Keep doing brass work like that Bruce and pretty soon you’ll be building brass models from scratch. Nice work.
I don’t see a brass loco in my future, but thanks for the vote of confidence! I did get some more work done today. I’ve been able to use a few parts from some Annie valve gear and used some brass strips, bars, and tubes to make the rest.
Next up is the combination lever. I’d like to get it tapered but I may settle for a straight bar. We’ll see.
I’m glad you are doing all the brain work on this, that leaves me with nothing to do but machining which is the way I like it !
It’s starting to get there. Built the combination lever and temporarily installed it.
How did you fasten the valve slide to the Bachmann valve gear hanger ? Solder ?
I’m not sure we’re talking the right part, but here’s an answer to a question somewhere. It may be the answer to the question you asked. 
The slide is composed of several pieces of brass tube. 3/32" tube slides inside the 1/8" tube. I cut off part of the Bachmann hangar, leaving about an inch of the original casting. This was filed down to the point where the 1/8" tube could slide over it.
I next covered this in JB Weld and slid the 1/8" brass square tube over it. I let this dry for a day; seems very strong. I don’t think solder will adhere to the casting.
Yep, that’s is what I was asking and I didn’t think the crappy metal castings would solder but in the photo I couldn’t tell !
Looking good Bruce. In order that I may gleen a little more modeling savvy would it be possible to get an inside pic of your works?
My works? Sorry, I’m not sure what you’re asking.
We get to see the outside view of your valve gear, but would it be possible to see the inside view. The side not normally seen that faces the drivers. In your pics it looks like you’re using nuts and bolts as I can see some bolt heads,how about a pic of the side with the nut?
Oh, yeah. That’s ugly on the inside. It is held together with nuts and bolts. Those 4 hold another 1/8" strip to keep it in the track.
I’ll see if I’m brave enough to post pictures.
This is about the best I can do without taking it apart.
Please note that the plates that attach the slides are not yet attached, which is why they appear not attached. 
Bruce I’m really thankful you retired–I get to see that kind of work.
How are you drilling those holes, and keeping them straight?
I’m also thankful that I’ve retired. 
(Though, I kind of miss the money.)
When I started building this, I was just using my hand held Minilux drill, which I see is no longer available.
However, since John recommended the Proxxon drill press, I’ve been using that. It makes drilling a LOT easier and much straighter. I already had the Proxxon rotary tool, but I wasn’t using it very much; that has now changed. I also bought the vise, 3 jaw chuck, and a foot switch. The vise makes it a lot easier to drill as it firmly anchors your work, yet it’s easily moved. I would really hate to drill using the collet system, and the 3 jaw chuck makes it a breeze to change bits. Although the foot switch is just a simple on/off switch it really makes a difference since both hands are free and I just press my foot to start the drill. I’m very pleased with this arrangement.
The existing Annie radius rod is a bit too short, so I needed to extend it. First, I created the end bracket using a piece of 1/8" square tubing, with slots cut into it. This is soldered to a strip of 1/8" x 1/32" brass and filed to shape.
(http://jbrr.com/Pics/Locomotives/EBT/Locomotive/IMG_7135.JPG)
I cut off a piece of the original and filed a notch into it to accept the brass strip. The strip was glued in place using JB Weld. The original is at top, the bottom shows my modifications.
Finally, a hole is drilled and 0-80 hex head bolt is put in place. It also holds a strip of metal across the back side.
Meanwhile, the eccentric rod is also too short. My initial plan calls for the same treatment. I cut it in half, then file a notch in both sides to accept a brass strip. Then I’ll glue in place with JB Weld and probably pin it as well. I’m thinking that the gap will be filled with JB Weld which will be filed to shape. We’ll see.
Unfortunately when I was filing the notch, the end piece broke off. I think there’s enough left to still carry out my plan. I’ll have to be more careful when I do the other piece.
Bruce a big thank you for the ugly pics. I know it was a pain, but they do help in the fine detail work. I can see from your photo you have left a little wiggle room on your slides, where not knowing I would have tried for a micrometer fit.
Really do enjoy following your builds and I glean just a bit of knew info with each one.
Thanks again
Dave
No pain. Just embarrassing; I had hoped to keep all my mistakes private. The wiggle room evolved over time and slowly decreased until it worked right. Starting afresh, I’d make it a tighter fit.
Bruce,
When making the second piece, instead of trying to ‘notch’ the original part and slide the brass in between, do a cabinet makers ‘half lap’ joint. Remove half the required material from one part and the corresponding material from the other part. This will leave more thickness on the original part making is stronger, and safer to drill and pin for security.
Bob C.
Thanks, Bob. That is what I’m trying to do; I guess I wasn’t very clear. The plan is to remove about 1/32" so that the brass strip will end up flush. I just wish I could solder to this stuff.
It’s funny, I used to avoid soldering way back when, but now I look to use brass for just about everything. It’s strong and easy to work with, and when you can solder something to it, it doesn’t come loose easily.
OK. I think that worked. I globbed some JB Weld over the joints, and I’ll file it smooth in a day or two. But, I’m pleased with how they turned out.
