I’ve been contemplating this thread since it was only 2 pages long. (And with this response, I’ve added another two pages, so I apologize in advance for the length.)
“The Chinese are world famous for reverse engineering and copying the superior product of others. Why cannot Bachmann simply reverse engineer and copy the LGB Mogul drive for a high reliable drive?”
In a way, they have, though not LGB. (I wouldn’t want LGB’s “block” motor on a steamer anyway; you can’t do that and have a prototypical space between the boiler and the frame, or things like prototypical valve gear, etc.–but I digress.) Bachmann’s new C-19 is as good a runner as I have ever come across in large scale. It rivals the best efforts of Accucraft, LGB, and others reputed for their strong engineering and smooth performance. Pittman motor, large metal gears, decent gear ratio; to be frank (and no disparagement meant to Barry’s drives) it’s every bit equal to a BBT drive. It’s that good. All those years we’ve been posting on these forums that Bachmann should just copy Barry’s drive, they’ve listened. (Though clearly this is their own design, not a copy of Barry’s.) I’ve got a C-19 powered by one of Barry’s custom drives. I’ve also got a Bachmann C-19. The two locos are very evenly matched, with a slight nod going to Bachmann’s drive at start-up and very slow speeds.
Flash in the pan or sign of things to come? That has yet to be determined. Bachmann (and others) have a habit of re-inventing the wheel to some extent with each loco they produce. But consider this; we spend a lot of time talking about the “Connie” with its notorious gear issue (and the 4-4-0/2-6-0 that uses the same gear), or the Shay or some of Bachmann’s other notorious foibles. And those issues are legitimate. But more and more, they represent the early history of what Bachmann has produced. All of those locos have been out for at least a decade or longer; yet we talk about them as if they’re representative of the current state of affairs. I don’t think that’s fair commentary.
I’ve owned or operated a lot of what Bachmann has produced, for better or for worse. I can almost replace a broken gear in a “Connie” blindfolded. I’ve re-motored my 2-6-0 because the stock motor was underpowered. They’ve had their trip-ups. But they’ve also learned from the past. Since the K-27 (and despite the gear ratio debate with that loco), the drives have been pretty problem-free. The K-27–with or without Rodney’s gearhead reducer–runs very smoothly, and Bachmann fixed the original counterweight issue almost immediately. I had no complaints about the performance of mine on my own railroad (2% maximum grade) prior to installing Rodney’s gearhead reducer, though I readily admit the reduction makes it an even stronger performer (if a bit noisier). I’ve got two locos that use the trucks from a 45-tonner, and in both cases, the locos run very smoothly. The one that runs on my dad’s line does have some surging going down steep grades (4% or greater) with a heavy train in tow, but that’s a behavior common to many of the locos on his railroad no matter who makes them. (Still working on figuring out how to put a “retainer” on the caboose to stretch out the train. I may work on that for my trip east this Summer…) The one that operates on my railroad can just crawl at 1 scale mph and couple to a train. (Or–at that speed–push the train down the track without actually closing the coupler because there’s not enough force.) My 2nd-generation Climax runs just as smoothly.
The Forney, 2-6-6-2, re-engineered 2-4-2, Davenport, etc.–the forums are pretty quiet when it comes to these locos. Given how we (generally speaking) love to complain when things don’t work, I’d chalk this up to “no news is good news.” I’ve owned and/or worked on a few of these, and have no real complaints about their running characteristics. They’re all “average” or better.
“Rose colored glasses?” I’d like to think not. I don’t do anything “special” to my locomotives, in fact I probably do less than most. My experiences with Bachmann’s early offerings mirror most others’ experiences, so I have every reason to expect my experiences with their later ones to be similarly indicative of the overall class.
“The Connie frame side detail is more involved than the C-19 and yet there is now a very large retail price gap between the two models.”
These two locos are in completely different classes. The “Connie” doesn’t hold a candle to the C-19 in terms of detail, accuracy, performance, or complexity. Don’t get me wrong; the “Connie” is a nice locomotive–I love mine–but it’s pretty generic and the details are not necessarily accurate. (Don’t know that you’d really want to run the water line from the tender straight into the firebox.) If you want that loco to qualify as “super-detailed,” you’ll be spending a few evenings in the workshop with a drawer full of Trackside Details and Ozark Miniatures parts. The C-19, on the other hand, is “super-detailed” pretty much straight out of the box. I spent a good deal of time crawling over the C-19 at the Colorado RR museum when I was scratchbuilding mine. There’s not many details Bachmann missed–including prototypically operating clamshell firebox doors (okay, sans the pedal to operate the air to open them, but I had that on my model and it broke off very early on, so I’ll forgive them.)
Likewise, if the “Connie” had the drive that the C-19 has in it, you wouldn’t be buying it for $275 from Trainworld. Do I wish the “Connie” had a more robust drive straight from the factory? Absolutely! But you’re not going to get BBT-level performance without BBT-level price tag. And the “Connie” was produced in a time when that wasn’t the business model.
Add to that the electronics in the C-19 that the “Connie” lacks, and the price differential is very easy to understand. When you look at the C-19, as well as the K-27, Forney, and their recent “high-dollar” models, they are worlds apart from the other, cheaper locos Bachmann has produced. You don’t get something for nothing. Those improvements in terms of detail, drive quality, and on-board electronics cost money.
The bigger issue is whether the move towards $800+ locomotives will “scare” people from the hobby. I honestly don’t think so. When you put the B’mann K-27 or C-19 next to the Accucraft models at twice or three times the price, what are you getting for that extra money? Brass construction. So what? Put a coat of paint on it, and you’ll never know. (And in our scale, “unpainted brass” isn’t an option.) That’s the field these newer locomotives are playing in. In terms of detail and performance they’re on near equal footing. And, you can feel a heckuvalot better taking a razor saw to an $800 locomotive than a $2400 one. Or at least you can be a bit more assured of not sleeping on the couch after your spouse finds out you did.
Trouble is, where does that leave the “budget-conscious” modeler? In reality, the same place they’ve always been. Thirty years ago, there was LGB. Adjusted to 2010 dollars, the prices of their locos were very similar to the $800 we’re paying for Bachmann’s latest locos. As a result, we bought fewer locos. From 1976 to 1985–the first 10 years dad and I were in the hobby–we bought all of 3 new locomotives. That was it! No large fleets, no 50-car trains to pull behind; it was “save up and buy a few cars or a new locomotive as you can.” Then the “inexpensive” alternatives started hitting the market, and we bought more and more as a result. We had to repaint or do some detailing to get them to match the LGB stuff, but what the heck… they were cheap enough!
Those “inexpensive” alternatives still exist. They’re not specifically 1:20, or necessarily “new-in-box,” but they’re there. The “Annie” is still probably the best value for the dollar in large scale, and with very little effort can be “boosted” to 1:20.3. (I’ve got one in progress right now.) Or Bachmann’s smaller locos like the 0-4-0, etc., or for that matter, a NIB “Connie” and a BBT drive will only set you back around $500 total, or go cheap and get the metal replacement gear for $10 and if you’re adventurous, buy a replacement motor from NWSL for $40 to give it a bit more power. There are definitely things you can do for comparatively very little money. Not to be morbid, but none of us are getting any younger, and estate sales are a great way to pick up equipment on the cheap. You’ve got to be a bit more “plugged in” to the modeling scene to really take advantage of that, so for a newcomer it may be a bit difficult at first, but the deals are out there. (Commercial interruption: I’ve still got custom-weathered, DCC-equipped K-27 for sale.)
What’s “missing” from the equation is a line of specifically 1:20 equipment aimed at the “budget conscious” modeler like we had with the early stuff from Kalamazoo or Bachmann’s 1:22 stuff. But I honestly don’t think there’s much of a market for that, so I’m neither holding my breath nor looking to invest. I’d like to be proven wrong on that front, as I’d much rather plunk down $50 for a generic box car to which I can add my own details rather than shell out $100 for one I have to cut up. But I don’t think I’m the “typical” hobbyist. There have been other similar offerings over the years in the other scales, and none have gained any traction. (Think NWSL’s “Spartan” On3 locomotives from year back.) I think modelers who are of that mind are already buying the 1:22 stuff and modifying it to suit their needs, if not scratchbuilding, or just resigning themselves to building their collection a lot more slowly than they might otherwise do if prices were lower. Given the space that 1:20 equipment takes up, I’m not certain that’s a bad thing.
The $64,000 question is whether a manufacturer can survive on $800 locomotives alone (or a mix of $800 locos and $130 box cars.) I think if the quality is there, then yes. (And it seems that the overall trend is for the quality to be there.) And the hobby will survive as well. Is it “sticker shock” for the modeler? Sure, but in an age where you pay $50 for a round of golf (to say nothing of $1,000 for a single club), or $600 to take your family to a single football game, I think it doesn’t take long for people to put things in perspective and bite the bullet. You can spend $1,000 for a golf club, it’s not going to help your swing. At least you know the loco will stay on the track.
Later,
K