Okay I’ll look for that gauge of wire. So if I use the split jaw rail joiners with power connectors do I attach the wire from track piece to track piece or do I run that wire from the track to my power supply directly. I understand attaching it to the track just not the wire layout exactly.
Think of a catenary. That is essentially what a buss is. It carries both positive and negative current in two wires either buried under the track (if you think of it ahead of time) or alongside of the track (if, like me, you didn’t think ahead). The wire stretches the entire length of the powered track(s). Sidings can be powered from drop wires.
At selected intervals, defined by track connections, not distance, wires are dropped from the buss to the track(s). I used three track connections on my layout, and had no discernible voltage drop.
Connections can be made by soldering, but most folks use suitcase connectors. You can find them at the big box store, too. Just make sure that you get the one sized for 12 gauge buss with 18 gauge drops, like the one shown. Then just connect those wires to the tracks.
Run all feeders to your power supply directly…You may use a terminal block (easier).
Just my opinion…I don’t think this is your problem. It may fix it, but it also may mask the real issue.
How big is your layout? You say small, how small?
A “small” layout should not have the issues you are describing unless the connections between sections are poor. If this is the case you will just be adding more feeders as other connections decay.
What is your power supply? 1 amp? 5 amp?
You are running outdoors, your connections need to be perfect and sealed with conductive or dielectric grease. Power connections need to be soldered and sealed (I solder directly to a brass rail-clamp and then seal the joint in RTV). Power supply wire needs to be of reasonable gauge (I use a good quality speaker wire, all copper).
My 2 cents…
Start with your joiners, make sure they are clean metal to clean metal. Make them tight. Seal them with grease appied prior to clamping. Solder your power leads to the track connector and use a sturdy gauge supply wire. Use a transformer with reasonable power and voltage output.
What I do…
I have a small layout with one power feed to each loop. I use AML rail-clamps with a liberal smattering of USA conductive lube. My power supplys are Crest dual-switching 10amp with a Revo throttle.
Good luck!
Not saying Steve’s idea won’t work, just that it may mask the real problem.
Oh I get it now. Thanks, Steve! I’ll give it a try and let you know how it goes. Mark, my layout is roughly 23’ in length by 13’ in width. I have 53’ of track and I use a standard Bachmann 1 amp controller with the CRE-55470 Train Engineer. Does it still count as small?
“Small” is a relative term, my layout is also small. 
Just my opinion, and only mine…Others may differ.
I cannot be certain which Bachmann one you have but I can not think of a suitable Bachmann transformer for outdoor use. You can get higher output power supplies for reasonable cost. Most will tell you that a layout requires 10amps, again my opinion; this is not necessarily true for you at this time. That said, 1 amp is certainly not enough.
I am not being “snarky”, I would re-review your connections and try to borrow a more powerful supply and see what happens.
Have fun!
Caleb, that Bachmann 1 amp power supply just might be the source of your problems. It just doesn’t have enough amperage to run the locomotive with sound if there is the slightest bit of voltage drop through questionable track connections.
I think that the solution is going to be for you to invest in a new power supply, like the Crest 10 amp or similar that Mark V uses. It doesn’t cost all that much more than a 5 amp one, and will definitely give you more flexibility when it comes to running multiple locomotives, DCC, and so on as you expand your pike.
It goes without saying that you need clean connections, connective grease is strongly recommended.
The buss system may be overkill, but eliminates potential problems down the road, and makes the addition of DCC very easy, if you want to go that way. Hillmans/Split Jaw rail connectors create a strong mechanical and electrical connection in your track. Neither of the things mentioned in this paragraph are really necessary. You can do both, one, or none, and still be successful.
I think that the key is going to be a bigger power supply, clean connections and connective grease. The down side of doing just that is that you will probably have to expect to clean and re-grease your connections at least once a year.
Or, you can join the battery Mafia, and save yourself a lot of headaches. I said that out loud again, didn’t I?
Edit: Yes, your layout still qualifies as small, though far too large for a 1 amp power supply.
I kinda figured there might be a problem with using the power supply Bachmann provides. I’m in the process of cleaning the rail joiners right now and I’m going to upgrade my power supply first and see if anything improves as well as use some conductive grease. Thanks again guys for the info! This site has been very helpful.