Wow.
Jon.
They clean up rather nicely:
And, once painted, you really can’t see much…
I started working on the smoke box front.
I had obtained some smoke box dogs from Ozark (I needed two packages), but I didn’t like the look, so I cut off the tails and filed each end smooth.
The number place is from an EBT tie tack. I ground off the number and added a 7 from Trackside Details.
Bruce Chandler said:Yea, that matches the picture a lot more. Looks good!
I had obtained some smoke box dogs from Ozark (I needed two packages), but I didn't like the look, so I cut off the tails and filed each end smooth. The number place is from an EBT tie tack. I ground off the number and added a 7 from Trackside Details.
Coming along nice Bruce. Did you also pin the lap joints?
Yes, everything is pinned. Hard to see, but I just didn’t trust the joint.
Getting there…
Have I mentioned how much I’m enjoying this thread?
mike omalley said:Me too :D Ralph
Have I mentioned how much I'm enjoying this thread?
That looks great Bruce. #7 eh? Looks twice as good as that 
Maybe you should have numbered it Lucky 13 - there never was one on the EBT. I’m assuming you will be lettering it for the J&B.
It’s my 7th locomotive. 
And, like the others, it will be J&B!
Bruce Chandler said:Get a job!!! :)
It's my 7th locomotive. ;)
David Marconi said:
Really do enjoy following your builds and I glean just a bit of knew info with each one.Thanks again
Dave
BROWN NOSER
David Russell said:
Bruce Chandler said:
It’s my 7th locomotive.Get a job!!!
No job here! Besides, I didn’t build all of the others… I started assembling the valve gear today. It’s time like these that I appreciate the closer tolerances of the Annie valve gear. The Aristo drivers have rod attachment points that are way too long.
I probably should have cut down all of them, but I didn’t. I’m going to have to cut this one done that holds the eccentric rod, as it is way too long. I just ordered a metric 2.5 tap, so I’ll have to wait until that comes before I complete the assembly. Meanwhile, it’s painted, but chipping. I tried Blacken-it on it, but it really didn’t take; I had to sand some places to make it fit.
So, while I wait for my metric tap, I decided to work on the back head “detail”. The one that comes with the Annie is just the right diameter, but a tad short.
I got some butterfly doors from Ozark and put them in place after I stripped off a bit of detail here and there. A styrene sheet filled the gap and I painted on my rivets, as I wanted a flattened look, not the distinct ones that my riveter will produce. The brass replaces some original plastic pieces.
I’m not sure if I’m going to be doing any more piping inside the cab or not. It will be hard to see if I do.
Bruce,
when modifying my B’mann Annies to a flanged centre driver, I needed to fit elongated crankpins taken from the original blind drivers. This necessitated threading the pins all the way through the length of the pin. Not having a suitable tap, I purchased several suitable screws (used on Tamiya radio control cars) and used the screws to cut the thread through the pin. Worked very well. Once threaded, the pins were cutoff with a Dremel, dressed up and fitted to the flanged B’mann drivers. If a tap is unavailable then maybe try this method.
What no full cab interior? Quitter!
Quitter? No, just lazy. 
I’m still working… Mainly, I don’t have any good shots of the interior. In addition, there really isn’t much visible…
…grinning…
Parts, parts, parts. What to do? I need a pair of lifting injectors.
I thought about buying some, but started looking around the workshop. I glued some brass tubes together.
Once dry, I’ll cover them with JB Weld and file to shape. At least that’s the plan. 
I also need a couple of air pumps.
Again, I could buy some, but that would be about $40 and I’m really not sure of the size. So, I got some tube and ends from Plastruct.
Now, we’ll see how well I can make these look like what they’re supposed to. The experiment continues.
Looks like you can see the marks where they were beating on them during the Fall Celebration.
If you want to do the fins on the bottom parts a stack of thin styrene disks would work !
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/altterrain/LSC/simpsons-doneyet.jpg)
I used those Plastruct tube ends for my forney cylinders. They were quite handy. -Brian 
I would have finished by now, but you made me redo some parts. I got some Neolube as recommended on another site, and I really like the results.
It’s more of a dark gray, but it’s the look I wanted. Unfortunately, my eccentric rods did not survive when power was applied, so it’s back to the drawing board. I think I’ll just make some new ones from brass.