F = F scale; what the NMRA terms 1:20.3
n = narrow gauge
2 1/2 (or 30 or some other number) = the gauge of the track, expressed in inches or feet, whichever the user chooses. Typically it’s feet, though “2 1/2” and “30” seem to be used interchangeably.
Later,
K
All these cars look great!
I use rebar wire for my truss rods. It’s .057" diameter, and can be easily threaded to 0-80 in the event I want to make them quasi-functional. It’s a little soft when you work with it, but once on the model and stretched, it’s plenty durable.
For brake rigging, I use .033" Mig welding wire. It’s good and stiff stuff (too stiff, sometimes). I bought a spool of a gazillion feet of it a while back from Harbor Freight for about the same price as two packs of .032" K&S brass (about 10 feet). I use the brass when I’ve got to make lots of complex bends really close together like for grab irons loops or similar, but the Mig wire is great for everything else.
Later,
K
Ron Tremblay said:
What a great job, Ken. Might have to build a few next winter.
If this frigid air stays around, I may just try another one this winter…
…winking…
Ken Brunt said:
Ron Tremblay said:
What a great job, Ken. Might have to build a few next winter.
If this frigid air stays around, I may just try another one this winter…
Last I talked to Phil, he just about had the kit inventory replenished. I purchased one of the PNG MoW caboose kits back in early Dec., that is patiently waiting for me to pick up. That will be the next project, if winter continues to hang around… No sign of Spring on the near horizon. 
Here are the ‘modifications’ I make on PNG kits. All of the white metals parts get the flash (very little) removed then submerged in gun bluing until they turn a gun metal gray. Rinse the parts in clean water to stop the chemical reaction. All of the brass parts get put in a container with lacquer thinner (to remove any coating), rinsed, dried and put in the gun bluing solution also. The ‘brass’ color changes to a dull brown/gray.
Railroad safety rules did not permit roof walk saddles and roof walks to be painted. I take the roof walk saddles and roof walk boards and soak them with a diluted solution of black india ink and 90% isopropyl alcohol. This gives the wood a real nice ‘weathered’ wood appearance.
Jerry, Thanks for the class:)
You’re welcome Ron! Just so the folks back east don’t think ole man winter is just singling them out - it was -1 deg. and snowed 3 inches last night in Colorado Springs. SO much for ‘global warming’
Just curious about the “bluing” process. Why do you do that? Is it so the paint adheres better?
Jake Smith said:
Just curious about the “bluing” process. Why do you do that? Is it so the paint adheres better?
Good question Jake. No, those parts are not painted - just blued. To my eye, it gives the parts the most correct appearance to real cast iron parts. Just for the record, D&RGW narrow gauge cars never had those parts painted.
I need to elaborate more… This is another ‘modification’ - I start with the PNG frame straight out of the box and apply the india ink/alcohol wash to the entire body frame. Next, do the same application of the wash to the floor deck - top, bottom, sides and ends. While you have the wash out, do the roof walk saddles and roof walk boards. Set all of those parts aside and let them dry overnight. I use a piece of door screen stretched over a 1x2 wood frame about 12" x 18" to hold the parts and allow air to circulate. If there are doors on the kit that open and allow for the inside walls to be seen, then I use Minwax oil-based Golden Oak stain and carefully apply it to the inside wall panels, corner posts and roof trusses.
Assemble the body frame, car ends and sides. Do not put the roof trusses on just yet. I like to use Titebond III for all wood to wood joints and then pin all of the joints with a 23 gauge pin nailer. Set the assembly aside and let it dry over night.
Next day, turn the assemble over and install all of the brake rigging, reservoir etc. and the truss rods. I always run a used tooth brush over the gun blued parts (white metal and brass) to remove any residue. For attaching dissimilar materials (wood to metal), I prefer to use Eclectic, UV6800 adhesive. UV6800 is ultraviolet resistant and can be found in the local Wally store.
Next step, glue the roof trusses in place on the walls - let dry. Glue the roof panels on the trusses and I like to pin nail the panels to the roof trusses - let dry.
That sounds like a lot of extra steps, but it really makes a difference to the end product appearance! What the heck - you are only going to build this model one time!
That really looks good Ken. The weather better warmup soon so we can see it in action.
Very nice, Ken. Very nicely done…
Shawn (napkin builder) Viggiano said:
That really looks good Ken. The weather better warmup soon so we can see it in action.
Yea, that and get it painted…
Thanks, Stan.
Had some warmer weather and got the car into the paint shop…
“A” end
“B” end
side
roof, sans roofwalk
Paint looks great Ken, What’s next decals?
Yup, decals, couplers, gladhands, roof walks.
Steady progress being maintained Ken. Coming along well.
Looks good, Ken…
One side done…3 more to go…
Cool…
Nice work Ken