Large Scale Central

AMS Cable Car

These little gems have been on the market for around two years and yet no one ever reports on them. My two examples arrived this morning, but SWMBO had other duties in mind so I was not able to run until this evening. First impression was nice with the exception of the exceedingly shallow footstep along the open section of the car. This no doubt is to accomodate the infamous R1 rule.

Set upon the rail and the cars proceeded at a steady pace until the first insulated frog and then no motion. I applied more power and edged them a little and they proceeded at a steady pace, with the lights flickering at every switch frog. I had quickly checked and had noted all wheel electrical pickup and decided to investigate the momentary loss of power pickup. First impression was that several carbon brush pickups had been ommitted in production. Further investigation showed that the brushes were seized inside their cases. One was on the motor block which required disassembly. On reassembly, care must be taken to insert the brass bearings on each axle into the recess in the top half of the motor block. The pickups on the trailing truck are accessible after two watchmaker size screws are removed and the lower cover taken off.

After rectification, the little gems behaved as I would have liked from the beginning. Fault-free snail’s pace running over frogs is now possible. As power is initially applied the car begins to move off. At around 7.5 volts the marker, headlight and tail lights illuminate at a realistic glow and the car moves at a ‘scale’ speed. As power is increased, the ‘constant brightness bulbs’ glow an unrealistic brightness matching the headlamp for intensity. For night time running, once greater than 7.5 volts is used, the car is like a Christmas tree. At 7.5 volts the lights are the right intensity and the car speed is acceptably smooth and slow. One thing missing which I do not believe is not fitted to the prototype is internal lighting. Internal lighting would tend to lessen the brilliance of the four marker lamp LEDs.

Final assessment is that they are well made, although the advertising blurb about being masterpieces is a little over the top. They look nice, but are definately very toylike. With the power pickup issues corrected, the cars behave brilliantly, travelling smoothly at a snail’s pace through my numerous Aristo wide-radius switches, without a any loss of power pickup. At a snail’s pace both cars travel at the same speed. As voltage increases, one car is notably quicker than the other car for a given voltage.

We got 2 new ones at the Botanic this year. I like them a lot, but we wore out their drives already.

I have one still in the box, I dont plan to run it much, I got it more as a display item. Drive issues are always on my mind like Tom says. I’ve not been impressed with Accucrafts electric models, my Casey Jr arrived with the siderods so tightly screwed on that when I tested it the wheels bound and the metal work ate straight thru the nylon axle gear in 3 seconds, grrrr…luckily both wheels had drive gears (only one is powered) so I was able to swap the axles front to rear but even so, its not a great runner, noisy and choppy, not impressive given its high initial MSRP, luckily I got mine of clearance.

Tim,

I hope you know these cars are 12 volts only!

-Brian

They seem to run a nice cable-car speed about 9 or 10v.

Brian,
thanks, Brian. Accucraft do state 12 Volt DC, however, in the Feb. 2007 Garden Railways review, Mark Horovicw (?) made reference to speed being an issue at much higher voltages (18 volts). At around 8 volts the cars run very smoothly, at a snail’s pace. No need to travel any faster. My shuttle circuit, using the latest LGB electronic shuttle unit, is only fed with 12 volts maximum and I usually turn it down to minimum voltage output.

    I have installed a crowd of seated LGB passengers in the open end section of each car,  along with a 'brakeman' and it certainly does enthuse some interest in the car.

Ready to earn some money.

(http://www.lscdata.com/users/tim_brien/_forumfiles/lsccc.JPG)

They definelty look best with passengers in.

Vic,
passengers really do lift the look of the cars, giving them a purpose. They actually are impressive, following each other a metre or two apart along the rails. Certainbly worth the expense. Hans Kahl, at Gold Coast Station, has them at $145.00 each. Uintah Mallett, on eBay, has them at $149.99 and Ridge Road at $186.99. All very reputable sellers/dealers, who give exemplary service.

I have the Maroon Market St version, but to be honest I wish they had made the blue Hyde St version.

What I REALLY want to find is the leather jacket the operators wear with “San Fransisco Municiple Railway” emblazed in scrolling letters on the back. Very cool!

I really like them. Perhaps with a Heartland Mac block…

While I may have sorted the power pickup issue with the sticking carbon brushes, another problem has arisen. The cast wheels seem to create dirt deposits. I never have a dirty wheel problem with anything, as the stainless track generally has a scouring effect. On these cars, the wheels seem to get dirty very quickly and then power pickup becomes an issue. One car seems worse than the other. When test leads are applied directly to the wheels then no problem with continuity. When the car is placed on the rails then power pickup seems to degrade, even after thorough cleaning of both track and wheel faces (tread and inside face of wheels). Possibly to do with limiting power to 12 volts maximum only.

I thought these were supposed to be models of “Cable Cars”. So, what’s with the motor in them…cable cars don’t have motors and run by being pulled by a cable…

Further to the saga. One car is excellent, while the other seems to make dirty wheels affecting power pickup. I initially tried Aristo-Craft CNC wheelsets in the trailing bogie, to improve power pickup, but the smaller diameter Aristo wheelsets caused a clearance issue (the brake hangers on the cast metal sideframes were contacting the Aristo rerailer/crossing track that I have. I then used the larger diameter Bachmann wheelsets with a little conductive oil. The B’mann wheels are 0.050" smaller diameter than the Accucraft wheels, so clearance is not so much an issue. Operation seems to have improved. The saga continues.

Fred,
I wished one of these cars had cable drive, as then I would not have to worry about power pickup problems.

Fred Mills said:
I thought these were supposed to be models of "Cable Cars". So, what's with the motor in them.....cable cars don't have motors and run by being pulled by a cable.....
Hey Fred....real steam locomotives don't run on batteries either............so what's with the batteries?

Final report. The Bachmann wheelsets in the trailing truck seems to have sorted out the power pickup issue. Car now runs well. The cast Accucraft wheels are s**t as regards getting dirty very quickly and losing continuity.

Sheesh all the trouble you’ve had, maybe I’ll just keep mine in the box till I can get a display case for it.

Vic,
one runs well, while the other had a few power pickup problems. Since I changed to the B’mann wheels, the trailing wheels are still shiny and power pickup is good on the trailing truck. For some reason the standard cast AMS wheels would get dirty very quickly. I run stainless track and never see dirty wheels (until I encountered these cast wheelsets).

Tim Brien said:
I run stainless track and never see dirty wheels (until I encountered these cast wheelsets).
That's intriguing, Tim. Any thoughts on why?

Dave,
it has me intrigued as well. I replaced the AMS cast wheels with Bachmann wheels (also cast) and yet the B’mann wheelsets remain bright and shiny. Possibly, the rough cast AMS wheel tread is causing microscopic arcing to the rail, resulting in carbon deposits forming, hindering power pickup.