Large Scale Central

Aluminum Track Options

Track and Trestles
#1

I am considering aluminum track as for my layout (as well as R/C battery). I am debating over several options I have at the moment to do my track.

  1. Do brass anyways. i like the look/durability of code 332 and the USA Trains rails (I have a bit of Aristocraft as well). I do not like LGB so will not be buying much if any of theirs.

  2. Mix and match brass with Aluminum at code 332. The only good sources of aluminum track I have found for code 332 is http://www.americanmainline.com/modelc/AT-TRACK.htm. Anyone have any experience with this track?

  3. Go with code 250 and get all my track from http://www.llagastrack.com/. I could still mix and match a bit of what I have now in parts of my layout.

Given I am running only USA Trains cars/engines I kind of like the look on the USA Trains track/code 332/Euro style ties.

Currently I have some code 250 brass track with Euro ties that i picked up second hand. It came with US ties but they were mostly broken so i replaced them.

I have 1/4 circle of 9 foot diameter Aristocraft track, 1/4 circle of 10 foot diameter USA trains track, a collection of LGB straight sections and a few pieces of R5 LGB track.

Once I have committed to battery power, my plan is to order some of the AML aluminum to get an idea of how it it compares to the USA Trains track.

#2

Nicolas Teeuwen said:

I am considering aluminum track as for my layout (as well as R/C battery). I am debating over several options I have at the moment to do my track.

  1. Do brass anyways. i like the look/durability of code 332 and the USA Trains rails (I have a bit of Aristocraft as well). I do not like LGB so will not be buying much if any of theirs.

  2. Mix and match brass with Aluminum at code 332. The only good sources of aluminum track I have found for code 332 is http://www.americanmainline.com/modelc/AT-TRACK.htm. Anyone have any experience with this track?

  3. Go with code 250 and get all my track from http://www.llagastrack.com/. I could still mix and match a bit of what I have now in parts of my layout.

Given I am running only USA Trains cars/engines I kind of like the look on the USA Trains track/code 332/Euro style ties.

Currently I have some code 250 brass track with Euro ties that i picked up second hand. It came with US ties but they were mostly broken so i replaced them.

I have 1/4 circle of 9 foot diameter Aristocraft track, 1/4 circle of 10 foot diameter USA trains track, a collection of LGB straight sections and a few pieces of R5 LGB track.

Once I have committed to battery power, my plan is to order some of the AML aluminum to get an idea of how it it compares to the USA Trains track.

Nicolas,

First let me welcome you to this great hobby.

Because you live in Seattle and I believe Paul Burch invited you over to his beautiful layout in Gig Harbor (BTW, Paul and I have known each other for sixty rears), I would visit Paul, take a look at his trackwork before you make a decision on size (code #) and the material used in the rail. He uses code 250 aluminum rail and ties from Sunset Valley RR. Pete Comley is the owner and SVRR is very near you. You could actually drive there to pickup your track and not worry about shipping costs. He lives in Bonny Lake, Washington. I bought all my “stuff” from him and I run all battery and Airwire. Just a happy customer :).

#3

will you build high, or on the earth?

if somebody or something could step upon the track, i would prefer brass or steel.

#4

deleted

#5

Can only tell you what I have done with my railroad… All my track ““floats”” in ballast, like the real railroads…

The Bluestone Southern is a diesel operating railroad with track mostly on the ground, where it can be stepped on either intentionally or by accident…

I started using Brass code 332 track, with american style ties… All my outside track is brass, with the exception of a couple of Stainless steel switches…

I started with Aristo track, and went with AML (american mainline) track, when I couldn’t get Aristo’s anymore…

I use aluminum code 332 track inside, for the inside layout and storage tracks, where it can’t be stepped on… The aluminum track is a mix of Aristo and AML…

#6

Might also want to take a look at Sunset Valley 250 track.

#7

I have brass, stainless and aluminum, code 332, mixed without thought as to galvanic action. Some is elevated, some on the ground, floating in ballast. Climate is that of Eastern Washington, that can get to 105F in the summer, and as low as -20F in the winter. Most of the track has been installed for ten years or more, some as long as 15 years. So far, no problem with galvanic action.

So far, my biggest problem has been track pulling out of Hillman clamps because of temperature change. Each spring, after tending to the ballast, I have to run a train slowly over the layout to find those occult disarticulated joints that escaped my eyes during ballast tending.

I did have an elk go bounding through the layout a few years back, stepping full on a stainless 5 ft section. Bent the sh*t out of it. I have not been able to get it straightened out since. I’ll probably have to use it as shorts.

I’d say that your choice of AML aluminum code 332 is a good one, especially for floating in ballast. If you are going to run 1:29 US stuff, though, I wonder why you choose to use European ties. But, it is your railroad, and whatever looks good to you is fine with me. Once you have it installed and ballasted, unless you point it out, I won’t notice it. I’ll be looking at the trains.

Edit: I made an assumption that I should not have made. You did not say how you were going to support your track, so I just assumed that you were going to float it in ballast. Have you got that far, yet? If I was going to do it over again, I would support it all, either with 2X wood planks or by the ladder method, rather than float any of it, but that’s just me. Andy has made a success of floating his track, as have others. Study the various methods well, and choose wisely. My problem with floating is unique to me, that Andy doesn’t seem to suffer.

#8

Gary Armitstead said:

Nicolas Teeuwen said:

I am considering aluminum track as for my layout (as well as R/C battery). I am debating over several options I have at the moment to do my track.

  1. Do brass anyways. i like the look/durability of code 332 and the USA Trains rails (I have a bit of Aristocraft as well). I do not like LGB so will not be buying much if any of theirs.

  2. Mix and match brass with Aluminum at code 332. The only good sources of aluminum track I have found for code 332 is http://www.americanmainline.com/modelc/AT-TRACK.htm. Anyone have any experience with this track?

  3. Go with code 250 and get all my track from http://www.llagastrack.com/. I could still mix and match a bit of what I have now in parts of my layout.

Given I am running only USA Trains cars/engines I kind of like the look on the USA Trains track/code 332/Euro style ties.

Currently I have some code 250 brass track with Euro ties that i picked up second hand. It came with US ties but they were mostly broken so i replaced them.

I have 1/4 circle of 9 foot diameter Aristocraft track, 1/4 circle of 10 foot diameter USA trains track, a collection of LGB straight sections and a few pieces of R5 LGB track.

Once I have committed to battery power, my plan is to order some of the AML aluminum to get an idea of how it it compares to the USA Trains track.

Nicolas,

First let me welcome you to this great hobby.

Because you live in Seattle and I believe Paul Burch invited you over to his beautiful layout in Gig Harbor (BTW, Paul and I have known each other for sixty rears), I would visit Paul, take a look at his trackwork before you make a decision on size (code #) and the material used in the rail. He uses code 250 aluminum rail and ties from Sunset Valley RR. Pete Comley is the owner and SVRR is very near you. You could actually drive there to pickup your track and not worry about shipping costs. He lives in Bonny Lake, Washington. I bought all my “stuff” from him and I run all battery and Airwire. Just a happy customer :).

Thanks Gary. I have been to Dave’s house and saw the code 250 rail he had there from llagas. I plan to visit again on the third Friday to see as he did mix with LGB going into his shed.

I prefer working with pre-formed curves. I am not too keen on railbending. I know its supposed to be easy but I still would prefer not to have to buy a rail bender. I am leaning towards the mix and match with brass and aluminum.

I was hoping someone who had bougth some AML (brass or aluminum) could comment on the quality of this product.

I will hopefully sometime in the near future be able to contact Paul and make it out to seeing his layout.

#9

Just FYI, you have seen Dave Goodson’s layout and I believe he told me the majority of it is Llagas code 250 aluminum with some in the lower yard being code 215. You saw how it works and his application. I know others on here have used with great success code 250. Durability would be the only reason I can see for going 332 over 250 and the type of metal for durability and conductivity if you are doing track power.

I can tell you from a customer service standpoint you will not be disappointed with Llagas.

I haven’t started bending my Aluminum yet (on purpose) but I can tell you I don’t think I will need a bender, the belly method (bending it by hand) should work for the bulk of it. It is very flexible.

#10

Steve Featherkile said:

I have brass, stainless and aluminum, code 332, mixed without thought as to galvanic action. Some is elevated, some on the ground, floating in ballast. Climate is that of Eastern Washington, that can get to 105F in the summer, and as low as -20F in the winter. Most of the track has been installed for ten years or more, some as long as 15 years. So far, no problem with galvanic action.

So far, my biggest problem has been track pulling out of Hillman clamps because of temperature change. Each spring, after tending to the ballast, I have to run a train slowly over the layout to find those occult disarticulated joints that escaped my eyes during ballast tending.

I did have an elk go bounding through the layout a few years back, stepping full on a stainless 5 ft section. Bent the sh*t out of it. I have not been able to get it straightened out since. I’ll probably have to use it as shorts.

I’d say that your choice of AML aluminum code 332 is a good one, especially for floating in ballast. If you are going to run 1:29 US stuff, though, I wonder why you choose to use European ties. But, it is your railroad, and whatever looks good to you is fine with me. Once you have it installed and ballasted, unless you point it out, I won’t notice it. I’ll be looking at the trains.

Edit: I made an assumption that I should not have made. You did not say how you were going to support your track, so I just assumed that you were going to float it in ballast. Have you got that far, yet? If I was going to do it over again, I would support it all, either with 2X wood planks or by the ladder method, rather than float any of it, but that’s just me. Andy has made a success of floating his track, as have others. Study the various methods well, and choose wisely. My problem with floating is unique to me, that Andy doesn’t seem to suffer.

I plan to use RailClamps railbed products. PVC posts with PVC railbed. The track will likely not be floating. It will be 2 feet above the ground at the lowest point sot he only things to get up on the track would be cats, squirrels and birds.

I initially chose the euro ties because of availability. In terms of availability of stuff to buy going from most available to least available

  • Code 332 Euro style ties brass track is the most available. LGB, USA Trains, Aristrocraft (though not as much) American Mainline, Train Li all provide options. I didn’t even include Piko but I have heard/read it can also be compatible.
    All of this assumes pre-formed curves. Its very difficult to find true flex track here. You can get 5 to 6 foot straight sections that I believe you can turn into flex track. There are plenty of online places to purchase from. Of this track I like the Aristocraft and USA trains track. I do not like LGB much at all. I don’t like their joiners.

  • Code 250 from either Sunset Valley or LLagas. Both seem to have a lot of options for both rail and switches/crossings etc. Neither do preformed curves though. In this case you can choose your materials.

  • Code 332 track in either stainless steel, or aluminum or nickle silver. Generally I find this stuff harder to locate. American Mainline makes aluminum and then there is really currently only one online venue that carries it. Stainless comes mostly from PolkNextGeneration.

  • Code 332 track that is US ties style and not Euro.

I have completely wrote off stainless. Its too pricey. Nickle Silver, from what I read is not really worth the extra cost either. That leaves me with Aluminum or Brass and Code 332 or code 250.

My current (and future) trains will all be USA trains (Canada painted ) cars and engines. I have both the code 250 and code 332 rails to run them on and the different ties to play with. While the US ties looked a bit better, I am fine with the Euro spacing.

I am trying to pick a compromise on easy of installation, price, and availability and look.

#11

Devon Sinsley said:

Just FYI, you have seen Dave Goodson’s layout and I believe he told me the majority of it is Llagas code 250 aluminum with some in the lower yard being code 215. You saw how it works and his application. I know others on here have used with great success code 250. Durability would be the only reason I can see for going 332 over 250 and the type of metal for durability and conductivity if you are doing track power.

I can tell you from a customer service standpoint you will not be disappointed with Llagas.

I haven’t started bending my Aluminum yet (on purpose) but I can tell you I don’t think I will need a bender, the belly method (bending it by hand) should work for the bulk of it. It is very flexible.

Interesting. Given that its going on pre-formed curved railbed from RailClamps, I will still want it to match the 10 foot/14 foot radius that I will be laying down for railbed. I like their product with the easy of installation and long term durability. I also like the easy of modifications. If I want to say, add a switch or another line, I can swap out small pieces of both track and rail bed to swap it in.

The Llagas site is quite polished and their product/availability offering is good. Price point is also good but its still only one vendor to choose from.

#12

Andy Clarke said:

Can only tell you what I have done with my railroad… All my track ““floats”” in ballast, like the real railroads…

The Bluestone Southern is a diesel operating railroad with track mostly on the ground, where it can be stepped on either intentionally or by accident…

I started using Brass code 332 track, with american style ties… All my outside track is brass, with the exception of a couple of Stainless steel switches…

I started with Aristo track, and went with AML (american mainline) track, when I couldn’t get Aristo’s anymore…

I use aluminum code 332 track inside, for the inside layout and storage tracks, where it can’t be stepped on… The aluminum track is a mix of Aristo and AML…

What do you think of the AML vs the Aristo? I have some Aristo and some USA Trains (very comparable) but no clue what AML stuff is like in comparison.

#13

Nicolas Teeuwen said:

What do you think of the AML vs the Aristo? I have some Aristo and some USA Trains (very comparable) but no clue what AML stuff is like in comparison.

I used Aristo track exclusively on my layout, primarily because it was available locally.

I have helped two friends install their layouts using AMS code 332 aluminum, and I think it is far superior to Aristo’s Aluminum. Comparing it to brass or stainless is like apples and oranges.

I’ve had trouble with Aristo’s aluminum rail developing a twist, and I’m not the only one, either. If I buy more track, It will be AML 332 aluminum.

#14

Steve Featherkile said:

Nicolas Teeuwen said:

What do you think of the AML vs the Aristo? I have some Aristo and some USA Trains (very comparable) but no clue what AML stuff is like in comparison.

I used Aristo track exclusively on my layout, primarily because it was available locally.

I have helped two friends install their layouts using AMS code 332 aluminum, and I think it is far superior to Aristo’s Aluminum. Comparing it to brass or stainless is like apples and oranges.

I’ve had trouble with Aristo’s aluminum rail developing a twist, and I’m not the only one, either. If I buy more track, It will be AML 332 aluminum.

Ah. Can you be more specific about what makes it better? I like the Aristo/USA trains track because the ties seem just…a bit bit stronger, the rails flex a little less. I also like the rail joiners because they support screw on types. The LGB joiners are a pain, especially if you need to remove them/add them back. I know the tiny screws can be a pain to install, but still seems better (even if not using track power).

What sort of joiners does AML use? how are the spacings for the ties? The other thing I noticed with LGB is that they have additional joiners in their track that hold the ties but they put an extra gap. This is especially noticeable on the R5 curves I have as well as the 47" straight pieces.

#15

Nicolas,

My only commentary on AML track is that the tie strips NEED to be maintained. There are several methods that have been discussed here on the forum…painting, Armorall to mention two I remember. My club put down about 100 feet of straights on our permanent layout about 8 years ago and the tie strips are crumbling to nothing. We are in the process of replacing all of them. We have had some failure of Aristo Craft tie strips place down at the same time frame, but considerably less. Now that is not to say that AML has not corrected that issue since then, but it is OUR experience.

And you may also want to check out SwitchCrafters. www.switchcrafters.com Pay little attention to the big red banner on the home page. Bruce is not manufacturing switches any longer, but he is selling aluminum rail, spikes and such.

Bob C.

#16

Nicolas Teeuwen said:

Interesting. Given that its going on pre-formed curved railbed from RailClamps, I will still want it to match the 10 foot/14 foot radius that I will be laying down for railbed. I like their product with the easy of installation and long term durability. I also like the easy of modifications. If I want to say, add a switch or another line, I can swap out small pieces of both track and rail bed to swap it in.

The Llagas site is quite polished and their product/availability offering is good. Price point is also good but its still only one vendor to choose from.

I plan on laying mine on pre-made ladder. I am only speculating but messing around a little with it I think it will shape up nicely. I will mess with a few sections that I know will be on an 8’ diameter and see what I can or can not make it do. I need to know this myself and whether or not I need to borrow a bender. That’s another thing to consider is borrowing a bender.

As for obtaining Llagas products go straight to the source. Brian is a great guy, excellent communication, easy to work with and Daniel his switch builder will work with you personally to build exactly what you need.

I am not trying to sway you on any of these choices. I can’t because I am as inexperienced as you are for one and two we each have to make the choices that make sense to us. I just offer my own limited experience.

#17

Bob “IA3R#7” Cope said:

Nicolas,

My only commentary on AML track is that the tie strips NEED to be maintained. There are several methods that have been discussed here on the forum…painting, Armorall to mention two I remember. My club put down about 100 feet of straights on our permanent layout about 8 years ago and the tie strips are crumbling to nothing. We are in the process of replacing all of them. We have had some failure of Aristo Craft tie strips place down at the same time frame, but considerably less. Now that is not to say that AML has not corrected that issue since then, but it is OUR experience.

And you may also want to check out SwitchCrafters. www.switchcrafters.com Pay little attention to the big red banner on the home page. Bruce is not manufacturing switches any longer, but he is selling aluminum rail, spikes and such.

Bob C.

Huh. That is good to know. So the tie trips didn’t hold up to time outdoors it seems.

#18

Nicolas Teeuwen said:

Steve Featherkile said:

Nicolas Teeuwen said:

What do you think of the AML vs the Aristo? I have some Aristo and some USA Trains (very comparable) but no clue what AML stuff is like in comparison.

I used Aristo track exclusively on my layout, primarily because it was available locally.

I have helped two friends install their layouts using AMS code 332 aluminum, and I think it is far superior to Aristo’s Aluminum. Comparing it to brass or stainless is like apples and oranges.

I’ve had trouble with Aristo’s aluminum rail developing a twist, and I’m not the only one, either. If I buy more track, It will be AML 332 aluminum.

Ah. Can you be more specific about what makes it better? I like the Aristo/USA trains track because the ties seem just…a bit bit stronger, the rails flex a little less. I also like the rail joiners because they support screw on types. The LGB joiners are a pain, especially if you need to remove them/add them back. I know the tiny screws can be a pain to install, but still seems better (even if not using track power).

What sort of joiners does AML use? how are the spacings for the ties? The other thing I noticed with LGB is that they have additional joiners in their track that hold the ties but they put an extra gap. This is especially noticeable on the R5 curves I have as well as the 47" straight pieces.

The AML aluminum rail is more substantial that the Aristo aluminum rail. Even though they are both 332.1000 inch vertically, the web on the AML is demonstrably thicker, as is the base.

The Aristo slide-on joiners were discarded by the company in favor of a flat plate with one side bent to accomadate the web, with the other side having two screws that clamp the two ends of the rails to the plate. Far superiour to the slide on joiners, and if Aristo had survived even a year longer, that would likely have replaced the slide ons in their other two lines of track. Al Kramer ( anakramer on ebay has similar ones for sale on ebay. ) If you still want to use the slide-on joiners, AML makes the best as far as I know. Just realize that once joined, you shouldn’t un-join them, no matter what slide-on you use.

For a solid mechanical connection, rail-end to rail-end, I prefer Hillman’s. Others swear by Split-Jaw, I tend to swear at them. Kramer (mentioned above) makes a very good one, too.

The extra joiners that you mentioned in the LGB track are put there for decoration, to represent the rail joiners every 39 feet in the 1:1 rails of yesteryear. They have no other function. The screws that attach the plastic ties to the metal rail are what hold the ties in position.

Hope this helps. Always happy to answer questions.

#19

Nicolas Teeuwen said:

Huh. That is good to know. So the tie trips didn’t hold up to time outdoors it seems.

Some of my tie strips have been outdoors for 15 years with no problems.

There have been some batch problems with the UV inhibitor included in the mix of plastic, but that is mostly a distant memory. Still, it doesn’t hurt to give your tie strips a shot of cheap spray paint (the cheaper the better, its just a barrier) or some armor all (use the Turtle Wax copy from the Auto Parts store), its good insurance.

#20

A few things

Bachmann also makes brass track.

Its very difficult to find true flex track here. You can get 5 to 6 foot straight sections that I believe you can turn into flex track.

Many of us bought long straight track and bent our own curves, in just about any material available.

Belly bending, or otherwise bending rail without a rail-bender, can lead to kinks and twists.

If you are going battery power, the aluminum track is the better option, from a price standpoint. If you are going track power, then brass, nickle silver or stainless is (usually) better. Although some people do have success running track power on aluminum rails.

For connecting rails together, I would suggest rail-clamps. The slide on joiners with screw do work, and I have several still in service. But I had many get loose, or out and out split, with freeze thaw cycles.