Large Scale Central

A Track Spiker's Question

Track and Trestles
#1

It’s a tedious job … seems to take forever as you slowly move along the rails. Eight spikes per tie … eleven ties per foot – that’s 544 spikes in each 6-foot long section of track. And the turnouts are even worse … up to sixteen spikes per tie in places.

Set the gauge, clamp the rail, drive the spikes home, check the gauge, unclamp the rail, move to the next tie, and repeat. Over and over … again and again … at a rate Mr. Shakespeare would describe as, “creeps in this petty pace from day to day.”

Hand spiked rail – why do we do it? Are we masochists? After all, no one can even see it from normal viewing distances. Even I have to admit that the sections of track made with Llagas Creek tie strips look more realistic than the hand spiked ones. So I’m back to the original question – WHY? Am I the only crazy person here?

#2

You don’t have to be crazy to hang out here, Bob, but it sure helps. Have you sought professional help? :slight_smile:

#3

I had to do it to get the look on a bridge track I’m building. I bought the “spiker” tool thinking it would help but it doesn’t work with the ME metal tie plates that I’m using. I bought the spike insertion pliers after bending too many into these tuff composite ties I have.
For me, I can only do a few each day because of my condition. So it took me a long time to do an eight foot track. I still have to go back and add the guard rails. For most of my visitors they won’t even notice the extra effort. It’s something extra to help me enjoy the bridge. I sure hope it holds up for a few years at least! It sure feels like I punished myself!

#4

8 spikes per tie? Oh gee. I cheated and only did 4 spikes per tie when I tried that. I should have come up with some plates, then it would have looked better.

Bob, just take your meds, you will be fine. I know I am now. :wink:

(sounds of laughter from the other room)

#5

All I hand spike are the switches and that’s because it’s cheaper and I can build them to fit anywhere. I also like stub switches, both 2 and 3 way, they’re a lot easier to build and I know of no one that makes them. I just like the challenge…:wink:

#6

I’m also handlaying my track for my 1:17n30 railway. A six foot section takes me about one hour and a beer to complete on my workbench. My railway is a backwoods affairs and the track reflects this in that the ties aren’t uniform in appearance in length, width or thickness. Ties mostly are at a 90 degree angle to the rails, often as not they are slightly canted. Spacing is eyeballed. Four spikes per rail is enough too.

#7

Never used more than 4 spikes per tie, I have seen many cases where the big guys do the same, tie plate with 4 holes but only 2 spikes diagonally opposite. If you are using code 332 rail, it is so stiff that in reality even spikes in every tie is over kill except for appearance sake. On one of my early sections the ties all rotted out to the point where there was only one tie every 6 to 8 inches that were still holding the spikes and I could still run trains over it without derailments. After over a decade of hand spiking I have decided that from now on only switches and dual gauged sections will be hand spiked as I was beginning to think I would not live long enough to see the track work done if I did it all by hand.

#8

Ken Brunt said:

All I hand spike are the switches and that’s because it’s cheaper and I can build them to fit anywhere. I also like stub switches, both 2 and 3 way, they’re a lot easier to build and I know of no one that makes them. I just like the challenge…:wink:

Some of us are sicker than others… :slight_smile:

#9

I love the look of hand-laid track, but–yeah–it’s time consuming. My initial plan on my line was to hand-lay everything. Then we found out that Allison was pregnant with our first kid, so that notion went out the window pretty quickly. If I were to “do it again” (and I might!) I’d use a system similar to the “staple” method my dad first used when we first started hand-laying the track on his layout. 35 years later, the stuff is still every bit as solid as when new. (Alas, we can’t get creosote for the ties anymore.)

That having been said, there’s a 4’ long bridge span that I haven’t yet re-done for exactly that reason–I don’t want to have to spike the darned track. And that’s only 4’! Somehow I don’t see me re-doing the rest of my track any time soon.

I have found, however, that when I cut my ties, I cut them thinner than the spikes are long so they stick out the bottom. That keeps them from being pushed out from below by the elements. I’ve done a switch like that and a few other sections, and I don’t have to touch the spikes. They’re in and not moving anywhere. Can’t say that about my other bridges with thicker ties. That’s an annual chore pushing the ties back down.

Later,

K

#10

Kevin, do you bend the spikes over a bit so they don’t back out, or does the fact that they just stick out the bottom of the tie do the trick?

#11

Steve Featherkile said:

Kevin, do you bend the spikes over a bit so they don’t back out, or does the fact that they just stick out the bottom of the tie do the trick?

Think of the spike end(point) as a wedge. When the tie swells from moisture there’s no wedge to push against when the spike is all the wat through. No need really to bend over the end.

#12

Steve, Ken paid attention in Physics Class. :wink:

#13

Ken Brunt said:

Steve Featherkile said:

Kevin, do you bend the spikes over a bit so they don’t back out, or does the fact that they just stick out the bottom of the tie do the trick?

Think of the spike end(point) as a wedge. When the tie swells from moisture there’s no wedge to push against when the spike is all the wat through. No need really to bend over the end.

So there is a method to the madness, then. Good to know. Thanks.

#14

I did it when I was younger, so I could say I did! But I only used two spikes per rail on 6/8 inch deep ties. Did the same for Llagas Creek code 259 aluminum switches.

#15

Ken’s got it. Just watch the fingers, as the pointed end still will easily find its way into your fingertips should you need to handle the track.

With the “staple” method, the tie is pre-drilled, and staples inserted from the bottom. The ends then get bent over the base of the rail, holding everything in place.

Later,

K

#16

Have you considered intervention?

#17

(for indoors) if i want wooden ties look as “natural” as the LGB ties look, i have to file and rasp them a lot.
so i only use wooden ties for bridges.
four short nails, no plates, pliers a small hammer, much time and a lot of funny words do the job.

so far i made just one five foot bridge and one eleven and a half foot trestle.
none of the visitors i had so far did mention details. the standard comment was: “did you do this whole thing by yourself?”

and even myself i normally do not look at the details, but at whole the construction.

even if i knew for sure, that i got the years left to spike some 400-plus feet of track, i wouldn’t do it.

i am not counting rivets, why should i count spikes?

#18

Korm,

As long as you are having fun and the final product pleases you, is what really matters.

#19

So maybe we need a CNC track spiker?

#20

Joe Zullo said:

Korm,

As long as you are having fun and the final product pleases you, is what really matters.

oh yes, it does. from the armchair modelling phase on, untill the day i break it down for the next layout.