimplank? I know of that and Tuf Board along with Azek but never heard of trimboard? Not being sarcastic just asking as I'm always into new materials and manufactures ;)David Hill said:I use a material called "trimboard"
What are the materials you are using for the ladder roadbed and support posts?
Without actually going and checking at the store, I was sure it was called trimboard. I will have to update you on that when I make my next trip. Of course this stuff is sold at “Menards,” it could be a different name elsewhere.
One thing David, it isnt a composite stuff like Tuf Board or Azek (at least that is what I thought those two materials were). The stuff I use is PVC.
The stuff I’ve been using is PVC trim from Homer Despot. It is in the molding and trim section and is pvc stright thru. No “wood filler” and no “skin” like on the tuf board or azek products. it is flimsier, I think, and therefore probably needs more support along it’s length. No Menards in my part of the country and Lowes is too far away.
Chas
Yeah Chas, my material acts the same way. I put supports in approx every 18". Its flimsey along the flat part but it has pretty good along the logitudal (is that a word???) span.
Boy, I put them a lot closer than that, sometimes only 9 inches apart.
Ric, Because of the way I “built” my ladder I spaced at every 16 and then supported in between those. Effectivly giving me connection every 8 inches. I ballasted 90 percent of mine this Saturday. I ran out of crusher fines. The height of the roadbed is actually alarming. I think I’m close to a foot above the yard. I purposefully left it that high for settling and for some elevation but it was not apparent how high until I started ballasting. We jsut had our first rain today (A good hard thunderstorm) so we’ll see what kind of damage I’ve got when I get home.
Chas
Well, i cant say that my method is the best. Going every 9" for a support would seem better, but I got lazy and figured 18" was fine. We shall see after the first winter if my lazy streek was a good idea.
I built the loop of track to “match” the sectional track so the spacers were there to hold it all together…It’s been close to a year since I started my project (still no train running) and I’ve moved the ladder several tiems to mow and then to remove the sod and then to rototil the area and then to put in new topsoil and weedblock and mulch and … well you get the picture. The supports went in a week ago and last Friday the ladder was raised, levelled and painted. Saturday morning brought the ballasting crew (me, myself, & I) and that was a learning experience too. Using a bucket to “pour” the ballast was a much more “precise” way of do things versus just shovellig it on. I figure that as the ballast settles in, it will somewhat support the ladder as well. Tomorow I go to get another 1 ton +/- load of crushed limestone. Not sure my method is best or will even work but time will tell…I think overkill with the PVC trim board is prudent.
Chas