Hi everyone.
Has anyone here added sound to their LGB stainz that came without a sound system? My engine #20211 doesn’t have a speaker. In fact it doesn’t even have a smoke unit.
Does anyone have any recommendations on how to install sound into it or which sound card to use?
~Caleb
Will be a tight fit, but what will work is a sound decoder with the speaker mounted under the roof. Here’s a how to http://atw.huebsch.at/modell/g-spur/LGB_Stainz.htm
The decoder will work on DC and DCC, but needs to be set up.
Caleb,
I am slowly converting this loco (same as your model) to DCC with sound. Like your loco, mine does not have the moulded speaker recess in the cab roof. I modified the inner cab roof (the outer roof is removable) and installed a Massoth 57mm 2 watt speaker (barely noticable in side view, unlike the ugly stock protusion into the cab). The speaker wires are lead forward to the boiler moulding. I intend fitting a Massoth ‘LS’ decoder eventually (I am in no rush).
Why suggest a solution with 2 separate decoders? You can get a single Zimo decoder for less.
Also, the CT Eletronik has lousy support here in the US… I know, I have one… can’t get the programmer to work right, runs on dos… ugh.
Greg
Greg,
The main item is where to put the hardware, which hardware gets installed is a matter of choice. A newer installation is clearly linked in the original installation text, but the ZIMO MX690 (new in 2006!) of that installation has been superseded long ago. As I said it’s more a matter of where to pack the hardware than which hardware it is. 
OK, gotcha… that was not an MX690 in the original installation, I guess you may be referring to the newer installation. In any case, just wanted to say a 2 board installation is antiquated in these days.
The 690, now the 695 is a close fit, but it does fit.
Greg
Well after taking apart the loco and opening up the boiler I found that there’s no board at all. There’s only three wires from the motor and they go to the forward and rear lamps plus the cab light. I am curious as to what these two little prongs are on the motor plug. Is this where I can plug the smoke unit into?
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7220/7289616210_4ebfdf2a56_z.jpg)
Only three wires? Hmmmmm … how old is this engine? Can you follow the different wires from the pick-up shoes and the motor?
It was made in 1998, thank goodness the sticker is still holding on. Also the number on the motor is 20211. The little plug there with the small circuit unplugs and allows me to open the top of the motor block. This is all just basic wiring apparently and the wires for the lights plug directly into the motor.
The 2 posts are for a 18 volt smoke unit for analog operation.
In DCC, you are best off with a 24 volt smoke unit in the stainz (5 volt units need power conversion and that means heat).
Of course you could tie the smoke unit to track power with the 24 volt smoke unit and use the MX645 by Zimo and this fits between the weight and the firebox.
Calaeb,
the LGB #20211 was the 1998 ‘30th’ anniversary loco from the ‘30th’ starter set. This loco has very basic wiring as you have found (not even directional lighting). If you look closer, there may be three wires, but it is a four pin drive block, dcc ready. Two wires on one side of the plastic connector block are ganged piggyback style together, giving the impression of only three wires.
LOL so it’s a 30th anniversary ‘stainz’ and they couldn’t even put sound in it? That’s just silly. Does anyone here us MyLocoSound? How well does it sound?
Caleb,
the Stainz was in the 30th anniversary starter set. At the time, sound in a Stainz was not even a twinkle in Wolfgang’s eye (was he still in charge in 1998?). Stainz sound did not start until a few years later (around 2001) and believe me you were better off without it. Decent (? - well better than nothing) sound did not get put in until around 2004/2005 and you did not have to race your engine to get chuff sound, it was proportional to voltage input unlike the first release sound models.
Huh, why did I think they had sound during the early 90’s? I know what you mean though about racing the loco to get the chuff. My aristo rogers has to be brought to full speed to get decent sound.
Well I added mylocosound to my Stainz and it sounds great!.. The only problem though is in some places on my layout the sound immediately dulls down to almost a hiss then the volume will pick back up when it hits another spot on the layout. I’ve tried tightening the rail joints in those spots but it’s random and the problem just migrates to a different spot. Any thoughts?
Even though you have tightened the the rail joints, it could still be voltage drop.
1. Does the locomotive slow down in those spots?
2. What type of rail joiner do you use?
3. How often do you run power feeders to the track from the buss?
4. Is the track clean in those spots? B1RD droppings, tree sap and that sort of thing can cause havoc.
5. Did you use a conductive grease when you put the track together?
Those are the most obvious questions that come to mind. I’m sure that there are others.
The train does slow down in those spots, yes. I use the Aristocraft joiners with the supplied screws. I don’t have any feeder wires on my layout or any conductive grease. I didn’t install any because I figured my layout was small enough. I guess I have a problem huh? haha
I think that the Aristo joiners might be your problem. Try dropping feeder wires every three track connections. That is probably the least expensive way to go.
Get some of the wire that Malibu uses for their lights. It is about 12 gauge, stranded which is plenty for an outdoor railroad. You will find it at the Orange Big Box Store. You can use 16 - 18 gauge stranded for the feeder wires, if they are less than, say, 12 inches long.
Not to worry. You should have seen some of the mistakes I made when I started. And some of the mistakes I made today.
I do happen to have some wire here on rolls which is 18 gauge solid copper not stranded, should that do? Also where do the wires connect to? Just track section to track section or from a central wire beside the track?
There are many folks who might disagree with this, but 12 gauge stranded is said to be the best way to go. The stuff made by Malibu for their ourdoor lighting. 70 feet of their 12 gauge copper stranded double wire can be buried wire goes for $70 dollars on fleabay. That is a lot more than I paid for it 10 years ago, but then copper has more than doubled in those ten years, too.
I’ve been told why stranded is better than solid wire for our application, but that knowledge has dribbled out of my flea bitten former military mind. It made sense at the time, though.
Come to think of it, it might be less expensive to use the Hillmans or Split Jaw to achieve a good mechanical and electrical bond. It depends on how many track joints that you have. If you are using 60 inch flex track, you will only need a few. If, like Ralph, you are using 1 foot lengths of track because you were given a truckload of it, then you might want to go another way.
I don’t think that 18 gauge wire will support a large scale layout. It is not even recommended for a 0 gauge layout. 14 gauge is the smallest that is recommended to 0 gauge. 18 gauge might work for H0, I don’t know. I think that you will be disappointed if you try to use the 18 gauge.
Now, as to how to connect the wires to the track… Some folks solder the copper wire to the underside of the track. That certainly gives a good mechanical and electrical bond, but if the track is already down, that is probably a non starter. Hillmans, and probably Split Jaw, makes a clamp that you can use to attach the wire to the track. So does (did?) LGB. I’ve used all three. Here is an example of the Hillman. As you can see, if you use Hillman or Split Jaw you could attach the wire directly to the regular track joiner.
You can try soldering the wire to the Aristo track joiners. That might work. Hillman even has over the joiner rail clamps.
Or, you could look into R/C with Battery control… Did I say that out loud? 
Good luck.