That’s a LOT! of spikes. But it’s going to set that bridge of real nicely. PS: And Fred will be pleased. 
Yep… 84 inches, a tie every inch, 4 spikes per tie for the running rail = 336 spikes plus 4 spikes every 4th tie for the guard rails = 84 plus a few extras on the ends makes around 425 spikes or so…
Only 4 spikes per tie? Aren’t you using the Spiker? :o
I’m thinking Bob should be spiking at least 6 per tie, it is a bridge and we don’t want any rail laying over.
Bob McCown said:I think I've just been convinced to use tie strip on my new bridge.
Yep... 84 inches, a tie every inch, 4 spikes per tie for the running rail = 336 spikes plus 4 spikes every 4th tie for the guard rails = 84 plus a few extras on the ends makes around 425 spikes or so...
But Jon it doesn’t look as good as ties with the right tie spacing. I think it is worth the effort to lay the ties and
spike the rail.
Rodney
Randy McDonald said:Since you seem to be the inspector on this project, I'd say you're going easy on Bob ;) :)
I'm thinking Bob should be spiking at least 6 per tie, it is a bridge and we don't want any rail laying over. ;)
Rodney Edington said:
But Jon it doesn't look as good as ties with the right tie spacing. I think it is worth the effort to lay the ties and spike the rail.Rodney
OK, you’ve convinced me to at least experiment. Because I am lining up with code 332 sectional track I can’t make proper size ties for F scale. I brought home some 9mm PVC scrap today that is almost exactly the same height as the Aristo ties I use. If it will take spikes without drilling I might be able to do it.
Spiking really is a Zen thing. Just get in the groove and it goes very quickly.
Jon Radder said:Rodney Edington said:
But Jon it doesn't look as good as ties with the right tie spacing. I think it is worth the effort to lay the ties and spike the rail.Rodney
OK, you’ve convinced me to at least experiment. Because I am lining up with code 332 sectional track I can’t make proper size ties for F scale. I brought home some 9mm PVC scrap today that is almost exactly the same height as the Aristo ties I use. If it will take spikes without drilling I might be able to do it.
You will probably have to predrill the holes. It is no big deal to drill the holes anyway. I always predrill
holes for spikes and still bend a lot of them, especially in the redoak that I use to make the switches.
Rodney
Four spikes per rail per tie…
anyone had any luck putting guard rails on tie strips?
I’m going to try 5 minute epoxy.
Doug Arnold said:I'm a mechanical-attachment kind of guy where possible. I'd give pop rivets a try. Use the tiny aluminum ones they have for gutters and downspouts. They even come in brown.
I'm going to try 5 minute epoxy.
The aerospace engineer in me says : Weld-on 16 - Pre-drill little holes in ties, use styrene strips, and glue from bottom. Sort of like an invisible glue “rivet” that won’t pull up out of tie. I haven’t done any glue experiments with ties yet. That’s John M’s domain. Just a pain in the butt, especially since JTM has laid the track already if he thinking about the dual track bridge.
I used spikes to mount the guard rails on Garden Metal’s bridge ties…I started by predrilling with a drill size I tested, to see if it would accomodate the spike, but allow it to be a tight enough fit.
I predrilled about every 6th tie, right next to the simulated tieplate/spike, then pressed a spike into each hole, just deep enough that the code 215 rail layed nice and close, then predrilled another hole, next to the other side of the code 215 rail, and pressed in a spike, pressing both spikes down fully, holding the rail in place. I did this on both the guard rails, about 4 or five years ago, and the rails have stayed in place with no problems. I used the plain metal spikes from RailCraft/Micro Engineering.
The proper sized bridge ties look so much better than just using regular tiestrip.
Regular sized ties are used on “Ballasted deck bridges”, but not on bridges or trestles that are open frame. And the guard rails make the bridges/trestles look just that much more finished.
Spiking rail is not that much of a chore. You do need to predrill if you use the plastic bridge decking, but if you are using wood ties; Western Red Cedar, or Redwood don’t need predrilling, unless you insist on using more than two spikes per tie. I never did spike each tie, on my wood trestles. Only about every 6 , or was it 4 ties. One spike on each side of the rail.
It’s not like, if you insist on hand laying all your track on wood ties…
The guys handlaying HO track, seldom spike each tie, and no-one seems to notice.
BTW…guardrails should extend at least a car length past the end of the bridge, or a bit farther if the track is on a curve, entering the bridge.
Gonna look great . . . I awake more pictures 
Bob McCown said:Huumm.....I just responded to Jon's bridge thread with the same thing....great minds ....wait ?? Who really is my father???
I'm a mechanical-attachment kind of guy where possible. I'd give pop rivets a try. Use the tiny aluminum ones they have for gutters and downspouts. They even come in brown.
David Russell said:Do you really think that anyone in their right mind would own up to that?....................;)
Who really is my father???