Bill,
I think it’s pretty cool that you’re using a drill and filing away on that 3d print, while sitting on the couch and binging a show with Herself.
I call that Precedent. And you should write up an article on whatever your method is for GR, once it starts up again.
I mean, your casual taking over the living room, with freedom to trash the carpet, seems to me much more relevant than yet another article on static grass, pruning azaleas, or rolling stock graffiti painting.
Cliff
Any reason you can’t use the 2 prints to create the lettering independently that will just drop into your engraving?
IE If the only difference between the emboss and engrave models is the lettering, could you cut the engrave from the emboss? That should leave you with just the lettering. You can print it in whatever colour then.
Just a thought.
Micmic
That’s a great idea Michael. I’ll be saving that idea for the next time. I think if my font was twice the size it might work. Some parts of the fonts are single nozzle thick. I really like the idea of inserting fonts. That would save a lot of plastic.
I starting to believe the challenge for the raised font will be finding a Unicase font like copperplate but without serifs and adjusting the retraction time on the printer due to stringing.
…and I’m using my Slic3r to add the words as I have yet to grasp fusion 360.
Today I painted then fit the cam,
…then filed the crankshaft down to fit the housing,
…glued it in place (surprisingly leaving the crankshaft mobile),
…and finally clamped all of together in place,
…using of course, the 10 FOOT RULE.
Inspiring piece of detail Bill. Glad to see I have at least a smidgen of your talent. I use those same clamps. 
To make the eccentric more visible, I painted it black to resemble it being grease covered.
Then tested its fit on to the shaft, then disassembled it to enable placement of the shaft here.
Then I disassembled it as the follower has to
Then I prepped for the flywheel attachment. It’s been interesting this polymaker flat filament replicates a cast iron better than my regular PLA and carves easily but I believe is inherently weaker.
I found more explanatory gifs HERE 
Thanks for the compliment Hollywood but I’ve certainly learned more from you.
This photo shows the eccentric in place.
Being a static engine it was easier to place the valve shaft first, and hope I didn’t break anything by placing the eccentric on the crank shaft.
Strangely the PLA has been acting a bit like PETG and stringing quite a bit.
Today I’m reprinting the engine with a different set of settings. (Dave, I’ve just wasted $0.62 USD)
Thank you Bill, but I’ll humbly disagree.
Does the putty shrink or can it be levelled on application or do I need to build it up like drywall jointing compound?
Bondo can be layered up. It can shrink if you add too much. I’ve had some shrinking and cracks for when I apply too thick. I tend to put light layers on and smooth with scrap plastic. Then sand smooth when dry (30 minutes?)
Look for it at your local auto repair shop as it’s main purpose is fixing car dents etc.
I’m starting to believe I shouldn’t have invested in so much coloured filament, but bought one colour, some bondo and a good a good airbrush setup. (And maybe a CNC)
Looking good. Barely caught up but that little piston engine looks good.
I have used that spot putty on my car and it is good stuff and easy to use. I used it very thin on pin holes and it did not shrink. It does need to be primed before painting depending on what type of paint you will be using to top coat it.
The engine is looking great.
Thanks.
I couldn’t find Bondo and the amount of glazing putty equivalent was going to disqualify me from the MIK. But searching, Tamiya came up. And I sad ooh, I might have some of that! Surprisingly I had a decade old tube which was still fresh.
It certainly fills cracks. I couldn’t buff it out of the FDM layers.
You’re sure doing it Bill! Wonderful work!
Looking good Bill keep up the good work. As you are finding out those build lines are what caused me to go with resin printing. But in the end I still ended up with a filament printer. They both have their place. I am real curious to start trying to see what it takes to mate filament prints to resin prints. So i can build larger robust stuff in filament and then add resin detail parts. Since I haven’t tried it yet I don’t know it simple super glue will work or if I will need something like an epoxy.
My build has hit a major snag. My hotend blocked during the print when the wood PLA snapped. The break was undetected by the sensor. I’ve been unable to clear the blockage with acupuncture needles from below and accessing the blockage from above to push the PLA has been unsuccessful as well.
Now I’m disassembling the hotend.
Sigh…
As the printer is off line, I thought I’d get out some paint and try some hand-detailing.
Here are the painting trials…
PROOF of CONCEPT
PROOF of ILLEGIBILITY
PROOF of ADHESION (between brands of filament)
Last one.
Id say thats a major road block. Good luck getting it cleared. Other than that its coming along.
