I tested my engine out on the layout today and it ran great. I think I found my new faverite engine.
Kewl!
That little rascal sure scoots along. How many cars of logs can she haul?
Mornin’, Bill - good to see you here!!!
Best and WELCOME!!!
tac, ig & The Bandon Lighthouse Boys
Welcome Bill.
Now Talent: that is a great name for a modeler to live in.
Alan: Yes, but I wish I had some! It’s a small town in Southern Oregon between Medford and Ashland.
Bill I can pull at least three of those hartland mini series log cars. Ill have to test it more as the weather warms.
Shawn said:Till it blows up!!!
I tested my engine out on the layout today and it ran great. I think I found my new faverite engine.
Nice work buddy
That is a neat little logger with a very interesting sounding engine. I know you had fun building that little feller.
Doc Tom
David Russell said:Shawn said:Till it blows up!!!
I tested my engine out on the layout today and it ran great. I think I found my new faverite engine.Nice work buddy
I think it’s more likely to burn than explode - Did ya see the color of that tin can
Shawn - LOVED the white-knuckle ride!
tac, ig & The Camp 18 Boys
Shawn, every time I watch this I see something new. Looks like you used exterior post holders to attach the uprights for the roof frame. Love the staining/weathering you did on the whole rig, especially noticeable on the back of the fuel crib in the “hold on tight” footage. Your rail layout is just loaded with gentle curves – so much more interesting than long, straight runs in a garden layout. Looks like you have banked a lot of those turns just a bit as well. Boy, there’s a lot more to this stuff than first meets the eye.
Regarding the tin can insulator for the boiler, do have something a bit more elegant in mind for a long-term solution? Judging by the heat bluing on the can, a half jacket would probably accomplish the same thing, and might be made of brass. Just mumbling here …
Great little engine, you autta bring it to the steamup.
So we all can drool over it.
Bill Powell said:Bill thanks. The tin can is going to get wrapped with brass and then wood sides like the project engine. The soup can proved to be stiffer allowing me to use the brass straps to keep the wood snug. If I used the brass that came with the engine I would not be able to creat that gap and then strap the wood. The brass would bend too much.
Shawn, every time I watch this I see something new. Looks like you used exterior post holders to attach the uprights for the roof frame. Love the staining/weathering you did on the whole rig, especially noticeable on the back of the fuel crib in the "hold on tight" footage. Your rail layout is just loaded with gentle curves -- so much more interesting than long, straight runs in a garden layout. Looks like you have banked a lot of those turns just a bit as well. Boy, there's a lot more to this stuff than first meets the eye. Regarding the tin can insulator for the boiler, do have something a bit more elegant in mind for a long-term solution? Judging by the heat bluing on the can, a half jacket would probably accomplish the same thing, and might be made of brass. Just mumbling here ...
Shawn, I just put together my Heritage steam engine and the boiler will slide up and down inside the bras jacket without much effort even with the brass straps on the wood strips as tight as I can get them. I might use a tiny screw to check the boiler from slipping down too much. The Titebond III on my Douglas fir engine frame is currently curing; I don’t think I have to have epoxy. I’m going to try to make my own axle trucks of steel or brass. I test ran my engine and it did fine just sitting on the workbench, but moving on an outdoor track it may lose too much heat to keep the steam pressure up and I may have to resort to a tin/can jacket as well. Time, and my untalented sausage fingers, will tell.
Bill - a lot of folks use red cedar cladding around the boiler as a form of lagging - in fact over here where we have the original De Winton loco ‘Challoner’ still in steam it has beautiful boiler lagging bands that really enhance the appearance! [see Youtube - Challoner] It’s an additional payment accessory on the Regner De Winton-style models, BTW, and apart from looking good it has a real function.
Best
tac, ig & The Leighton Buzzard Light Railway Boys
Bill Sometime a small screw or two going through the jacket at the bottom of the boiler will keep it better. Thats why I secured mine with screws on the bottom and some brass strip bent at the top of the boiler. It keeps everything as one unit.
For more heat it is important to have that gap between the boiler and the jacket. it will improve it by 25%
Shawn, what did you use to couple your engine to your log car? I can’t quite tell from the video …
Bill I used Link and Pin coupler from ozarks. Here are a few shots of the engine. I added a few things I replaced the rubber hose with copper tubing, the roof and frame is now removable from the main body. I also took the steam exhaust and ran it into the pipe on top. that way I will get steam flumes out of the stack now. I had the wood wraped around the boiler wrap but when the unit got hot the straps holding the wood would expand and become loose causing the wood to slide down. I actually like the soup can look better.
(http://i40.tinypic.com/34ypmw0.jpg)
(http://i40.tinypic.com/2vxesz7.jpg)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/2f0gjkz.jpg)
I agree - the soup can looks more “natural”