At the Prototype Modelers Show this last weekend, a dealer mentioned to me using “Canopy Glue” for attaching detail parts.
Any body have experience with this?
A Brand name?
How to use it?
Drying time?
Source?
Most that build model airplanes use Testors canopy glue which is for all intents and purposes white wood glue, it dries clear and doesn’t attack the clear plastic. There is also watch crystal cement, not sure what its chemical make up is but it exhibits the same characteristics as white glue. There is also PSA, pressure sensitive adhesive that MicroMark sells for canopies and other things. The watch crystal stuff can also be had from them. I have used all three and would not recommend any of them for installing details on GR equipment. Might be OK for something on a display model that’s going to spend it’s life on a shelf. I suppose there are other types of canopy glue but they are not known to me. For details on operating equipment I would recommend Rooster’s favorite 3M emblem adhesive. Just my cents worth.
Gary, Thanks for the reply. The use is for detail parts on an HO engine. The 3M emblem adhesive might be just the thing.
In HO canopy cement might be alright, but like I said if you have some good old Elmers white glue it’s the same stuff. It has the advantage that it won’t mark the paint and any excess can be clean up with water before it dries. Down side is that it doesn’t have much bonding strength as you are depending on basically surface tension to hold the parts, there is no welding effect like you get with a solvent glue. It also has a longer working time as opposed to super glue and it won’t leave the white residue that super glue can.
The guy at the show says the Super Glue will get brittle and eventually fail. Have had that result, before. Trying to prevent that final result.
After reading the rest of the forums Ric, I think I would stay with TightBondIII. Excess can be cleaned up with water and it’s even good outdoors. TightBondI will work for indoor, but I guess I see TBIII as having better holding power. That could be my imagination though.
Use it as a contact type application and you should be fine. Put glue on one piece, put pieces together, separate pieces. I’d clean up any excess at this point.Reposition pieces and clamp for 30 minutes.
CA was designed to dissolve in water…after all its orginal application was for ‘liquid stitches’ that would be dissolved by the body…well that was the plan anyways… hard to beat good ol fashioned Lawn N Garden GOOP for all your adhesive needs…Although I’m seeing a future for Power Grab…
I actually prefer Liquid Nails over Power Grab …Honestly though wouldn’t that wood model have been hand nailed on the 1:1 scale?
Bart Salmons said:
…Although I’m seeing a future for Power Grab…
Bart, stick with the Goop. I tried the Power Grab on the Engine House and it didn’t do well.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/kenbrunt/powergrab001.jpg)
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/kenbrunt/powergrab004.jpg)
Stuff flaked right off.
Uhh ohh !
Whoops
KAAAAAAA RAP…I just used it on the water tower roof…Dagnabit…
That don’t look good Ken. I use a lot of caulk and adhesive caulk for structure coverings.
Ken
How many years was it outside??
Shaving in your shop is ok without a mirror but you need to put the razor back when finished
David Russell said:
Ken
How many years was it outside??
Shaving in your shop is ok without a mirror but you need to put the razor back when finished
Years??? Try “months”…about 2 of them…
David Russell said:
Ken
How many years was it outside??
Shaving in your shop is ok without a mirror but you need to put the razor back when finished
Razor…hammer…what’s the difference to a Rooster?
Well last night after 6 beers it looked like a razor to me!
That’s a sign…you should have had seven…
You guys are the best!
Next time just use 35yr caulk Ken …Ric I have used the Testors canopy glue in the past (the cab control car comes to mind currently). Problem is nobody has seen a picture of what the hell you want to glue together! Stop thinking so hard and just do what you did before you could ask the internet or cellphone.