Bruce Chandler said:Thanks, but Bruce, all I do is slap a little styrene together to make a few freight cars... You are basically, taking steam engine and building it from scratch, including re-qorking the wheels and rods, and stuff.... It's nice to see the work when you sccomplish another step....
Thanks, Andy. I've seen your fine work, so coming from you that really means something.
Thanks for the views…
Yeah, but you know what you’re doing! 
Bruce will you be my father and build your son some locos. WOW it,s looking great!!!
I know the brass will solder fine but what is the other metal? Did Barry say it would take solder? Do you have an extra piece from the cuttings you can test solder?
It’s really looking good too!
Jon.
Jon,
The metal is magnesium bronze and will take older (and I told him). The ability to take solde was the final selling point.
Barry - BBT
Yes, the ability to solder is key. I just finished the first set of side rods - pinned and soldered. They seem VERY strong.
Excellent.
Jon.
Any body got any idea what size screws are used by Aristo? I’d like to replace the wheel screws with some hex heads. And I need some more screws to hold the side rods.
Bruce Chandler said:I agree....I still look at the spy photos I took of his Auto Racks ...however Andy needs a mig welder and 1/2" box steel right now, not brass rods and solder! You got that RR done yet Andy! :)
Thanks, Andy. I've seen your fine work, so coming from you that really means something.
Bruce,
Amazing work!
Bruce,
The screws that Aristo uses will be metric. Call Micro fasteners, they can supply, but may need a sample to get the right size.
Barry - BBT
I went over to my local hardware store this morning. Looks like M2.5 and M3 work.
Got the side rods in place today. Had to re-quarter the drivers, and then ran it for about thirty minutes in both directions. It’s slowly getting broken in. I need to get the battery in place so I can run it around the layout - that will be a lot easier. Anyway, I’m very pleased with the side rods. Thanks for the great ideas; these are a LOT better than the clunky ones I started with.
These seem nice and strong, and I can’t even see the pins after they’re filed down.
Dude!
Siderods came out great–nice work. Did you go to Fisher’s for the hex head screws? I’ll have to make a trip myself–I have an Aristo Mikado drive that blew out on me the other day. I love Fishers
That’s going to be a very big loco! What will the finished length be?
Yep, got to love the old hardware store! However, they didn’t have any hex head screws. Just Phillips. I could not find M2.5 hex screws anywhere, but I do have some M3 Hex heads on order. I will have an extra one or two…IF they fit. The M2.5 screws fit in the new Pacific drivers to hold the side rods in place, the M3 fit in the old driver. Who knows what on the Mikado, but we can sure try them out.
M3 is also what is used to hold the driver on to the gear box. I’ll be replacing those, as well as using them to hold the side rods on the new driver. I’ve also got an M3 tap or order…you just never know.
Bruce,
If Mike was asking about the hex-heads in the hingepins on the siderods those are 4-40 SS from MicroFasteners (which I supplied).
Very nice work, as usual.
Barry - BBT
The rods look really good. Everything seems to line up just right.
Jon.
Bruce,
It’s good to see the rods worked out. I knew Berry would help you if could. The rods look fabulous.
You have done a super job on what you done so far.
Rodney
Bolt Depot to the rescue! My M3 hex head bolts arrived yesterday and today I replaced the Phillips head screws with the hex heads.
Mike - I’ve got some extra. Stop by and we’ll get you set up.
Shouldn’t they be castle nuts with cotter keys on the end of the spindle with threaded rod and grease fittings?
NOT JUST BOLTS!
