Large Scale Central

Bachman 2-8-0 conversion

Electronics Power and Sound
#21

I have always eliminated those tabs on the dozens of these locos i have converted. This is because i also lower the tender down by cutting and modifying the bolsters. looks so much better. Once lowered, have never had an issue with tipping or instability. Lithium batteries are lighter , which also helps. Finally, I have some very nice flat pack configuration batteries with a one year warranty rather than the typical 90 days that also assist with stability of the tender, but it has never really been any problem.

jonathan

www.rctrains.com

#22

Thanks Jonathan. I already have batteries in stock (individual cells) that I can lay out in whatever configuration works best. I’ll look at lowering the tender.

#23

An alternative to lowering the tender, just beef up the frames with some added strip styrene along the bottom.

(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/eastbroadtop/drg350/drgw35011.jpg)

(Or, build a new frame.)

Later,

K

#24

Thanks Kevin - I had noticed you mention that before. Seems to me to be an easier option and eliminates any problem with the pin height,

I made the commitment to make this loco self-contained R/C by ordering an RX and ESC. I can’t afford a sound board at the moment, so I’m going to re-purpose a Big Sound '97 that’s currently living in an un-used GP9. I’ll send the chips to Phoenix to change the sound to an EBT Mike with manual bell/whistle.

#25

Jon Radder said:

Thanks Kevin - I had noticed you mention that before. Seems to me to be an easier option and eliminates any problem with the pin height,

I made the commitment to make this loco self-contained R/C by ordering an RX and ESC. I can’t afford a sound board at the moment, so I’m going to re-purpose a Big Sound '97 that’s currently living in an un-used GP9. I’ll send the chips to Phoenix to change the sound to an EBT Mike with manual bell/whistle.

Maybe I’m wrong about this (on a Big Sound 97), but can’t you download that file from Phoenix website and install in the board using the interface cable. I’m only familiar with the boards P5 and later. I’m curious.

#26

The 97 was not programmable, you had to change out the socketed chip

#27

Dan is correct. Phoenix will reprogram the chips for a small fee. The 2K2 was the first user programmable board.

#28

I did what Kevin did (actually I stole it from him, he he he). It looks good enough to me.

#29

Jon Radder said:

Dan is correct. Phoenix will reprogram the chips for a small fee. The 2K2 was the first user programmable board.

Thanks, I didn’t know that. I started using Phoenix in 2007 (with the P5).

#30

Jon, if the P97 EBT sound file is the same (or mostly the same) as what you can now download onto the current-generation Phoenix boards, you’ll be VERY happy with the way it sounds in the 2-8-0. After programming my dad’s 2-8-0 with the EBT sound and getting it tweaked on my last trip back east, I liked it so much I changed the C-21 sound file I had in my 2-8-0 to the EBT sound file. Sounds GREAT! Put as large a speaker into the tender as you can, though the tender shell itself makes a nice enclosure for it regardless of its size.

When you say “manual triggers,” do you mean track magnet type triggers, or using the function outputs of the ESC to trigger them? (Not that it makes much difference, I guess, I’m more curious than anything.)

Later,

K

#31

@K I’m pretty sure it’s the same sound. I’ve have it on my 2K2 sound trail car that used to be pulled behind this 2-8-0.

What I mean by manual triggers is no automatic (speed base) bell or crossing whistle. I prefer the latching bell (stays on until triggered again) and the fully manual whistle (no crossing sound). And yes I will drive them from the ESC.using the inputs on the P97 for trigger reeds, but no reeds/magnets. My Shay is set up this way with a P97 only it has the timed bell and programmed crossing whistle. Fortunately I learned that if you trigger the bell and whistle once it will not play based on speed which is a good thing.