Large Scale Central

An "Operations-Quality" Boxcar

Modeling
#1

I believe it was Bob that coined the term “operations-quality”. It’s not a contest quality model at all, but is designed to hold up to the rigors of being transported between shed and railroad without losing a lot of pieces along the way.

I had some wood siding and other parts lying around so decided to make such a car. It should be pretty sturdy; it uses some superglue and brass escutcheon pins to hold parts in place.

The stirrup steps are made from brass strips I had; I followed the article here to build them. the grab irons are also brass - 1 mm rod in this case and formed using a jig.

The door hardware is all brass; not much detail, but enough to look like a door if you squint from 10 feet away…

There’s no brake detail, although there is a cylinder glued underneath; the idea is to not add details that are not seen in a typical operations session.

The roof walk strips will be glued in place after it receives a coat of paint.

Trucks are from AMS.

Nothing fancy, but hopefully a good operating car.

ARTICLE: A Master Index for the J&B RR
#2

Looks fine to me. I too build running models, not museum models, and for the same reason.

#3

Bruce, you need to slow down. We worry about you. BTW, nice looking car.

Doc Watson

#4

Thanks.

Another good reason for not doing any detailing: my cars are stored outside and the spiders seem to really like brake rigging. Even with a shop vac, it’s hard to get the webs off!

#5

Bruce Chandler said:

Thanks.

Another good reason for not doing any detailing: my cars are stored outside and the spiders seem to really like brake rigging. Even with a shop vac, it’s hard to get the webs off!

I use dead moths for details. Raises some eyebrows…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

#6

Great looking boxcar Bruce. Thanks for the attached article, now I just need to construct a jig like that for my 1/29th scale stuff. Do you have an article on how you make your grab irons?

#7

Chuck Inlow said:

Great looking boxcar Bruce.

Hey, I think Chuck just gave you a new nickname… Boxcar Bruce! BTW great looking car! -Kevin.

#8

".…the spiders seem to really like brake rigging. Even with a shop vac, it’s hard to get the webs off! … "

Faaast pass with a handheld b-b-que starter will shrivel them up and leave some weathering residue behind.

{lgb telegram, winter 2002, v13 #4, doug c (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)}

Doug C

#9

Chuck Inlow said:

Great looking boxcar Bruce. Thanks for the attached article, now I just need to construct a jig like that for my 1/29th scale stuff. Do you have an article on how you make your grab irons?

Never wrote one on grab irons. As I remember, I did this following Bob’s lead. He made a big for his EBT cars. I don’t know if he ever wrote it up.

#10

dieseldude . said:

Chuck Inlow said:

Great looking boxcar Bruce.

Hey, I think Chuck just gave you a new nickname… Boxcar Bruce! BTW great looking car! -Kevin.

(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)

#11

Very nice Bruce, almost in all cases 99% of all people see the overall picture, they see a boxcar, couldn’t tell you 2 minutes later anything about

except the color, and MAYBE how many wheels it had, 4 or 8.

The other 1%, oh well i will keep quiet about them.

Good post

Dennis

#12

Chuck Inlow said:

Great looking boxcar Bruce. Thanks for the attached article, now I just need to construct a jig like that for my 1/29th scale stuff. Do you have an article on how you make your grab irons?

Chuck,

I found a picture of the jig I use for grab irons.

It’s really made for the EBT style grab irons. I start by inserting a brass rod in the top middle hole. Then I bend it towards the bottom of the picture. Next, bend it left or right, depending on which way you need it. Then down and it’s finished. The two holes in the front are used to bend different lengths of straight grab irons. Here’s what they looked like before painting…

For the straight grab irons, I just put the wire in the center hole, bend it down over the top - tighten the bend with pliers and then bend it over the end and cut to length.

#13

Dennis Rayon said:

Very nice Bruce, almost in all cases 99% of all people see the overall picture, they see a boxcar, couldn’t tell you 2 minutes later anything about

except the color, and MAYBE how many wheels it had, 4 or 8.

The other 1%, oh well i will keep quiet about them.

Good post

Dennis

I agree - and most would probably get the color wrong. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)

#14

Good post, and a great looking car, Bruce. (aka, “Box Car Bruce”!!)

As much as I greatly admire the GREAT modelling skills, and the desire for many to produce finely detailed rolling stock. I see many people who only want, and need cars that can stand up to the real world of operations, at a realistic price, to suit their, often meager budgets. DURABILITY is what is really needed…

So often, manufacturers have gone the route of ever-increasing the details on their models. They look great, and often can fit nicely on a shelf, or in a museum. It brings tears to my eyes to see myself and others, opening a box containing the latest piece of rolling stock, only to have parts and details falling off it, before it even gets on the track. This is even before the equipment has faced the reality of “Life in the real World” out-of-doors on the average outdoor LS model railroad. This goes too for the great modellers we have in this hobby, seeing the details on their models, being destroyed on the first run.

Fred Mills

#15

Fred, that’s why my P&CS boxcars are rebuilt Bachmann boxcars. They care cheap, when purchased from the “unwanted and left over” tables. Or, under the tables in boxes, being ignored. And the detail is rugged enough that they can be in a multi car pile up, and not suffer any damage.

And the P&CS stock cars too.

#16

Nice build.

I’ve built a few with everything glued, pinned or bolted on. Haven’t had the chance to “operate” yet. It would be fun to see how you guys do it.

#17

Bruce Chandler said:

… designed to hold up to the rigors of being transported between shed and railroad without losing a lot of pieces along the way.

Or you losing a lot of peace along the way.

#18

Nice clean build Bruce, that boxcar has everything on it that it needs, well except maybe reporting marks(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

#19

Rick Marty said:

Nice clean build Bruce, that boxcar has everything on it that it needs, well except maybe reporting marks(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

Paint should probably come first.(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif). I’m working on that.

#20

Thanks Bruce for the information. I see what you mean about the grab irons being for a specific railroad. What size brass rod do you use?.

Hey David your cars look good. It looks like you re-do the roofs.