Wow now its looking like a critter. As for painting, Krylon should be fine. I have used everything from acrylics, Model flex and krylon with no issues on my live steamers. Just make sure you use some fine sandpaper on the brass. It will give the paint something to hold onto. My personal opinion is weather the brass and see what it looks like. I think it would look really cool.
I used the Scalecoat for metal to paint several brass engines in HO using the oven drying method and found the finish to be very durable. Non baked finishes would wear through from handling an get chips and I did not have that issue with the baked on Scalecoat. I think I would consider a vinegar bath to lightly etch the brass before painting, give the paint some tooth as such to adhere to. Just my 2 cents worth.
Thanks for the tips, guys. I like the vinegar bath idea, as well as cleaning it thoroughly first.
Gary, any kind of vinegar?
Meanwhile, I’ve been thinking through the roof.
I first cut a pattern out of paper to get an idea of how big of a brass piece I would need.
Then cut the brass to size.
Next up was trying to bend it into place. I finally put the cab on it’s side and used a hammer to shape the roof.
It probably still needs a few more whacks, but it is almost ready to solder in place.
Here’s a couple of shots of the roof just setting in place.
Bruce Chandler said:
Next up was trying to bend it into place. I finally put the cab on it’s side and used a hammer to shape the roof.
That shows how good a solderin job you did…
Do you really want to solder the roof on? How about some pins soldered to the roof and some pockets soldered to the walls. Then you could get it off easily if need be. I have found that if I were to make it unremovable, the first thing I would need to do is remove it!
Also if you use a good metal primer (available in the shake can at your local home improvement center) it will help your finish coat adhere to the metal better. Back in the day we used to wash with soap and water to remove any oils from the metal or oil from your hands, and dry thoroughly. Using your wife’s hair dryer is allowed.
I like Lou’s idea of keeping the roof removable. I would think it will limit possibilities of detail and power and control.
BUT
knowing Bruce, he has a plan.
I used white vinegar Bruce. Seems to me it can be had with different amounts of acid content and I chose the highest, maybe the kind used for canning but not sure.
Actually after the vinegar comment was made by Gary. I remembered he told me the same thing. I used plain old cider vinegar and did scuff it with steel wool before painting. I soaked it in a bath of vinegar but I added about 1/2 cup of baking soda to pot before soaking it . I’m still miffed on the Scale coat paint and I understand what the manufacturer and Gary have stated but I had NO luck with it drying in the heat?
Here’s the deal. The roof will NOT be removable. Too hard to make that happen.
However, the cab itself will be removable. 6 screws will hold it onto the chassis. Pretty easy, as I have put a 1/8 x 1/2" brass bar on the sides - easy to tap into it.
And…I did notice that I have some Scalecoat Southern Green as well as the Erie Lackawanna Yellow…decisions…
We await your choice!
Well, now that the Sludeworks is complete, it’s time to go back to the critter.
As you may recall, the body had reinforcing beams soldered across the top, and the roof was bent to shape.
Today I started soldering the roof in place; quite tedious as I had to make sure that the roof was flat against each beam and try to solder while I’m holding it down. I could have used 3 more hands.
But, I’m soon done…lots of cleanup this time.
Next, I drilled and tapped for 6 4-40 screws to hold the body to the frame. I added some manufacturer plates and I’m almost ready to go!
Go with the Green, it’ll match the other boxcab.
Do the screws go up through the bottom to hold the cab in place?
Yep…it you look at the door opening, you can see one of the screws coming up. One in each corner, one in each door.
Green does sound interesting…have to see what decals I currently have.
Allis-Chalmers orange is a good color, too.
I agree with Ken… Should be Green to match your other boxcab…
Awesome work, looks like an expensive brass import.
Where’d you get the builder’s plate?
Thanks guys.
Ray, those builder’s plates are from Trackside Details. One nice benefit is that they are brass and could be soldered in place.
You’re getting pretty good at this soldering stuff. Looks great!
That is really looking sharp. You’re pushing me to rethink my need for a resistance unit. I really like what you have put together here.
Good looking work! Great to see step by step construction with photos.
May I ask what weight it is.
Andrew
Sandbar & Mudcrab Railway