Looking good. When I start making my Dunkirk or climax I might be bugging you for advise. 
Saw it in person yesterday. With the amount of weight in that thing, he could haul his house up the street. Can’t wait to see it when your done.
Much better! And the siderods look great.
I’m afraid to take the aristo motor block apart. Mine’s not slipping, so I’m leaving it alone till it starts to go bad
Did you work on the axle taper and the wheel to axle fit when you had it apart?
GREAT job Bruce you are truly a terrficate modler your work seams so hard but what i see in your forums you make difficult shape seem so simplei think i have to slow down while building a model
really coming along Bruce. Don’t worry about them that wants castles on their trains, as castles are too big to fit
David Marconi said:I was simply suggesting that as detail oriented as Bruce is.....If they made castle nuts to scale I'm sure he would have them. :)
really coming along Bruce. Don't worry about them that wants castles on their trains, as castles are too big to fit
Thanks guys. Lots of good ideas. I put the rivets on some styrene and then wrapped it across the smoke box; added builders plate, clean out and headlight bracket. Still trying to figure out how to secure this to the chassis. 
A few thoughts on attaching the boiler. If a long screw up through the steam chest is out of the question, a block of wood or styrene attached to the base of the smokebox that fits inside the steam chest and a screw from the front (hex-head) through the chest into that block of wood would be my first option. If that doesn’t work, just use the boiler stays. You’ll need to make the smokebox front removable, and thread the ends of the stays as they extend inside the smokebox. Secure them to the boiler with a nut, then secure the base of the stays to the pilot. You could also solder a flange to the outside of the boiler stays making the flange and the stay a solid piece per the prototype, then attach that to the smokebox with some 0-80 or similar-szied hex-head lag screws. So long as you’re not carrying the loco by the boiler, they’ll keep things firmly in place.
BTW, you’ve coaxed me off my tush to get going on my EBT #3. The cylinders and pilot are now attached to the frame, and I’m working on figuring out the boiler, etc. Good times.
Later,
K
I’ll be interested in your progress, Kevin.
Actually, I do have a plan. A long screw up through the front of the boiler is already there. I’ve cut away at a piece from the original Pacific back towards the firebox, and with a slot cut in the boiler, I think I can make this look good. My main concern is to make sure that I can easily disassemble if necessary for access to the gear box and engine. Then I’ve got to make it look right.
The front will be removable; that is as soon as I build one. 
Bruce,
When I have to, I use a 4-40 blind nut inside the boiler to receive the bolt from the steam chest. I long 4-40 and can get longer. Or use a larger size (go to Hdwe store). Block in the blind nut with flat plastic glued in.
Also if you remember the rear attachment on the 4-6-0, do something similar.
Barry - BBT
The Pacific had a section that ran across the bottom of the locomotive. I cut one end off, and stripped the side details off as well. It screws to the back of the gearbox.
I cut a slot in the boiler to fit down on top of this.
Up front, I’ve used the long screw to hold the front of the boiler in place.
The back will be glued to the support. I’ll fabricate some frames for the nuts as they won’t generally be reachable once I get some fire box sides in place.
Clean looking solution Bruce. Coming along great
OK, got a few little things done. Not much to show for the time invested it seems. The boiler supports are in place; they are shorter than the originals from the Annie, and I replaced the tiny Phillips head screws with hex head bolts and also added the deck brace flange around where it enters the boiler. It really serves its purpose as the deck no longer flexes. I also added a step - it started off as a casting, but I didn’t like the mounting bracket included. I filed that off and then soldered a piece of brass on to the bottom - this is stuck through the boiler. It ends up pretty strong. I liked the base of the smoke stack from the Pacific, so I used that with a larger piece of tubing. I added some .080" half round to finish it off.
Bruce,
I hope to be that good someday. I have a tough time looking at your pictures as your attention to detail is incredible and my brain goes 110 mph so I would ask stuff like how did you get your smoke stack escetchon to flow with the boiler like that!
Beer is my sedative
David,
I think you’re dang close already. Your house model is way ahead of what I ever did at your young age.
Ask away! I have lots of pictures never posted. Some of those have caused me to re-do my work.
For the smoke stack, I put some sandpaper around a piece of the 3" OD tubing…and ran the stack across that a few hundred times, thus it fits rather nicely.
Beer is GOOD.
Beer is good and people are crazy
David Marconi said:I know.... as we all see a "CrazyMan" every time you post! Couldn't resist.....no edit ;)
Beer is good and people are crazy
Bruce Chandler said:Oh I understand that! :)
I have lots of pictures never posted. Some of those have caused me to re-do my work.
David Russell said:Yup - There's nothing like a picture to point out yer screw ups! Happens to me all the time too.Bruce Chandler said:Oh I understand that! :)
I have lots of pictures never posted. Some of those have caused me to re-do my work.
I was playing around on youtube and found this video of a mikado. This is one of my things to do especially since it is less then an hours drive. It comes out of steamtown in scranton.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eK0l62DqMlE