Is this what you have?
And not like this?
I was working from this pic ^
Sorry
Devon,
You are correct on all counts except that the face of the wheel is plastic and fragile. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
Sean,
That is the crank pin and not the axle. It is part of the metal structure of the wheel but the axle goes into the plastic part.
*edited to add it is a lousy design!
I understand what John and Sean are saying. If the wheel looks like this
Then I totally get what your saying. Put this is not what mine “look like” the face does not “appear” to have this hole. Now if they have filled it with something that needs to be removed then OK. but the drivers on every Bachmann I own are smooth as a babies behind on the face. Not saying they aren’t filled and painted over that could be. But upon observation they do not look like this. Is there something in the hole that covers the axle end?
OK stop back the train up.
Sean in your response with three pictures. The upper right hand picture looks to me to be a normal B-mann 10 wheeler driver. The wheel on this porter looks exactly the same. The bottom picture, the one I posted of the gear, is the exact beast I am working with. They appear to me to be the exact same wheel attachment method. The “stuff” protruding from the side is the side rod and con rod which are not connected at wheel center (I think you know this) and are instead attached to the offset crank pin. On the wheel front it is smooth. You can not see the axle face at all. On the back side of the wheel the axle is inserted into a plastic piece that in turn is inserted into the wheel.
Dick Friedman said:
This afternoon I did a 16 tooth 14.5 mm gear (but without the shoulders in your drawing and without knowing the axle hole diameter. It took me about ten minutes. Go to Tinkercad. com and sign in (it’s free) On the work page is a column on the right. Go to Community contributions, and find ProGear. Even a newbie can figure out how to form a gear. I’ll walk you through the rest. If you are on Tinkercad, go to their search engine and enter Bachmann Trolley Gear 6.5 and take a look at the finished product.
If I can do it, anyone can. Don’t sell yourself short.
Dick I will certainly check it out. I am certain I do not have the tooth profile right. So I will go mess with tinkercad and see what I can come up with. Thanks for the help.
I under stand … I will just fade away …
No Sean please don’t “fade away” I value your input as I do Joe’s and John’s. If I am missing something please continue to help. I am not presuming to know anything on this. I only have my observations and they eyes can deceive.
Devon et al,
There is nothing that can be removed on the face of the wheel to expose the the axle end. It might be possible to drill a small hole in the plastic face to push the axle out , but why bother? Use the method I have used and be done with it! Be aware if you drill a hole that it must be small enough so the tiny shoulder on the axle has something to bear against when reinserted.
I didn’t realize that the axle ends are covered …
Never mind…
John
Nope can’t let it go!
So put the backside of the wheel so it sits flush with the top of the vices jaw and the axle passes thru the jaws
Use a needle nose piers and place this on the backside of the opposite wheel and gently tap the pliers to apply downward pressure.
Is this better?
Sean McGillicuddy said:
Nope can’t let it go!
So put the backside of the wheel so it sits flush with the top of the vices jaw and the axle passes thru the jaws
Use a needle nose piers and place this on the backside of the opposite wheel and gently tap the pliers to apply downward pressure.
Is this better?
Now that I could see working. Sean thanks for hangin’ in there.
Joe, Sean, and John
Guys I know we can get frustrated with one another at times. But I respect the heck out of you guys for stickin’ with me. You have the knowledge I don’t. Its easy to say I am not sticking my dog in that fight but then knowledge is not conveyed. You guys kept it polite and civil and I appreciate it and I learned from it. So thanks for hanging in there and playing nice even though it can be frustrating.
Dick Friedman said:
This afternoon I did a 16 tooth 14.5 mm gear (but without the shoulders in your drawing and without knowing the axle hole diameter. It took me about ten minutes. Go to Tinkercad. com and sign in (it’s free) On the work page is a column on the right. Go to Community contributions, and find ProGear. Even a newbie can figure out how to form a gear. I’ll walk you through the rest. If you are on Tinkercad, go to their search engine and enter Bachmann Trolley Gear 6.5 and take a look at the finished product.
If I can do it, anyone can. Don’t sell yourself short.
OK I will have to play with it some when I can measure my gear but that program is cool. I can see what your saying pretty user friendly. How do you add the shoulders. I think everything else I can figure out.
Devon et al,
I think we are all on the same page now. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Devon
Here are the pics~
Yeah I can see that if the split ring pliers don’t work. I can imagine they will be hard to come apart. I will tackle this tonight. Need to get it off so I can measure the gear correctly. Dicks TinkerCAD program is great for making gears as he said it would be. I have to get the tooth profile down but then it will allow me to export it as a .stl file which is what my printer guy needs. So I think I am moving forward.
He can print in nylon and I am thinking I might go that route. I am also going to look at making my shoulder wider and maybe put the piece of brass tubing on it right off as Kevin suggested to make a nice reinforced gear. I also am going to have several of them printed so I have a life time supply.
This maybe a great option for fixing the dreaded split gear problems.
Be careful with your plastic formula, the Chinese stuff shrunk causing the split.
Of course if they are cheap and more practice makes more better, then forge ahead … ahem I don’t think bronze will shrink…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
John
If your printer guy can print with ABS (rather than PLA, which is more common, and what I use), try ABS. The fit should be snug, but if you paint some nail polish remover on the axle, that will soften the ABS while you push the gear onto the knurled shaft. I think Bachmann’s original gears are nylon, and that didn’t seem to work so well .
To get the shoulders, you make a rod the length you want it and insert it into the center of the gear. This will fill the existing hole in the gear. Group the gear and the rod. Then you put a hole in the center of the gear AND the rod. To get the axle diameter correct, you need to make the hole about 1mm bigger than the axle diameter. Make a solid rod the thickness of the gear and the required shoulders about 4 mm larger than the axle hole (which is 1mm bigger than the axle diameter). Insert that into the center of the gear you’ve already made and “group” them. Then make another rod 1mm larger than the axle, convert it to a “hole” and insert it into the gear. The “align” tool makes that easy and exact!
And there you go!
This gear has shoulders on both sides of the gear, and may be a little trickier to print. I’d only put the shoulder on one side of the gear for simplicity and hope that’s enough on the knurls to keep everything from slipping.
John,
I would much prefer bronze. I think that is a no brainier. Can you cast them in fine enough detail? I have asked around and it is not feasible to get a one off bronze gear. It’s a lack of options. If you think you can make me a bronze gear I would jumpnat it.
With 3D printing it maybe plastic but making one off gears is no big deal and won’t cost me a fortune to have ten or twenty made and have a life time supply.
But I would much prefer a bronze one. And if I had one printed in plastic could we then use that as a blank for making bronze castings?
John,
I would much prefer bronze. I think that is a no brainier. Can you cast them in fine enough detail? I have asked around and it is not feasible to get a one off bronze gear. It’s a lack of options. If you think you can make me a bronze gear I would jumpnat it.
With 3D printing it maybe plastic but making one off gears is no big deal and won’t cost me a fortune to have ten or twenty made and have a life time supply.
But I would much prefer a bronze one. And if I had one printed in plastic could we then use that as a blank for making bronze castings?