I want to add RC to my live steam forney. I know nothing about RC. I want something simple and not expensive. I just want to be able to control the throttle in forward. Im not worried about using a second servo for the forward and backward. What do I need and where is a good place to get this stuff. If someone can guide me on what I will need and where to get it, itwould be great. Thanks
First thing; forget about 49 or 75MHz. Not worth the bother, especially now that you can buy a complete 2.4 GHz system for under $100. You need 4 basic components and some hardware… Transmitter - I chose the Spektrum DX5e, but there are now several similar radios that cost less -
(http://www.spektrumrc.com/Content/ProductStatic/SPM5510/images/features.jpg)
Receiver - Gets mounted somewhere in the loco, so needs to be small. The Transmitter and Receiver usually are packaged together. My DX5e came with the AR600 receiver which is a little big. The park flier radios are smaller, like the knock off Spektrums out of China for $20 or less…
(http://www.targethobby.com/bmz_cache/e/e7eb1936c783ad898ef3f3253d963f33.image.150x104.jpg)
Servo - Two things you need to know: Mini and Metal Gears. Mini so it will fit somewhere, and metal gears so they wont be affected as much by the heat. I picked a low cost HiTec model and made my own linkage from brass rod.
(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Servo640.JPG)
Power Source - The Receiver needs a source of between 5 and 9 volts - 6 is just fine as provided by 4 AA batteries or 7.4 as provided by two LiIon cells. I used AA and bashed up a holder that fit in my water tank with the servo from two 2-cell holders
(http://lsc.cvsry.com/BattBox640.JPG)
For hardware you will need a way to connect the servo to the control on the loco. If you want throttle only you can buy a lever that replaces the knob from Accucraft. I chose to control only the Johnson Bar which controls both direction and speed on my Shay. I’m not certain this works on your Forney, but it might. To link to the Johnson Bar I removed the stand from the loco and connected the rod from my servo directly to the valve.
(http://lsc.cvsry.com/JBarLink640.JPG)
My entire install is documented here: http://www.cvsry.com/ShayRC-P1.html Feel free to call me any evening to ask questions. If you don’t have my number just shoot an email and I’ll send it to you…
Thanks Jon. That helps a lot. I came across this site http://www.hobbypartz.com/ If I were to order from here what do you think would work best and be most affordable? There are so many different brands ect…
Shawn,
As Jon has explained there are a lot of brands now in the 2.4 GHz frequency. 2.4 GHz solves all the interference problems that older AM and even FM systems used to suffer from when used in Live Steam locos.
Most of them are pretty good value and work reliably.
One thing to beware of is the number of AA cells required for the TX. All the better ones now use just four. Some brands still use 8 x cells which is just extra weight to tote around.
Whilst the DX5e is a little more expensive to buy, the clone RX’s are very low cost and work just fine.
I have had great success here in Australia with Planet Twister equipment which has been available locally for some time.
I believe they are now available in the USA from http://www.hobby-lobby.com/planet_5_radio_2.4ghz_transmitter_1034249_prd1.htm
I too use low cost Hi-Tec servos. Specifically HS65MG and HS85MG.
If you ever decide to experiment with battery R/C you can use the same TX and add another RX, ESC and batteries in a loco for a low cost battery R/C conversion.
TonyWalsham said:
Shawn, As Jon has explained there are a lot of brands now in the 2.4 GHz frequency. 2.4 GHz solves all the interference problems that older AM and even FM systems used to suffer from when used in Live Steam locos. Most of them are pretty good value and work reliably. One thing to beware of is the number of AA cells required for the TX. All the better ones now use just four. Some brands still use 8 x cells which is just extra weight to tote around. Whilst the DX5e is a little more expensive to buy, the clone RX's are very low cost and work just fine. I have had great success here in Australia with Planet Twister equipment which has been available locally for some time. I believe they are now available in the USA from http://www.hobby-lobby.com/planet_5_radio_2.4ghz_transmitter_1034249_prd1.htm I too use low cost Hi-Tec servos. Specifically HS65MG and HS85MG.If you ever decide to experiment with battery R/C you can use the same TX and add another RX, ESC and batteries in a loco for a low cost battery R/C conversion.
Tony Thanks for the info and the link. I think I will be ordering that one. The price looks good to me. Im looking at servos on the same site. ere is tge link to the metal gear ones. What would work best for what I want. Too many to choose from http://www.hobby-lobby.com/metal_gear_servos_262_ctg.htm
Tony I found the HS65 servo. Order is in. Thanks
Shawn,
If you need any help, I was big time into RC cars. Let me know.
Nico
I also have alot of radios and receivers laying around that you could have.
Nico
Hey Nico - Servo based R/C is pretty much the same in cars, boats, planes and trains so all of your experience would apply. But when you can buy a new 2.4 Ghz RX/TX pair for $32 (found via Shawn’s link) the old AM and FM radios aren’t worth the space they take up in the trash can 
I tried an AM 49MHz system in my Shay and it was a nightmare. Switched to 2.4GHz Spread Spectrum and life is good!
Shawn - You can’t go wrong with that HS65 servo. I hope you got the MG version. The plastic gears will work, but won’t last as long.
Shawn said:I saw you ordered a servo, did you order the radio too? If not, the FlySky Air Control 2.4 GHz on sale for $32 looks like a deal http://www.hobbypartz.com/fsaircontrol.html
Thanks Jon. That helps a lot. I came across this site http://www.hobbypartz.com/ If I were to order from here what do you think would work best and be most affordable? There are so many different brands ect....
EDIT to update: Tony mentioned to look at how many batteries. The FlySky does unfortunately take 8 AA batteries.
Jon I did get the metal gear. Price for all was under $100. Just what I wanted.
Nico thanks im sure i will be calling you and Jon for help if I get stuck. Lee is also down the road from me and hes good with that stuff as well. From what Jon posted it seems pretty stright forward. I also ordered the arm from accucraft to replace the plastic knobs. The tender in the back is a good size so I shouldnt have any problems getting things to fit.
Jon I got the one Tony recomended. It comes with the micro receiver.
Cool. This will be a fun project. When you get a few extra clams order a spare receiver or tow and you can put full RC in your locos 
Jon Radder said:I was thinking about that Jon. :) I have three engines set up for battery power already. Shouldnt be hard to finish it off with a receiver.
Cool. This will be a fun project. When you get a few extra clams order a spare receiver or tow and you can put full RC in your locos :)
Shawn, as well as the extra RX’s you will need an ESC for each loco.
Del Tapparo and I both make suitable ESC’s for most locos.
I make a PnP ESC for Bachmann and AristoCraft locos fitted with the standard PnP socket.
Sean,
You can also connect a servo to the potensiometer you are using and control the speed that way.
Apparently your Forney can be controlled via the Johnson bar alone. Here is one way it has been done…
(http://www.mylargescale.com/1stclass/DaveHottmann/forneyrc.jpg)
Oops, I should have read the text. There are two servos in this picture. The bottom one controls the throttle.
I got the servo and controler in the nmail for the RC conversion. I also took off the plastic knobs on the steam engine and put the nicer metal levers on. What size battery will work with the servo? Its a Hi Tec HS-65MG it is 6 volts. Also to connect the servo to the throttle what seems to work best? I have plenty of room since the parts are very small.
I know the Planet RX’s may not work properly with 5 x fully charged NiMh or Ni-Cd batteries.
Use 4 x dry or rechargeable cells. 5 x cells will provide too much for some RX’s to work properly.
What Tony said. 4 good Alkaline AA cells are small and will last a long time.