Now that’s a neat idea, Tim. I have one set, but would need another since I’ve got the extra driver. I’ll have to see if the ends are thick enough to go around the large pins that they used.
Interesting. The Annie side rods DO fit on the Aristo pins, but they are quite a bit tighter. The look is much closer to what I want.
Any one got a spare set? 
Just a question here. What’s wrong with making the rods out of styrene? Or even make them out of styrene, plastic, metal or anything that gets the job done. Then make a set of molds and cast them in colored resin.
Jon.
Jon,
No real reason. I don’t have any mold material or resin on hand, but that’s not much of an excuse.
I just prefer metal. 
One reason, if you are depending upon the siderods to transmit power to the other axles, the side rods need to be both rigid and strong.
Years ago I was running out of Bachman plastic siderods which would be with in dimension I could use. while thinking about a solution a demo train was running on my overhead track, pulling a pretty fair load, when it started acting oddly. Then I noticed the siderod was bent into an “S” wave. I ordered the first of my laser cut siderods the next day. The stainless steel doesn’t do that "S’ wave thing.
Barry - BBT
Well, I decided that the Annie pilot just didn’t look as close to the prototype as I wanted. I made this one out of styrene, then added some brass and wood steps.
I also added the pilot truck.
Looks great Bruce.
Bruce,
Looks wonderful.
I’d ask Barry if he’d sell you some of them laser cut siderods
Ralph
Thanks. Barry was easy to convince; I should have a set later this week, depending on the Post Office.
Ralph,
Not the laser cuts, they are stainless steel, can’t solder.
But magnesium-bronze castings, with the clevis hinges.
These can be silver soldered, drilled, threaded, etc.
Also sending rectangular brass tubing.
Barry - BBT
While awaiting side rods, I decided to tackle the boiler. One of the issues is that the smoke box is a bit smaller than the rest of the boiler.
I ordered an 18" long 3" OD ABS tube from Plastruct. It would not be long enough to do both the boiler and smoke box. But, when I looked around the shop, I saw that I had a piece leftover from when I built the boiler for the ten wheeler. The tubing is 5/64" thick. I calculated that if I cut out a strip about 7/16" wide, that would be just enough to make it so this could fit inside the long boiler tube. I cut it out, filed the edges straight, and then glued it back together using Weldon 16.
This now fits inside the long boiler, giving me the look I want.
I’ll be covering the smoke box with some .020" styrene, after I emboss it with the rivets. Note that the drawing does NOT agree with the photograph of the prototype. The drawing is of #14; the picture is of #15. I’ll be using the photo for modeling.
And the side rods came today! Along with some brass tube to extend their length. Thanks, Barry.
I know nothing about puffer bellies but I know your out of control and I totally enjoy seeing your scratch techniques!
Personally I think my personal favorite build I have ever seen is “The Bank” I loved that!
Bruce,
An alternative–
Wrap the tube for the boiler with 1/16 or 1/8" cork where the lagging would be (i.e, not the smokebox), then wrap that with .005" styrene as a jacket. I’ve generally used blackened brass, but styrene will give the same results. Before wrapping the boiler with the styrene sheet, I put the sheet on the concrete driveway and walk on it. This gives it a few little dents, scratches, and other blemishes that give the jacket that “proper” look.
If your outside tube is the correct diameter, and your smokebox tube is smaller, then just wrap the boiler tube with the styrene and forget about the cork.
Later,
K
Kevin,
I’ve long admired how you do your boilers. I thought about wrapping the boiler this time with the brass, but I really needed to keep it at 3" OD.
Where do you get the cork?
This is what I have. The Pacific side rod is at the bottom of the picture. Just above that is the new one from Barry. At the very top is the stuff from an Annie.
So, the first trick is to get it the right length. First I cut the side rod about 5/16" in from the raised part of the rod. Length is obviously not that critical.
Next, this stub is filed down on all four sides until it is small enough to slip into the rectangular tube.
This shows the progression:
Finally, it’s the correct size.
Next, I’ll solder these together. I’ll also put a brass pin through each end, just to make sure it stays put.
neat stuff… 
psst, guys, Bruce is good, but don’t tell him, it might go to his head…
couldn’t resist…
Thanks, Andy. I’ve seen your fine work, so coming from you that really means something.
There’s just a bit of filing. One set almost done.
I think I’ll drill for the pins while they’re on the locomotive; then I’ll pull it off and pin and solder at the same time. That should keep everything in line.