Hey guys. Just joyned this site and like it so much better then the other site I was on. I picked up a Bachman 2-8-0 and I need to convert to battery and install Airwire. I have already done I few other conversions but I could use some advice before I start disassmbly. What is the largest battery I can install? I hope spelling wont count against me.
Welcome!
What type of battery are you considering?
I use lithium ion in my C-19.
I will be using lithium ion
I’d use a 14.8 volt battery. If you’re talking about the outside-frame 2-8-0, then you should be able to easily fit a 4400 - 5600 mAh battery pack in the tender. If it’s the C-19, that same pack may fit in the back, but for that one, I just use a 2600mAh pack, and avail myself of the removable coal load to just swap it out when it goes flat.
Later,
K
The problem with the 2-8-0 connie tender is that it isn’t tall. Length isn’t an issue though. When ordering batteries be sure the pack is only 2 high on the flat stack (batteries on their side). Three high won’t fit in the tender. This is for the CONNIE tender, I don’t have first hand experience with the C-19.
not telling you to buy this just an example:
http://www.all-battery.com/AT_Tenergy_Li-Ion_18650_14.8V_5200mAhRectangularBatteryPackWithPCB-31892.aspx
Batteries are only stacked 2 high.
This WILL NOT fit in a stock tender:
http://www.all-battery.com/li-ion18650148v6600mahrechargeablebatterypackwithpcbprotection.aspx
The 5200 will give you 5 hours give or take of run time. I have a BBT drive in mine and I get at least 6 hours on a full charge. Check out cordless renovations, all battery & battery space (i’m sure there’s more) for prices and styles.
Terry
When Terry says 5 hours of run time, what he is talking about is 5 hours of continuous running, on a relatively flat track, with a short train, say less than 4-5 cars, with the locomotive chasing its caboose around a loop track. Having everything well lubed will help out a lot, too.
If you do any switching of cars, you will be able to greatly extend your battery life because of all the stopping and starting and time spent coupling or uncoupling, and trying to figure out just how am I going to get that car into that spot and get everything back like it was.
Welcome aboard. This is a good place to get your answers questioned. You don’t have to be crazy to hang out here, but it helps a lot.
Hey guys. Thanks for all the advice. I have been getting my bats from all-bat. It is the Connie that I have so that advice is a great help. I also need to get a bat for my blower car, I’ll get a NIMH for the weight and price.
I use only NiMH any more. I will not, under any circumstances, use 787 flamethrowers.
I put 4500 MAH NiMH in the tender, 14.4V, the locomotive will run, in service, 150’ of 4% grades with varying train lengths, for longer than anyone’s legs around here will hold up.
Right angle triangle length, up inside the corners. I always split my load, find they track better. NEVER listen to folks who tell you to put a brick aft of the rear truck. Backing a train, it will lift the nose of the tender.
I don’t have top deal with special chargers, balancing chargers, placing the batteries in a porcelain bowl on a bench 15 feet from any structure and monitor the charge (and that is from the model airplane guy’s forums).
TOC
Good idea about splitting the load, I’ll give it try.
Fortunately I can still get Sub-C NiCd cells for conversions I do.
7.2 volt 2,500 mah packs will run a Connie and train for at least 2 hours. Plenty of run time for yhe average operator.
I do use Sub-C NiMh as well but find that their self discharge rate is a put off if the loco is only going to be used occasionally.
You can get 7.2 volt Sub-C NiCd’s from China for about US$18 each post paid.
http://www.dinodirect.com/ni-cd-7-2v-2500mah-battery-pack.html
They also have 8.4 volt packs and 9.6 volt packs.
Hobby King have low cost smart chargers.
Welcome Louis.
While you’re at it, you might want to add Barry Olsen’s Big Drive to your Connie. No more gear broken or stripped. Very strong drive. Pulls very well and “bullet-proof”!!
I never thought of that Gary, thanks. I am still a little hesitant to work on this loco myself.
I had Jonathan Bliese of Electric/Steam Model Works, in Chino, CA do my install…BOTH Airwire/Phoenix install and the BBT drive. Russ Rutalj (a member here on LSC) has his Connie down to Jonathan’s now for the same install.
Despite the strong opinions of some…
I can only offer an opinion based on my experience. On the “Connie” older Bachmann 2-8-0. This is most recognizable by the headlight mounted to the smokebox door. For this loco I used a 14.8V 5200 mAh pack. This pack is configured in a 4 x 4 setup.
img[img]
I put this pack at the back of the tender and had it laying down on it’s side. This fit in the space real well. I expect around 4 hours of runtime on my layout.
On my Bachmann C-19 (this is the new version of a 2-8-0). I used two 14.8V 2400 mAh packs. I placed these on top and to each side of the electronics boards inside the tender. I didn’t want to remove the fan inside the tender, so I couldn’t use the larger 5200 mAh pack.
img[img]
Now the opinion:
I prefer Li-Ion packs. Number one reason is I don’t have to worry about battery drain from storage. I can charge a battery and let it set on the shelf for a month and still be able to run the loco without having to charge again. I also prefer the lighter weight of Li-Ion. Weight is not as big of a factor with Li-Ion then it is with Alkaline based batteries.
Now many will say that there is a fire hazard with Li-Ion, and I would agree to some extent. If you are leaving your loco sitting on a charger for a long time or even days on end. Then you are asking for trouble no matter what the chemistry of your battery. I charge my locos for about an hour or two and then unplug them. The entire time I am monitoring them for any problems. If I am going to leave, then I unplug the charger and then continue charging once I get back, if I feel its needed (most of the time I don’t). Finally, the fire hazard is overstated. If you are that scared of Li-Ion batteries “blowing up”, then you better take stock of the electronic devices in your home. A huge majority of the modern ones use Li-Ion batteries.
I hope it helps you with your install. Good Luck.
Every bit of info helps. It is the Connie that I have. Which brings up something else. On this Connie I am missing the marker lights on the smoke box and the hatch on the cab roof. Can’t seem to locate any. Would these be the same parts that are now on the C-19?
The connie didn’t come with markers just the mounts. I made flags to put in them. The hatch could be reproduced with a square of styrene.
Terry
I’m just starting down this road myself. I tore down the tender today and removed all the track power pickups and wiring. When replacing the trucks I eliminated the two vertical tabs on either side of the bolster mount since they seemed to add drag. Will this make the tender too unstable side-to-side causing it to lean? They are easy to put back.
Thank you Terry. I just had to open my eyes a little wider to see they were not marker light mounts.
Jon Radder said:
I’m just starting down this road myself. I tore down the tender today and removed all the track power pickups and wiring. When replacing the trucks I eliminated the two vertical tabs on either side of the bolster mount since they seemed to add drag. Will this make the tender too unstable side-to-side causing it to lean? They are easy to put back.
I would put back the tabs. They prevent side rocking. Although, if there are none on one truck it makes the tender a three point suspension which aids stabilty and tracking.