Bachmann should just contract with Barry for ALL their drives! What a combination that would make!
Brightened up a bit.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/jebouck/Connie%20BBT%20Gearbox%20002.jpg)
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/jebouck/Connie%20BBT%20Gearbox%20008.jpg)
your computer needs adjusting…they were just fine here. Your’s are overexposed for the lack of a better term…
Tony, Tim,
Thank you both. The answer is in the last picture which is the original axle, with the splines removed and the new bearings and gear in place. The next step is to replace this assembly into the chassis.
John, looks like I need to examine my Photoshop a bit more, to lighten up some of these shots. What you did looks good. One stumbling block is that I spend more time in the shop than I do on the computer. I do process the pics on Photoshop, primarily to crop and resize the photos, lightening them shouldn’t add too much.
The plain axle is just a hunk of .25" stainless rod. The gearbox that will be shipped will actually have a 1/4" wooden dowel instead of the steel rod.
Andre’, on some of the models it would be true. But I think Bachmann has done some outstanding work. The first shay and it’s evolution seemed to set the mark for them. The gen five Big Hauler/Annie and Porter drives are very good units and will last a long time if not overstressed. The gear drive locos are well done. I haven’t seen the Mallet drives yet, and I have already said enough about the K-27.
With all due respect, If Bachmann hadn’t produced a weak drive in the BH, I wouldn’t be here today. You should know that over the years they have helped me a lot, and I trust that I have helped them. The bottom line is that we have helped the hobby.
Barry - BBT
Andrè Schofield said:Nothing wrong with my monitor. Those pics were too dark.
your computer needs adjusting...they were just fine here. Your's are overexposed for the lack of a better term..
sunglasses off?
It’s amazing how much work you put into these!
John Bouck,
Did you use Photoshop to lighten the pics? If so where do I find the tool on my Photoshop Elements?
Ray,
I have always wanted to do more work in metal, primarily aluminum and brass. I built slot cars in the 60’s the metal work was by hand and Dremel tools. When I started the drive I knew I needed better tools, so I have had a full-sized Mill for about fifteen years and a 9 X 20 lathe about the same period. I’ve worn out two drill presses, several german cutoff saws, two Black & Decker electric screwdrivers. What has impressed me is how long drill bits can last when you have a drill press.
I was fortunate to have a customer in Santa Clara, CA who was also a master machinist. His name was Jim Wall and Jim answered all my silly questions, but Jim wanted a 2-8-0. I told him I could build it but I didn’t have the right wheels. He made 6 sets of brass and stainless wheels. He steered me to a Laser Cutter in Santa Clara, so I could have the siderods made.
Against his Doctor’s wishes Jim flew to Las Vegas so we could meet and he could see my shop, etc. Jim returned home, became quite ill and never recovered. One of the many really nice people we have in this hobby. Sorry, for wandering off there.
Barry - BBT
Hi Barry.
Thanks for the explanation although, because I have never seen the actual axle and wheelsets out of the loco and dismantled, I still don’t understand what it is that has been done to it. Other than the drive gear has been replaced.
Perhaps when the step by step instructions are available this tired old brain will comprehend.
BTW.
The first picture was a bit dark, but all of the others were perfect.
<<Did you use Photoshop to lighten the pics? If so where do I find the tool on my Photoshop Elements?>>
Sorry,
No, I use Microsoft Picture-It.
But you should have a “contrast” button. That’s how you lighten and darken a pic.
I don’t know if Elements has the same features, but in “regular” Photoshop (version 6) I found I can get the best results by using “Adjust Curves” to brighten images.
I went to Photoshop and found an"Enhance" key, it opened up to Brightness and contrast. Played with it a bit and pulled the pics up and got similar results that John did. So I applied it to all the photos. Realize photos will be used in the instruction set.
A bit of an aside, there are too many of us who choose not to read instructions, a thought “would they look at pictures?” So I will do the instruction set for the chassis/gearbox install and TOC will write/photo the firebox and cab modifications.
Tony, You are right, all that has been done is to explain how to file the serrations from the axles, carefully and the use of the ball bearings as a go-no-go gauge to tell when the filing is enough.
The chassis install is really simple, if instructions are heeded. I believe that will also be true in TOC’s part of this bargain.
Thanks to you all for your help.
Barry - BBT
Thanks Barry.
I absolutely look forward to this enhancement of what is otherwise an excellent loco.
I will invest in a loco and your kit as soon as you are ready to go.
As a result of experimental work I have been doing on Accucraft metal locos, I am pretty sure I have found a way to get fantastic range from it.
I guess the next thing to do will be to get the information from TOC on beefing up the tender trucks before they break.
Attention Geoff Ringle.
I have sent you an E mail via LSC but it may not get through.
If it does not please contact me direct via the RCS website http://www.rcs-rc.com/
In the meantime here is a link to the way I did the K-28 http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=10445
Edit note:
It has just been bounced again by Comcast. I have no idea why.
Barry, That is a fantastic gear box. I have been following this post for a while and am glad to see the photos. I like the setscrew on the driver gear. Keep up the good work!!!
Thanks, Dave.
Each gear has had the set screw enlarged, typically they come with a 4-40 set screw and I enlarge that to a 6-32.
In most cases there is a flat on the shaft, so we have a larger set screw with a place to tighten it to. On the wormgear I enlarge the set screw hole to a 6-32 and then use a 6-32 Capscrew, now that is something I can tighten.
The worm has two 4-40 SS set screws, 90 degrees from each other. The aluminum 16T spur gear comes with two 4-40 set screw holes. I drill out one of the holes to a 6-32, so this set screw has a flat on the shaft to lock on. I have changed the spec on the 16T aluminum gear for the next order. Just a note, I haven’t order the metal gears in a couple of years, so on a recent quote I was expecting an increase and I got one. Really with all things considered, not too bad.
The Acetal spur gears are narrowed to match the thickness of the aluminum spur gear, in doing that the set screw hole is moved closer to the gear face and changed to a 6-32. All of the spur gears are on shafts which have a flat for the set screws. Each set screw is applied with Locktite #222.
Who was who said “the devil was in the details”; just look at this, and all we’re talking about is set screws.
Barry - BBT
Hi Barry, found my way here. Needed two ea. One ASAP. looks sturdy enough. 2-8-0 drive/gearbox assy.
John,
Thank you for the order.
It will be as soon as I can, and consider there are a few others ahead of you.
A few more glitches and should be able to approach TOC for his blessing.
Barry - BBT
Why TOC?
He hath forsaken us.
TOC is the man who tests all my “improvements”. No hemming or hawwing, no try to be nice, but rather this is what I found. And sometimes here is how I think you can fix it.
Russ Reinberg used to test for me, but Russ got busy elsewhere. I had run into TOC by that time so the change was seamless. Dave really proved himself about ten years ago. He called and described a situation where the loco was surging so bad it was popping logs off of a trailing car. My daughter-in-law lived in Seattle and my wife scheduled a visit a short time later to see her daughter.
Went to Dave’s house and Dave showed me what he was talking about. A real problem. So back to Vegas and I worked on that solution, we tried flywheels (which helped nothing). I started looking at other locos, which I new didn’t surge. I discovered they all used double thread worms and wormgears. So I built the first prototype, sent it to Dave. We beat the surging, but the gear ratio was too high. Built another, which was too slow (but is still running on Dave’s layout. But finally settled on midway gear ration, which is what I use today. And there have been other things over the years.
But, I have a great deal of faith and trust in Dave. In my book, he says something is happening, it is.
Barry - BBT
John, Not forsaken, but merely a respite.