Large Scale Central

Bachmann Connie Bash Thread. Post your pictures here

Modeling
#21

Bob, if you use both screws and contact cement it will be even stronger than the original frame. I’ll flip mine over and take pix, Updated with pix: Topside, ignore the dust, I haven’t run her since mid-December

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/P1010039_02.jpg)

underneath, I glued the cut off bit underneath the frame with gel superglue just for looks, but there are two small countersunk screws underneath it (you’ll have to take my word for it)

(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/P1010040_01.jpg)

Hope this helps

#22

I used one of those short Kadee’s that mounted right on the front of the pilot beam. Don’t remember the number…but you use the Accucraft ones anyway.

#23

Here’s a pitcher…

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/RGS00010.jpg)

#24

I like the looks of the lowered tender, how do you guys achieve that?

#25

Using a dremel saw, I cut the mounting boss off flush with the floor of the tender. Then I cut out slices of the boss, test fitting, until I got the look I needed, then glued it back in place, with some reinforcing styrene. I had to bend the drawbar a bit, too, since in its stock state it wants to hold the front truck up in the air a bit.

#26

Interesting how many of these are riding back end low… Anybody found stronger springs for the rear axle?

#27

Great thread Terry

I don’t have any photos of the ones that I have done and left the shop. When I get C-21’s and C-25 done I’ll get them posted.

Mik said:
Interesting how many of these are riding back end low... Anybody found stronger springs for the rear axle?
David What I've done on the ones that have came through the shop is take out the rear weight and add weight to the front of the boiler by taking out the smoke unit. I've never weighed how much I added, but just enough to get it to set level. I never did a drawbar test on a stock one but on the ones I've modified, they will pull 40 pounds of lead in the gons up my 4% grades.

Rodney

#28

Lots of god ideas here. Mine is still stock, for now :slight_smile:

#29
Jon Radder said:
Lots of god ideas here. Mine is still stock, for now :)
If I send you a hobby knife and a tube of glue when can you start? ;)
#30

Quote:
… I like the looks of the lowered tender, how do you guys achieve that?

On TRR #3 and WRY #14, new tender frames. On D&RGW #350, I just added a strip of styrene to the bottom edge of the existing frame, essentially doubling the thickness of the frame. Instant “lowered” tender without much effort at all.

(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/drg350/drgw35013.jpg)

Later, K

#31

Great Idea Kevin. That is going on my list of things to do to my Connie.

Dont worry Jon. Mine is still stock too. But not for long, I got some things planned once I get my trestle finished.

#32

Thanks Mik - I have plenty of glue and knives. If you could send me a ton of motivation and a few hundred hours to use it in I would be grateful.

#33
Jon Radder said:
Thanks Mik - I have plenty of glue and knives. If you could send me a ton of motivation and a few hundred hours to use it in I would be grateful.
You wouldn't believe how bad MY giveadamn is busted... I've been building just to take my mind off our new landlord situation
#34

Hey guys, just wanted something simple done with mine- haven’t done any lettering since the rebuild. I guess the biggest change was probably the running gear. I like the way it looks now…

(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk184/GFDMatt/Trains/My%20f%20scale/connierebuilt.jpg)

Matt

#35

Kevin, love your Colorado-ized Connie. Matt, interesting valve gear change. It’s something I’ve thought about, as I don’t really car for the stock Baker? setup.

#36

I’ve heard the Annie valve gear can be made to fit, but I can’t find a photo example of this. I think it was something David Fletcher did …

Matthew (OV)

PS. For those of you interested, here’s the stock gear at work in the 1:1 world

[youtube]http://youtu.be/VpB1lVoYKvM[/youtube]

Damn … ok, use this: http://youtu.be/VpB1lVoYKvM

#37

Re: “tail dragging”.

Tried to address this in my instruction set. Dave Goodson pointed out that the loco was tail heavy. So we included a section on “Engine Balance”. By adding more weight to the nose, it levels out the attitude of the loco.

We used to balance locos in the smaller scales with benefit. Our thought is that more benefit would be had since the changes would have a greater impact in our scale.

Barry

#38

Thanks Barry. I guess I’m a moron, I’da thunk balancing it woulda been sumptin B’mann shoulda done back in the design stage.

But then, their other short sightedness has made you a bunch of hobby money over the years. “Snatching defeat from the jaws of victory!” should be their corporate slogan lol

Any idea about how much does it want in the nose. I’ve got some used tire weights around here someplace

#39

Barry,

I bought my K27 about 4 years ago. I recently had to replace a circuit board in the loco and noticed while it was apart that there is only one weight stack directly in front of the motor/gear box. A fellow club member bought one recently (second hand) and while he was installing sound and Revolution I saw his has the same weight stack as mine plus an additional weight stack in front of that. Could that be the reason for the additional weight stack in the newer K27’s?

Bob C.

#40

Bob,

I don’t know about the K-27, but your assumption could be correct.

Dave Goodson told me he had a real pile of tire stick-on weight before he got it balance.

Barry