Large Scale Central

Analysis Paralysis: Llagas Creek vs AML aluminum track?

Track and Trestles
#1

Hi folks,

As planning continues on the SMTN Railroad, I am planning on an aluminum track, mostly flextrack, for my garden setup. My leading choices are the Llagas Creek code 250 and the American Mainline code 332.

The AML is slightly less expensive, probably more resistant to damage, and a little out of scale for my 1:22.5 stock, I guess. Not sure where to get turnouts.

The Llagas Creek is closer to scale, though that is not a HUGE issue for me at this point.

Any suggestions on how to break this mental impasse?

Or am I missing some fundamental key point?

edit: Looking at our sponsor RLD hobbies, the price seems to be the same!

#2

Do you have deer in you neighborhood?

#3

Michael,

Have you looked at Micro Engineering code 250 alum. there used to be yet another supplier of the same rail cross section. that is why i initially whent with it. there are different base widths between them so be carfull there. Micro Engineering and Llagas creek do not mate. I have heard that Switch crafters makes some really good turnouts in both rail sizes. i have hand laid all of mine but that is not for every one

#4

Steve: Yes, sometimes there are deer, if we forget to close the gate. I do plan to have a very solid roadbed under the track.

Al: I had forgotten about Micro Engineering. Their website doesn’t carry much useful information, but they seem to be liked by others.

#5

Sunset Valley Railroad has it also. If you get Llagas, make sure you get it with the ties on, stringing the ties on is a BEAR! My friend got it from them and all the ‘tools’ to help put it on and still has struggled with it. I know SVRR ties slide on fine on their rail. AML has code 250 also and I’ve used their ties on my SVRR rail, and they seem to fit fine on the Llagas rail I was fixing for my friend. SVRR has about the best switches around and I like their ground throws.
http://www.svrronline.com/index.htm

#6

Jerry Barnes said:
… If you get Llagas, make sure you get it with the ties on, stringing the ties on is a BEAR! My friend got it from them and all the ‘tools’ to help put it on and still has struggled with it.

I made my own little fixture, bought enough WD40 and it goes a bit easier now. :lol: :lol:

(http:///F-PIX/LlagasAssembly01_s.jpg)

on that subject http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=9363

#7

Pam, the spray vegetable oil works well, too, and can be used in large quantities indoors, for those of you who do this in the winter.

Soapy water works well, too.

#8
Jerry Barnes said:
Sunset Valley Railroad has it also. If you get Llagas, make sure you get it with the ties on, stringing the ties on is a BEAR! My friend got it from them and all the 'tools' to help put it on and still has struggled with it. I know SVRR ties slide on fine on their rail. AML has code 250 also and I've used their ties on my SVRR rail, and they seem to fit fine on the Llagas rail I was fixing for my friend. SVRR has about the best switches around and I like their ground throws. http://www.svrronline.com/index.htm
I have to agree wiyh Jerry about the difficulty putting ties on LLagas rail (code 250 alum). One sample of LLagas track convinced me to go with Sunset Valley! Very easy to assemble ties to rail, no struggling. SV rail works great with AMS narrow gauge ties, I might add.

AND I truly feel that Sunset Valley turnouts are the best out there. Precision workmanship. All built on precision fixtures and jigs.

My layout is ALL Sunset Valley code 250 aluminum using BOTH SV NG ties on most of the line and AMS NG ties on all bridges.

#9

Code 250 is fairly easy to bend - I did not need a rail bender on my layout. I’m not sure about the code 332.

#10
Bruce Chandler said:
Code 250 is fairly easy to bend - I did not need a rail bender on my layout. I'm not sure about the code 332.
I use Aristo's Code 332 on the newest part of my layout, and have no trouble "belly bending" it. It really is quite flexible.

I’ve even tried just bending it around the curve as I screw down the ties, like we did with H0, just to see if it could be done. It could, but I read somewhere that the rails would try to spring back when the temperature changed, so I re-did it.

#11
Michael Moradzadeh said:
Any suggestions on how to break this mental impasse?
Will you use track power? If so, brass might be a better choice than aluminum. Just my opinion.

Since you have to deal with the @#$! oversized rodents–um, I mean–the deer, brass is stronger than aluminum and code 332 is stronger than code 250. I’m using AML 332 and like it a lot.

Again, just my opinion.

Steve

#12
Michael Moradzadeh said:
Not sure where to get turnouts.
The Train-Li turnouts match the AML 332 track very well. They come in (at least) three radii. I use the R7's. Robbie sells these, too.

Steve

#13

Sorry, the locos will be battery powered. So conductivity is not a big issue.

#14

Michael,

My RR is almost 100% Llagas Creek code 250 aluminum except for the very earliest part which is also code 250 aluminum but by PHS Rail in Canada (no longer available I believe). The track, ties and switches (with Tenmille ground throws) have held up beautifully in all weather. I did buy the track already assembled however so no problem there.

A couple of things to consider however:
If the track is to be at ground level and you have large animals running about or even careless children aluminum is very prone to damage. You might want to consider using code 332 brass in that case for the extra strength. If painted or allowed to weather to a dark brown as LGB track will do the larger rail isn’t really all that noticeable. If elevated on the other hand as to be viewed at close to eye level its appearance is very large indeed. This is definitely a matter of personal tolerance.

I honestly can’t say which brand of track is best as I haven’t used all of them. Many other people have had equally good luck with the other brands mentioned so maybe it’s just a matter of checking out looks, availability and price and going with the best deal for you. I would suggest trying to standardize on one brand though because if the ties aren’t interchangeable on the different brands of rail neither will the rail joiners. To stick with one brand you are happy with will save a lot of headaches.

You might want to splurge just a bit and order samples from the different suppliers so you can judge for yourself. Too the service and responsiveness you get from ordering the samples may very well reflect their service generally which can also be a factor in your final choice.

Best wishes for a successful endeavor.

#15

Hmm. Samples. Yeah, that makes a lot of sense. If only I can get the deer to step on them!

#16

The best track is the track that cost the least :slight_smile:

#17

I had a deer step on a 5 ft piece of stainless steel track. He was able to put in a nice vertical curve. Of course, it was not where I wanted one.

#18

Step, Jump or land? It probably makes a difference…kind of like a cat, when walking across you in the middle of the night, can put all of it’s weight on one paw on you…

Chas

#19

Mashed rail can happen in larger scales than ours. Once saw a Percheron draft horse go “Clomp!” on one aluminum rail to the 7 1/2 inch gauge track at our local transportation museum. Put a healthy dimple in the rail, of course his shoe probably made things worse.

Yours,
David Meashey

#20
W. Chas. Ronolder IV said:
Step, Jump or land? It probably makes a difference....kind of like a cat, when walking across you in the middle of the night, can put all of it's weight on one paw on you....

Chas


Well, yeah, I suppose it makes a difference, but it didn’t to that poor piece of stainless.

I’m not sure that even a TrainLi could straighten it out.