Large Scale Central

Aluminum Track Options

Track and Trestles
#21

It is funny that now one mentions Micro Engineering track. I have been using there rail and tie strip for years without any adverse effects. while I use code 250, they also make code 332 alum as well. I think the price point is comparable. not sure what the current availability is as I have had sufficient stock on hand for a while, but he last time I ordered tie strip it was available without a problem. made in the USA.

http://microengineering.com/products_rail.htm

http://microengineering.com/products_gtfts.htm

Al P.

#22

Nicolas,

Try calling Bruce at Switch Crafters, http://www.switchcrafters.com/contact.html.

He’s closing shop due to medical issues with his hands and can’t manufacture switches any longer. I was able to order 96’ (48’ of assembled track) of 332 aluminum rail for $65.25 and $10.00 for a shipping carton. I buy Piko tie strips at my local hobby shop and use SS Aristo large radius switches. I run battery and R/C. Very happy with my setup!

His website is still up and running.

Adam

#23

Just a brief warning from my experience. Be careful if you mix code 250 rail and ties. All the rail is .25 inch tall, but the bottom of the rail varies from Sunset V to Llagas Cr (and maybe others). The difference is enough to make the rail either impossible to get on the ties, or so sloppy that you can’t keep rail on the ties.

#24

I’ve had really good success with code 250 and 215 Llagas track with my layout. Because I’m a cheap donkey, I handlayed my track and build my own turnouts. I use cedar fencing cut into scale 8x8 and cut to length. With a few bucks on a 1000 spikes, a rail bender, track gauge, and some rail I can crank out a 6’ piece of track in a couple of hours or less. Granted the first time I did it I was picky and spent 8 hours doing it (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif)Point being that if your budget doesn’t allow for much flexibility hand laying is an option (if you choose that route). You will have to spend time respiking and replacing ties but I found that cedar ties lasted anywhere from 4-6 years without having any major problems. This was a layout that was floating on ballast with decent drainage. For a raised layout like your planning, the cedar ties should have more drainage, and thus last longer. Now that said, handlaying takes time, and it’s not for everyone.

I mentioned code 215 because the common misnomer is that the standard “pizza cutter” wheels will not work on 215. I’ve never had a problem on my 215 or the 215 at Dave’s (TOC). I like 215 because it represents a smaller size rail, and I think of track as a model too (hence I enjoy the hand laying part).

As for the rail bender, buy or borrow one. It’s well worth the time to get smooth curves with a bender. I have the old style single rail bender and it works fine, but the new dual rail benders would work on preassembled track if you cut any tabs that hold the ties together.

As for track type; if you’ve already got it use it. Why spend the time and effort trying to sell and recoup the cost of track when you could use it? For example I have code 332 brass from years ago that I could sell (likely at a profit), or I could use it as staging tracks in the garage? Staging tracks it will be. Again if you have access to a dual or single rail bender you can reshape track to your hearts content. For example when I first got into the hobby I was given 2 full circles of LGB 332 brass in 4’ diameter. I pulled the ties, and straightened out the rails, reassembled and voila now I have straight pieces. I straightened these out by hand, and quickly learned the value of a rail bender…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-yell.gif)

#25

Al Pomeroy said:

It is funny that now one mentions Micro Engineering track. I have been using there rail and tie strip for years without any adverse effects. while I use code 250, they also make code 332 alum as well. I think the price point is comparable. not sure what the current availability is as I have had sufficient stock on hand for a while, but he last time I ordered tie strip it was available without a problem. made in the USA.

http://microengineering.com/products_rail.htm

http://microengineering.com/products_gtfts.htm

Al P.

Not sure I have seen any place currently selling this.

#26

Dick Friedman said:

Just a brief warning from my experience. Be careful if you mix code 250 rail and ties. All the rail is .25 inch tall, but the bottom of the rail varies from Sunset V to Llagas Cr (and maybe others). The difference is enough to make the rail either impossible to get on the ties, or so sloppy that you can’t keep rail on the ties.

The code 250 I have from sunset also came with all the rail clamps that I need to attach it to code 332. It came with a lot of rail clamps (20 bucks at a yard sale). The thing I noticed is, the rail clamps work great on LGB (though I have to rip the joiners off) but do not work as well on the Aristocraft or the USA Trains rails. I guess those rails are a bit bigger. I tighten the rail clamps but the tracks can still slide out. I guess that explains why I like them more as they are probably a bit stiffer.

#27

Thank you all for the info. Lots of useful information here. I played around tonight with the track I have. LGB, Aristo, USA Trains and the Sunset Valley pieces. I found the Sunset Valley pieces the most challenging to work with. I have two switches from them but alas the rail power doesn’t go through and I don’t currently have any wires. Over all its ok, but its definitely easier to bend and far more flexible then the code 332 track.

My initial impressions, with trying to get the Sunset rails to attach to the switch or to just belly bend the rails to form a curve was that I still think sectional track is what I want to go with. I found the fact when flexing the track into the curve, one of the rails shortens (which makes sense). I would then end up with staggered joints, which is good. For the temporary setups I am doing right now its not ideal. For a more permanent solution I can see these being less of issue but still not as desired as just laying the sectional track. Since my rail bed will all be based on that anyways I am not getting too much advantage from flex track being bendable to any curve.

Short term I need to

  • See Dave’s setup again so I can see how the track was layed etc…
  • Try out a radio controled train
  • Decide on a wireless system. It will likely be Airwire because I like the drop in decoders/instructions they provide to easily install. I also like the fact that, if for whatever bizzarre reason I wanted to convert it back I can put the USA Trains board back.
  • Once I have converted an engine, then I will move forward.

It sounds like I can’t really go too wrong with whatever choice I pick. I mostly just need to be careful about the look, because if that is important, mixing rail code and brass/aluminum could detract the look of my layout.

#28

Nicolas,

You REALLY need to see Paul Burch’s layout in Gig Harbor to see how trackwork SHOULD be done :). You can see for yourself how Paul has attached the aluminum flex rail to the his SVRR turnouts. The trackwork of Paul’s is very well done and is the bench mark that others strive to accomplish. Also Paul uses Airwire and has been a beta tester for CVP products for years.

#29

The real railroads mix weights (codes) of rail. I have seen switches in one weight, while the rest of the track is another weight. Also sidings tend to be a lighter weight rail then the mainline. So mixing different codes of rail can be prototypical.

#30

Good morning all,

I use Code 215 Llagas Creek, flextrack, six-foot sections. The RR is indoor/two track. Looks beautiful and runs great.

Ed

#31

Yes, yes it does.

#32

Nicolas Teeuwen said:

Andy Clarke said:

Can only tell you what I have done with my railroad… All my track ““floats”” in ballast, like the real railroads…

The Bluestone Southern is a diesel operating railroad with track mostly on the ground, where it can be stepped on either intentionally or by accident…

I started using Brass code 332 track, with american style ties… All my outside track is brass, with the exception of a couple of Stainless steel switches…

I started with Aristo track, and went with AML (american mainline) track, when I couldn’t get Aristo’s anymore…

I use aluminum code 332 track inside, for the inside layout and storage tracks, where it can’t be stepped on… The aluminum track is a mix of Aristo and AML…

What do you think of the AML vs the Aristo? I have some Aristo and some USA Trains (very comparable) but no clue what AML stuff is like in comparison.

AML track is just as good as the rest of them… I get it in 6 ft lengths and use a rail bender to make the curves to fit the layout… As the years have gone by, I have switched from rail joiners to Split-Jaw railclamps… All my switches were/are installed with Railclamps, to make them easily removed for maintenance or replacement… I keep a few switches on hand and ready for replacement during Ops sessions… Only takes a few minutes to replace… All my track is non-powered, as I run battery powered locos…

#33

Nicolas Teeuwen said:

I found the fact when flexing the track into the curve, one of the rails shortens (which makes sense). I would then end up with staggered joints, which is good.

Nicolas, staggered joints are a good thing, no doubt, just look at the prototype. that said, unless you really stagger them ( as they do), what you will end up with is a point at which the track joiners might fail ( ask me how I know this).

When you start laying track, either really commit to staggering you joints by at least a foot or more, or cut the rail ends even. I tried staggering the ends, especially on curves, but found that it really wasn’t worth the bother. Your mileage may vary.

#34

Steve Featherkile said:

Nicolas Teeuwen said:

I found the fact when flexing the track into the curve, one of the rails shortens (which makes sense). I would then end up with staggered joints, which is good.

Nicolas, staggered joints are a good thing, no doubt, just look at the prototype. that said, unless you really stagger them ( as they do), what you will end up with is a point at which the track joiners might fail ( ask me how I know this).

When you start laying track, either really commit to staggering you joints by at least a foot or more, or cut the rail ends even. I tried staggering the ends, especially on curves, but found that it really wasn’t worth the bother. Your mileage may vary.

Yup, I agree with Steve on this. Like he said you really have to have a commitment to staggering them by at least a foot for it to be worth the effort. Then you will find it’s a royal pain any time you need to pull something apart for slight adjustment. I started by staggering my aluminum code 250 but soon switched to just having the joints across from each other. As Andy said the rail clamps make it easy to loosen something up and slip it out. A I use rail joiners where the track is straight and I want some expansion capability. I didn’t catch weather you are hand laying or purchasing switches. If you are using purchased switches you are going to have some non staggered joints any way.

Edit to say: I am using AML code 250 with the narrow gauge ties and love it. The rail is a bit wider/heavier than most and the tie strips are also heavier with a thicker wall. The extra weight and robustness comes in handy when you’re dealing with the lightest weight rail choice, Aluminum. I full float with no tie or hold downs.

#35

I am with Steve and Randy on this one. When I built my railroad, I ended up with staggered joints simply because my railroad is mostly curves. I havent had clamp failures because of this, or not any that I can attribute to the staggered joints, but when it comes to replacing broken ties, or changing anything, its a pain to deal with joints that are any distance apart.

#36

Nicolas, just to accustom you to our threaddrifts…

for curves in general, try, where-ever possible, to begin the curve with a section of a wider curve, to ease your trains in and out of curves.

(four wheel)truck mounted and body mounted couplers like to derail where (sharp) curves and straights meet.

(and it looks better too)

#37

Gary Armitstead said:

Nicolas,

You REALLY need to see Paul Burch’s layout in Gig Harbor to see how trackwork SHOULD be done :). You can see for yourself how Paul has attached the aluminum flex rail to the his SVRR turnouts. The trackwork of Paul’s is very well done and is the bench mark that others strive to accomplish. Also Paul uses Airwire and has been a beta tester for CVP products for years.

Looks like I need to make a trip out to Gig Harbor then in the near future.

#38

Randy Lehrian Jr. said:

Steve Featherkile said:

Nicolas Teeuwen said:

I found the fact when flexing the track into the curve, one of the rails shortens (which makes sense). I would then end up with staggered joints, which is good.

Nicolas, staggered joints are a good thing, no doubt, just look at the prototype. that said, unless you really stagger them ( as they do), what you will end up with is a point at which the track joiners might fail ( ask me how I know this).

When you start laying track, either really commit to staggering you joints by at least a foot or more, or cut the rail ends even. I tried staggering the ends, especially on curves, but found that it really wasn’t worth the bother. Your mileage may vary.

Yup, I agree with Steve on this. Like he said you really have to have a commitment to staggering them by at least a foot for it to be worth the effort. Then you will find it’s a royal pain any time you need to pull something apart for slight adjustment. I started by staggering my aluminum code 250 but soon switched to just having the joints across from each other. As Andy said the rail clamps make it easy to loosen something up and slip it out. A I use rail joiners where the track is straight and I want some expansion capability. I didn’t catch weather you are hand laying or purchasing switches. If you are using purchased switches you are going to have some non staggered joints any way.

Edit to say: I am using AML code 250 with the narrow gauge ties and love it. The rail is a bit wider/heavier than most and the tie strips are also heavier with a thicker wall. The extra weight and robustness comes in handy when you’re dealing with the lightest weight rail choice, Aluminum. I full float with no tie or hold downs.

Yeah I am not keen on staggering but still not sold on bending my own rail either. I like the easy of installation and easy of changing preformed curves. I suppose with straight sections it doesn’t matter as much since they can be bent either way.

Since I am plannign to do this in phases, I may want to add a passing lane on the long straight stretch, or maybe make it cross over, and being able to pull out sections of track easily and swap them out sounds great to me.

That said, I tried to order apparently the last of the Aristo Craft 14’ diameter track from CharlesRO to find out they only had one piece left. So either I have to make that radius 10 foot, or bend that section myself. I liked the idea of vastly different radii there since there are 2 curves going around the corner.

#39

Korm Kormsen said:

Nicolas, just to accustom you to our threaddrifts…

for curves in general, try, where-ever possible, to begin the curve with a section of a wider curve, to ease your trains in and out of curves.

(four wheel)truck mounted and body mounted couplers like to derail where (sharp) curves and straights meet.

(and it looks better too)

I had experimented with this. My first purchase had LGB R5 going to R3 but I didn’t really like the look of it. I instead of just eliminated anything smaller then 10 foot radius track. At the present time the entire layout is likely to be 10 foot diameter (5 foot radius). Because I am doing preformed curves (if not for the track, then the rail bed will be) I have limited options in terms of going from one radius to another, because a lot of the higher radius preformed curves uses different amount of angles.

I have been driving my trains currently on the 10 foot diameter track and it seems to run great.

#40

10 foot diameter is a good choice. Just about everything will run on 10 foot curves.

Korm is talking about quick and dirty easements, starting a curve with a larger diameter curve. The 1:1 railroads do that, but with a gradually increasing diameter curve leading into a curve. While it looks nice, and can help with smoother running, many folks have not done their curves that way, and their trains run just fine. I think its a good idea, but its not necessary.